My original resistor wire- from the firewall to the coil- burnt out. I then decided to go with a Pertonix unit. 1. I removed the spade connector, with the original resistor wire, and replaced it with a standard wire. Picture 1 2. In picture 2 is the NEW wire, with 12.37 volts, going to the yellow starter wire, the + side of the coil, and to the red wire to the pertronix unit. 3. Picture 3 is the tach wire. No need to worry about that. My gap is correct on the Pertronix- and I have NO SPARK. I then removed the Pertronix, replaced the points, then added an in line, ceramic ballast resistor…. NO SPARK. WTH am I missing here????
Hi George, IMO most of the wires in your pictures are of dubious integrity at best, including the high voltage cable that connects the coil to the distributor cap. It's tough to pinpoint the exact problem from here. I hope you get the issue sorted out. I think the crusher route may be a bit extreme.
I would guess that the wire probably loses voltage when you're cranking the car. Check the meter when it's cranking over. Second guess is the terminals on that coil look like they are from the titanic! Clean those up, there is no way you're getting a good connection.
I also don't like the high voltage wire coming off the coil. Look at that insulation? What is left of it? Try a better wire there?
Back to basics: Test light- put it on the negative of the coil.. crank engine.. Does it flash on and off distinctly? The test light flashes when the primary circuit in the coil is open. This is because the circuit is then completed thru the light. If no light, you have no power.- test light to positive of the coil.. if no light, remove wire from coil and see if it lights.. if no, trace back to fuse box and find open circuit. If it lights now, then either the coil is shorted to ground, or the points are closed. You can hook up a temporary wire from the battery positive to the coil positive to verify your findings at this point. it should start and run if power to the coil is the problem. If test light Illuminates, but no flash, then points are not breaking the primary circuit, or the condensor is inop. Visual inspect points opening and if ok, replace the condenser. Test, and report back.. JW PS.. when I was in trade school, and learning engine no start diagnosis, we were not allowed to use a DVOM, until we have completed the simple test light checks. Too many folks head for the meter first, and skip the most important, simple steps listed above.
Petronix always go bad. The MH system is much better and uses factory wiring. Replace the engine and forward light harness!!! No car of this age should be using the original harness. They are all cooked!!!
Dave… I agree, I do have to replace the wiring… I just want to be able to make sure this thing runs and that I don’t have either faulty points or a faulty pertronix unit…
As has been mentioned, have someone watch the volt meter while you are cranking the engine over to make sure the 12 volts is still on the + side of the coil. On old wiring like you have, Pertronix recommends using a relay to get good battery voltage to the coil. The Pertronix Flamethrower Coil draws 3 times the current of the factory coil. If you go that route, here is the Pertronix instructions for installing a relay to feed the coil. http://www.pertronix.com.au/assets/pdf/Pertronix_Power_Relay_Installation_Instructions.pdf I do realize that not having the relay isn't what's causing your "no spark" problem but just wanted to mention it for your consideration. I just installed the Pertronix III in my GS and it's miles better than the single wire conversion that was in the distributor before. My car idles better and plugs stay cleaner with 45,000 volts firing them.
Run the red wire directly to the coil. You don't need the yellow wire. Negative side on coil to the dizzy. "2. In picture 2 is the NEW wire, with 12.37 volts, going to the yellow starter wire, the + side of the coil, and to the red wire to the pertronix unit." Did you bypass the coil? Which Pertonix unit?
Well, I have my brother and my son come down today just for more eyes on this… As maybe I’ll overlook something… And yup I certainly did. My wire connections were not the greatest as I just wanted to make sure the car ran… And lo and behold I did not have good contacts on my coil. As soon as I fix that, the car started right up and ran awesome… more to follow
Dang it George, why did you have to fix it? I was getting ready to buy a plane ticket to your town to rescue your car from the crusher and get a salvage title in my name!
Ha…. Ha…. Haaaaaaa. I used a few jumper wires (with alligator clips) to connect everything… had spark at the points… as soon as I put the distributor cap on, there was nothing. Using my test light (Jim), I tracked down intermittent connectivity between the clips, the coil, the wiring… once those were corrected, it started right up. Today is soldering and making solid connections… i may be a tooth off on the distributor…
