So I am finishing up my restoration and I have an issue with the power windows working with the key on or off. I have changed my pw relay but that isn't fixing it. The relay will get warm not hot to the touch if I leave it plugged in. So of course it is unplugged. I changed the relay out with another new one and both act the same way. Any idea where I should start?
Here’s my power window connections for a 70 GS which I also listed in this thread a while back https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?t...onnections-at-fuse-block.365308/#post-3155854 Pink wire goes to a black and yellow jumper which goes into fuse box on the second from bottom (AC). The Yellow wire then goes to capacitor that is mounted to e-brake pedal. The orange wire connects to the fuse box at the top.
Even though it say's ignition, make sure that you don't have battery power at that fuse box terminal.
So I have all the wires in the pictures correct. BUT there is power on the orange black wire all the time. Not sure were to look, checked the wires on the starter they are correct.
I was referring to the terminal on the fuse box. Make sure that it is only hot with the key in run. By any chance did you install a new harness or fuse box?
No I didn't change the harness or fuse box. Drove the car for a couple of years before I started the resto and no issues beforehand. It does have power on that orange and black wire in the fuse box at the top beside the circuit breaker all the time.
Is the pink wire at the fuse box only hot in run? Is it possible that the wires are in the wrong terminals in the junction by the left pillar? Is the ignition switch out of adjustment?
So just finishing checking and I miss spoke before it doesn't work with the key on. Both relay I got are the wrong one, they are normally closed relays and I need a normally open relay. Does anyone know where I can get one? I got one from classic industries and the other from fucsick(which got if from parts place) both wrong
Hey @Ron Kaufman @ToddsGS has the correct parts for our Buicks. Here is a link to his website and the power window relay. https://www.stage1restoration.com/product/relay-power-window/
I think my first step would be to remove the fuse and see if there is any voltage still showing in the circuit. If not, I would then take my trusty meter and meter the grounds. a high resistance ground can do all sorts of funny things to electrical circuits. Chase down any stray voltages or high resistance grounds. Any ground that have move than 1 ohm at the connection point, or about 5 or 6 at the far end of the circuit would be suspect. The relay is a great idea as well. If there is voltage out of it when the vehicle is off, that wold be telling. Good luck, electrical gremlins can be a pain in the butt to track.
So first I want to say that I am no way saying anything bad about the following supplier, I use them all mainly the parts place or StageWon but wherever it takes me to get this project done. I got 2 relays that I bought at different times because I thought maybe the first one was wrong, so the picture looked different on the second on so I thought it would be different but they both ended up being OER Part#HR614 - same as the one at Stage1 pictured above and they weren't correct. I got one of them from classic industries and one from Fusick(which got it from the parts place lol) they have a 30 day return policy so maybe I can send one of them back. Anyway they were normally closed relays and I need a normally open relay. The right one I got from Heartbeat City part number ELC-1315 , just put in operation and problem is officially fixed. Hopes this helps the next person. Also thank you to everyone who commented, much appreciation.
