1966 Buick Gran Sport Survivor! Orig. Paint, Interior & Drivetrain

Must be another one of Jimmy's. Same dealer as the last one:

https://www.hemmings.com/classified...lert&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-05-22

My kinda car - Stripper/manual steering 4-sp. if I had the spare $ I'd have to seriously consider this one.

 

37k? Damn that's cashish. Nice car for sure

 

Dano, I wish I was independently wealthy looks to be a really nice original 66 GS, car is worth every penny of the asking price.

 

What a beauty!

 

Do the 66 bring that kind of coin? I don't follow them but was a little surprised.

 

That's kinda class 1 money for a class 3 car.

 

Boy those engine bays without power steering brakes etc sure are empty. Very cool car.

 

Curious what you think makes it a class 3 car? Make/year/model or condition?

Assuming the ad is correct and we know the caliber of the cars Jimmy has collected it's rust-free, low mileage, original paint, original interior, original drivetrain - Basically an untouched 55 y/o car in seemingly roadworththy condition. I'm not sure how that's classified and wbike everything has a value, it's hard to put a price on that. I could see if has been messed with or was an older restoration but IMHO original cars, especially all original rust free sheetmetal cars should command a premium.

 

Underside pictures indicate some inadequacies.

 

Dang 37 k , what's my 65 small badge CA black plate convertible worth then

 

Floors, drive shaft look like they were sitting in water for a long time. They sure don't match the topside of the car.

 

I don't see that. Just life in a humid world.

Not one person with a clue thinks this car isn't awesome. Super super clean original car.

 

Listing is located in New Hampshire not very humid up North!!
Paint and interior look nice.

 

If I walked into that dealership my attention would immediately be swayed toward that original 390 4 speed`64 Galaxie that is also listed there. For less money, too. I know this isn't a Ford site but that car seems like a far better deal.

Another thing that I see far too often are the 396 flags on that gold `67 Chevelle SS396 in the wrong place. And they most likely drilled holes in the fenders to put them there. For $20 they could have bought a repo assembly manual and gotten the info for the placement of the emblems. I guess it's true what they say, you can't fix stupid.

 

Don't know anything about a ford or a Chevelle. Finding either is so much easier. See Production figures.

I think this GS is a very nice original car. I posted that I think the price is up there. I am not dogging it at all. Maybe the right buyer will want it.

 

I didn't mean for my post to be misleading, the Buick is a super nice rare car without a doubt. The Ford is a fairly rare car as well, and also fairly hard to come by, particularly equipped as that one and also particularly in that original condition. The Chevelle, well, yeah, they're everywhere. Nothing special about it. It just irritates me some when I see emblems placed in the wrong position when it would have been so easy to find out where to put them and be correct. I see it on a lot of other cars too, not just Chevelles. It just seems so preventable if the restorer had just taken a little time to do the research.

 

I so agree. I have seen so many high dollar 442's with screwed up emblems. Soooo many. I feel you on that for sure. That and I have mental issues with stripes that weren't factory. W-30 stripes on a non W car. Trunk stripes on Any Olds other than a pace car NEVER HAPPENED!!

 

Exactly - That's what an original, non-undercoated car looks like and I suspect it looks way worse than it actually is. Unfortunately there's probably the backside of painted sheetmetal that you can't see that looks similar. There's a very original '70 455 convertible for sale on here too that looks just like that underneath and I think that's the only reason it hasn't sold. It's like patina on the underside exc. it barely got any paint under there to protect it in the first place. My question is on an all original car, what do you do to to keep the car all original & not make a mess but stop that in it's tracks?

 

I agree that's a lot for any '66 GS, but if your '65 is in that condition/all original (paint, interior, drivetrain & added bonus if it's a 4-sp.) like I said above it's almost hard to put a price on it. It's finding the right person that can appreciate it and has the $. If I ever get a 65-67 it'll be something like this '66 or a done car by someone who I know of (likely someone on here) & who did it right - The "book value" will be a secondary consideration. I also think that there needs to be some price premium placed on originality, especially sheetmetal. We know what a #'s matching drivetrain does to value but there's little monetary consideration given in "values" to original sheet metal let alone original paint. I know I overpaid for my '70 GS 350 4-sp. but I wanted that car - Not because of the considerations above but the original options/colors.

 

I'm not the one who makes the definition I just interpret it. Here's the definition: Class 3 Very good - Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus, combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components or a partially restored vehicle with all parts necessary to complete and/or valuable NOS parts.

When you go to a local car show you are looking at mostly class 3 and 4 cars and very rarely a class 2 car. I've seen very few class 1 cars outside of Pebble Beach or Amelia Island. A car can be 100% original, paint and everything, but if it's showing wear it's not going to be class 1, it may be class 2 at the most. I have a unrestored car that's nicer than this one that I consider to be class 3. If you want I'll sell it to you as a class 1 car. Sound OK?