I would really scrutinize the slot for burrs. Maybe fine rattail file or fine sandpaper around appropriate round rod, to eliminate possible gouging, etc. while bushing is "working" in the slot....
Ima bet on the steel in the right lane, vs the aloo-mini-um guy in the left/loser lane... Hard anodize surface will fail when in constant contact with steel/carbon steel, with or without lubrication, and once the anodized surface is compromised, rapid wear from galling will occur. Bronze is superior as it provides a bit of "self lubrication" from wear and will result in both the bronze and steel faces, wearing at about the same "stable" rate, sufficient for the life cycle expected of the parts. Rubber bushing in the application has an inherent ability to be wear resistant, and only succumbs due to time, heat, oxidation/ozone and other environmental factors that reduce plasticizers in the rubber leading to breakdown.
Hardcoat anodized coatings generally have a Rockwell C hardness ranging from 50 to 70, depending on the specific process and alloy used. 70 Rockwell surpasses well beyond heated carbon steel (Rockwell C in the 62 to 64 Scale). In fact, most camshafts and lifters only reach a Rockwell hardness of 50 to 55 in the Rockwell C scale. Don't know where you think Hard anodize surface will fail when in constant contact with steel/carbon steel, with or without lubrication. Even carbon steels (not heat-treated high carbon tool steel) aren't even measured in Rockwell C scale. These mild steels are measured on the B Rockwell scale, much lower in hardness testing than Rockwell C scale. If you ever get the chance to take a drill or center drill bit (Center drills are in the Rockwell C 62 range) and try to drill a hole, in aluminum that's been Hardcoat anodize, it will quickly dull the cutting edges of the drill bit or center bit and render it useless. In fact, most tool steel milling cutters are made to a hardness of 62 to 64 Rockwell C hardness. Do NOT confuse regular anodize coating with Hardcoat anodize coating, a totally different process. Regular anodize coating are primary used to make electrical metal enclosures non-electrically conductive. Great way to package electrical circuits that will not be able to short-out in a metal enclosure that's been anodized. with the regular coating. These anodize parts can come in various colors per customer requests. Do NOT underestimate Hardcoat anodizing, it is a fantastic product and tool for electrical and mechanical, design uses. VET
Well I guess this is what we are stuck with if you want to limit the advance. Would really help with the off idle take off.
I don't know where you come up with this because hard coat anodize is not effected by dissimilar metals. It's surface is as hard as heat treated tool steel, so there is no fretting to worry about. Vet
Here is a excellent example of what I'm talking about. Black Anodized Coating (EPC100): Similar to hard anodized coating, this includes a dense Teflon seal on the skirts to increase piston skirt life. All piston surfaces are coated. This is the norm for today's pistons. Hard anodizing coating with Teflon impregnated into it makes for one of the best coatings you can get to add longevity (prevent ware) and lubricity for parts under loads of motion. Vet
Pretty much, buy the cheapest ones out there, cause even the ones at 4 times the price I’m sure need some tweaking with a file to fit. Crank up your initial, jerk the front wheels off the ground, and limit your total
Come to think of it, those of us with more than 2500 stall ARE at max advance as soon as the yellow goes out!
