Looking for opinions on assembly lube/grease manufacturer recommendations. Just a ton of opinions on the internet but many seem to be from people that have built just a couple of engines. If you care to share more detail that would be great. Wondering if different lubes for different applications such as bearings, cam and lifters, piston cylinder walls, rocker shaft and tips, etc. Really any areas that require lubrication. Also looking for advice if it matters if the engine is going to sit for several months or if it will be fired right up after assembly. Obviously a good engine rebuilder will have their own procedures and process but if I decided to complete the assembly myself wanted some advice from the Buick community. I know there are many good engine builders on this forum such as JW, Doc, Tom and others and I trust this board immensely vs. general internet info. I will be working on a nailhead if it matters. As always, thank you so much in advance for your thoughts.
Sta-Lube makes an engine assembly lube which is a little bit thicker. It's what I'm using on my extended time build
I use several things. Clevite, Joe Gibb's/Driven, for bearings, cam, lifter faces, cups and rockers, Driven Break in oil, for pins, Castrol Dex/MERC fluid for rings, pistons and cylinder walls. Packed petroleum in the oil pump. I like the assembly lubes as they have some cling during rotating to degree cam and such, and some will be flushed during oil prime, but enough is still present so there is no "dry" friction in most cases. I think older designed engines are not as finicky as newer and very close tolerance builds with regard to assembly lube. But, it's available, and only a few dollars and some time to use it, so I use it, just because benefit, no matter how small, lands in the "plus column". (Especially with long time assembly and/or storage before break-in run.) I did assemble a pretty hot 330 Olds, using nothing but Castrol 20W-50 back in the 70s. Dunked everything poured everywhere and even added about a tablespoon in each cylinder before firing it up. Smoked like a 'sqeeter truck, for about 30 seconds at a labored 2000, then cleared up strong to 3000, ran for 1/2 hour, let it cool a few hours, and it fired right back up and sang. One of the best running engines I ever had. I used Rhode's lifters and it idled about 1100 RPM and sounded like a sewing machine.
I'm a Lubriplate guy myself. Except on flat tappet cams I coat the lobes and bottom of the lifters with an actual cam assembly lube. All the cam manufacturers have cam lube, and I'm sure they're all about the same quality as they don't want their parts failing.
Lubriplate here too,...I use it on flat tappet cams also, .even with dual springs ...just light oil on walls and skirts,..marvel mystery for example
Cam. main and rod bearings, piston pins-- Clevite bearing-guard... a high viscoisity lube, red in color, stays in place. lots of this on the cam thrust flange to the front of the block a 455. Cam manufacturer supplied lube for lobe and lifter faces of a flat tappet cam. Joe Gibbs BR-30 for roller cams, and soak the roller lifters for at least an hour before assembly. If the cam did not come with a heavy paste type extreme pressure lube, I then will use the Joe Gibbs assembly lube on those areas, and then add the liquid type lube that is often supplied by companies like comp cams, over the top of the heavy lube. Lucas assembly lube or Joe Gibbs assembly lube for all other wear areas such as rocker wear pads, valve tips and pushrods... oil on the rockers and shafts. JW
This CMD #3 is the absolute stickiest, thickest lube available. Dart & Manley sell & recommend it plus others. I used it for years as a carbide dead center lube, o.d. grinding on machine tool spindle journals. Better than white lead. The old real tin style tube seems to be the best formula.
many of the motors I build do indeed sit for awhile before use, so, I like clevite assembly lube for bearings, fairly thick, does not run out, and sticky . for cam /lifters, I love the green stuff from Lucas oil, has moly in it,, and designed for , as they state, "high pressure / high load " I use it on lifters,rockers, push rods, valve tip, etc
I read awhile back that engine oil is not recommended for cyl. walls and rings. This last build of mine I used WD40 on the walls and rings, seemed to make sense to me, Then I read the recommendation from the rings I used (Total Seal regular rings) and they suggested WD40. I guess my logic was correct for once
I use Marvel Mistery Oil on the Rings and cylinder walls. Picked that up from very successful local engine builder years ago. Worst thing you can do is over lubricate the rings, they need to bite and break in on startup. CMD 3 is my lube of choice for the main bolts, and is the standard supplied lube for all Molnar rods. I like it for head bolts, but the issue is that it melts out with heat, and makes a mess, so I recently went back to the ARP lube.. JW
