1971 350 Exploratory Disassembly

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by MrSony, Apr 30, 2024.

  1. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    My 3rd engine build and my most successful thus far, a 1971 350 with 3.0 flat tops, TA 310 cam, headers, qjet, TA intake and HEI, stock everything else aside from cleanup machine work. Stock bore.

    I live in iowa so most fuel is ethanol laced, and until recently had a 100 mile daily commute 5 days a week. I have a th350, so RPM at 70 was around 3,000.

    Below are pics after 45,000 miles, half of which are hard high rpm driving for long stretches of time, one a 5 hour spurt on a trip to Wisconsin.

    There was plenty of bearing material in the pan, shavings and chunks. Front rod bearings seem fine, rear bearings had pitting, moreso like the metal balled up and ripped off. Main bearings have little crush left and fall out of the caps. Front cam bearing is in perfect shape.
    Engine ran perfectly fine, had ok oil pressure (had more when fresh), has 5psi minimum after highway driving, has 40psi hot cruising at 3000 rpm. Didn't make a peep aside from sometimes cold start knock before oil pressure built up.

    What say yall? I'm gonna roll in new bearings and send it.
    20240406_170253.jpg 20240414_173618.jpg 20240422_211031.jpg 20240425_002754.jpg 20240425_002820.jpg 20240425_002832.jpg 20240425_002827.jpg 20240425_143804.jpg 20240425_174101.jpg
     
    hwprouty and Dano like this.
  2. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    How's the crank look? If the bearings are that worn, I'd want to have the crank checked.
     
    Brian Albrecht likes this.
  3. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Kinda suprised/concerning to see that bearing wear @ 45k mi. Oil pressure/volume issue given it was the rears? Are mains/cam bearings towards the rear also more worn?

    I think I'd want to do something to try and address the problem besides just putting in new bearings.
     
  4. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    As said above. Need to find root cause unless you just want to keep doing this over and over again.

    Devon
     
  5. Jim Nichols

    Jim Nichols Well-Known Member

    Tops of pistons and chambers look oily. I'd clean them off and get new valve seals. Mic the crank and if a little under std., maybe polish and get .001 bearings from Egge.
     
  6. Stage 2 iron

    Stage 2 iron Platinum Level Contributor

    Five psi after cruising on the highway what was your idle set at?
     
  7. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    600ish in gear.
     
  8. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    Crank isn't machine shop fresh, but nothing to be concerned with. Crank was cut .010/.010 before. Barely enough to catch a nail. As said, engine ran perfectly fine, made no noise.
     
  9. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    Crank is already .010, plugs are a nice Tanish and dry. I think it was inhaling oil through the pcv at 3000-3500rpm.
     
  10. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    The root cause was probably 3000-4000rpm for hundreds of miles a month for two years.
     
  11. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    I would say the motor needed the oil mods before driving 3500-4000 rpm I would have run Mobile 1 synthetic it takes the heat better. It should have 50 lbs at 3000 rpm if oiling was adequate.
     
  12. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    How did you check Bearing clearance's on the last go around, plastigauge?
     
  13. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    It does in every aspect of driving aside from high rpm highway driving.
     
  14. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    Yes, and I used a pair of digital calipers. Not the most scientific but was .002 on the dot on rods and mains.
     
  15. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    IMG_2153.png Cylinders 1 and 3 have a weird “burn” pattern on them, they’re clean on part of the circumference o_O
     
  16. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Also the underside of the intake valley pan (if that is the underside) is filthy with coked up oil.
    Also looks like one of the intake port sealing beads had oil getting in the port.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Jim Nichols

    Jim Nichols Well-Known Member

    I'd do a light hone on the cylinders. My brother used to have a Pro Gas Vega and after every race season he would strip the motor down and use a sheet of 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper with a spray of WD40 and used a hone inside to spin it. Deglazed the cylinder with the light hone. Clean spots on the pistons are from running way too rich.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2024
  18. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    Top side.
     
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