the rich condition is mainly when cold/first start of day.(choke seems to be working) after a few miles, it clears up, I never see black smoke when driving. (I forgot to mention that in the first post) but I think I will go ahead and drop down to the $68,and #71 jets,and the 4.5 pv
Jeff......it sounds like you are having the same problem with your carb as I did with mine (it was a 600 with vac secondaries). It seemed no matter what I did, it would run very rich on start up on cold, humid days but lean on warm, dry days. Sometimes I would have to restart it once or twice b/c it would stall immediately after starting it when cold. After trial and error I was finally able to find a compromise adjustment......but I was never happy with that b/c it was never really right. If your carb is running rich when cold but OK when at normal temp, you have a choke related problem. Jetting probably won't help. Perhaps someone has the solution for your problem, but I ran that holley on my Ford for over 8 years and was never able to get it to run perfect. Even when it was new out of the box, I had flooding problems that were difficult to fix......I had to use heavier springs on the floats. Maybe you could try that?
I don't think the avenger series had the springs, the old 600 parts carb I have has the springs. wonder if my floats could possibly have a hole in them? front one is brass, secondary is some type of plastic. just a thought
I would try dropping 2 jet sizes all the way around and see if the plugs clean up. Also make sure you are getting 12 volts to your msd. Good luck.
I hadn't thought of the ignition not getting full 12v. I think have it going to an ign terminal in the fuse block, I'll sure check that out!!!! thanks! :TU:
Any chance your heat crossover in the heads/manifold is blocked with carbon or intentionally? Without this heat under the manifold the fuel won't atomize correctly and seems rich during warm-up. I blocked the ports in the heads on a sbb years ago then reversed the process because the cold start problems were not worth the small power gains.
shouldn't be blocked with carbon, engine has just over 600 miles ( SE Stage 1 alum heads,SP1 intake) I don't recall plugging them.(I felt the intake once a couple min. after the engine was started,it was warming up as the engine ran for now,I'll concentrate on re jetting the carb, and make sure I have 12v to my MSD box,and then see what it does
not so much the voltage- making sure it's adjusted to the correct position cold- had problems when I first threw mine on too!
not real sure, I'll look. I really want to make an "air box" to match my cowl hood. anyone got a plan for one I could folllow? something that could be built for cheap?
Just measure everything,get ya some sheet metal and aviation snips or air shears and a pop rivet gun and go to town with your imagination.:Brow:
The reason that I asked is because I had a drop base air cleaner on my setup. I found that whatever I did, it was too rich. If you look, you will notice that the vents are not being able to vent under the top of the air cleaner cover. As soon as I took off the air cleaner, the car ran much better. Actually, I put the Stage 2 type cowl scoop on it and it solved that. Well some of it. The other problem that I found out was that HOLLEY put a 750 base on the 1000 carb that I bought brand new from Summit. That put a monkey wrench in it too. Their tech department manager has it on his desk and said that it is there to show the crew that they are human too, he said.
