61 buick lesabre hei upgrade where to get 12 volt to bypass resistor wire

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by 68chevyed, Apr 25, 2024.

  1. 68chevyed

    68chevyed Member

    Putting in hei distributor in friends car. Not sure where to get switched 12 volts. Schematic shows resistor wire goes to ignition switch. No place to connect on fuse block. So will I have to pull ignition switch and connect there or is there somewhere in engine compartment to connect. I'm not used to working on this old of car things are a little different. Thanks
     
  2. Nailhead in a 1967

    Nailhead in a 1967 Kell-Mnown Wember

    Not sure about the earlier Buicks, but later models had the resistor wire in the harness AFTER the ignition switch.

    I just checked the 1961 Buick Chassis Service Manual and it say that in the case of a 1961 car the resistor wire is also situated between the ignition switch and the coil.

    61 Resistor wire.jpg

    So just follow the wire back from the coil and check the voltage at the firewall, if it's 12 volt there, replace the wire from that point to the coil with a regular wire.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2024
  3. Nailhead in a 1967

    Nailhead in a 1967 Kell-Mnown Wember

    It says here that it's a yellow wire:

    1961 Resistor wire.jpg
     
    mitch28 likes this.
  4. 68chevyed

    68chevyed Member

    Thanks for your reply. But it goes through hole in firewall to ignition switch not to plug on firewall. Was hoping to avoid dealing with ignition switch.
     
  5. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Wiper motor has full power with key on at all times.
     
  6. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    But I'm unsure if the fuse will carry enough power to run the motor and the ignition at the same time if you decide you need to run the wipers.
     
    68chevyed likes this.
  7. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Use the resistor wire to power up a relay & pickup the 12 volt supply at the wiper motor.

    Tom T.
     
  8. Nailhead in a 1967

    Nailhead in a 1967 Kell-Mnown Wember

    Doesn't matter if it's a wire or a plug at the firewall. Check the voltage by pinching the wire with a voltmeter. From a point where it still has 12 volts ( before the resistor part of the wire) you cut it and connect a new wire from there to the coil.
     
  9. 68chevyed

    68chevyed Member

    Yep that would be the ignition switch. It is resistor from the switch to the coil. The yellow wire loops goes to dash lights.
     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    On the early cars, the resistance wire is under the dash. If you want to do it right, you'll need to deal with the ignition switch.
     
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  11. Nailhead in a 1967

    Nailhead in a 1967 Kell-Mnown Wember

    In that case, use Tom's suggestion above and use the resistor wire to trigger a relais to send power from a 12 v source to the distributor.
     
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  12. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    mitch28 and 68chevyed like this.
  13. 68chevyed

    68chevyed Member

    Thanks for your replies guys. Going to talk over with my friend see what direction he want to go. I like the relay clean and quick and no under dash
     
  14. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    Yes, and you leave the resistor wire in place in case anyone ever wants to go back to stock points or, install a set of points to get home in case the conversion ever fails. I keep a set in my trunk in addition to a stock coil.
     
  15. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    It sounds like he's doing a HEI distributer, not a conversion?
    From the other thread:
    So this is controversial but I will mention it. The HEI uses more current. Run a new 12 or 10 GA wire to it from a relay connected to a 10 GA source or the battery, especially if you are looking for max performance. Activate it from a switched source. If you get run on, there is a fix. If you need a stock look hide it. You don't need the resistor wire or yellow wire. You can trigger the relay with the resistor wire.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2024
  16. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    Right on the current issue. The points & factory coil draw an average of about 4 amps which comes from the ignition switch, through the bulkhead connector, through a resistive wire to the coil. But, the HEI as well as the Pertronix II and III can draw as much as 10-12 amps, too much IMO to go through the ignition switch. Therefore the need for a relay and 10 or 12 gauge wire to the coil as 12lives mentioned.

    I have my relay mounted on the inner fender right behind the overflow tank as it stays much cooler than if it were near
    the coil or on the firewall. The fix 12Lives mentioned applies if the engine has a separate voltage regulator rather than an alternator with internal regulator. It involves inserting a diode in the GEN light circuit to keep back-voltage from holding the relay closed after the ignition is switched off. (see the diagram) The relay is a common 30 amp auto relay available from most parts stores or online and the diodes are super cheap if needed.

    IMG_2438.jpg IMG_2439.jpg IMG_2440.jpg IMG_2546.jpg
     
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  17. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    The yellow wire in the trans kick doen switch on the manifold has switched 12 volts, not sure if it will handle the current. I've taken voltage fron there to run electric chokes and it works.
     

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