1967 Skylark Nearing Completion

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by 67skylark27, May 14, 2011.

  1. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    Next up was something that came up over the last few weeks and during the
    drive down to my brothers to do the gears. I had a slight chug at cruising
    speed and at idle. I couldn't tune it out. I had successfully fixed some minor
    vacuum leaks last year and had it running pretty smoothly. I was able to
    narrow this new vacuum leak to the throttle shaft on the secondaries. Sprayed
    a little carb cleaner at the shaft and she idled up and smooth. I looked into
    having new bushings put in, and I'm sure that would have worked but opted
    for a brand new carb instead. After doing some reading I decided on a new
    Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS 650. Larry from the site here had said the AVS and
    not the AFB Performer was the better option if you weren't going to convert
    to a quadrajet. I don't race at all so AVS it was. It's based off the Carter
    so a lot less to mess with. With just basic vac readings I adjusted the
    idle mixture and got it pretty smooth after it warmed up. It was set pretty
    darn close out of the box, fired right up, choke worked great. A short
    test drive showed excellent throttle response, smooth idle, and no
    surging or chug! Once I set the trans cable correctly I could tell it's
    going to be a much better performing carb than what I had on there, and
    matched up with my new rear gear ratio I'm really starting to feel the
    true potential of the engine! The 3rd and 4th gear shifts are much firmer
    so the geometry of the adapter is just that little bit closer than what
    I was able to make by hand. Front tires are getting rebalanced by my
    son at school today. I'm hoping for a super smooth and quick car
    on my second test drive tonight.
     

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  2. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    I had to make a tv cable bracket before for the
    2004r transmission swap, and I had to modify it
    again to clean up the installation a bit and provide
    some more adjustment due to the different placement
    of the cable mount/adapter. I made sure to measure my
    cable distance to set it again after the new carb was on.
    Very important step, it only took a couple minutes to
    get it back to where I had it set before. It bolts on the
    rear carb bolts, one hole is open for adjusting the initial
    distance, very simple. Once I got it on and measured up
    I did add additional surface area for good bolt contact to
    the carb base.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 30, 2018
  3. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    The installation of the carb was very straightforward.
    I have a 3/4" spacer in there to make the necessary
    clearance for the tv cable mount. Without it, there
    would be contact with the intake. I purchased a fuel line
    adapter that brought the line back up to the front like the
    old Carter carb. That was a good decision, I have just a 2"
    piece of rubber connecting the carb and the steel line from
    the fuel pump. Also shown here is the tv cable adapter. It's
    nice to have that on there as before I had to make my own
    and figure out all the geometry myself.
     

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  4. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    Here's my goofball son giving me a hand.
    A garage helper pic, and his prom pic showing
    he's a master of change! I bet there's a flannel
    shirt under that tux.
     

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  5. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    Well, getting the front tires balance didn't have too much of an effect
    on my remaining vibration issue. So I delved into the driveshaft
    u joint angles and did some measurements with the Tremec angle
    finder app on my phone. That worked slick and verified that
    my yokes were no longer parallel after the transmission swap.
    What gave me the biggest clue where to look was the vibration
    I'd get when letting off the gas down a hill. The transmission
    angle was about zero and the pinion yoke was at 5 or so. So I shimmed
    the trans up a few degrees and that made a nice difference. I am
    almost vibration free! A few more test drives and I can verify that
    I'm good to go.

    Update: I am pretty pleased with eliminating most of the vibrations, seems
    getting the trans tailshaft up higher helped a lot. I can't go any further
    however as I'd hit the tunnel. I am not sure why the differential is angled down so far
    and to do any more adjustments will require adjustable upper
    control arms now, that will be next year if I mess with it any more.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2016
  6. gs66

    gs66 Well-Known Member

    Lookin' good!
     
  7. rhedelius

    rhedelius Well-Known Member

    That 67 looks great! I see you put rear springs in it, what did you end up going with (mfg/part #)? Mine is in dire need of some rear help, it sags too much. Also, I take it those are 15x7 wheels? What size tire did you end up with front and rear?

    BTW, thanks for replying to my thread with your timing info!

    -Rick
     
  8. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    That 67 looks great! I see you put rear springs in it, what did you end up going with (mfg/part #)? Mine is in dire need of some rear help, it sags too much. Also, I take it those are 15x7 wheels? What size tire did you end up with front and rear?

    BTW, thanks for replying to my thread with your timing info!

    -Rick

    Thanks! It's been a fun project and fun for the whole family to enjoy. The rear springs I used were the stock ones
    from Autozone I believe. That was three years ago so I don't have the part number, moogs I think. I do remember looking at quite
    a few on Rock Auto and seeing if I wanted to use something taller. I wish I would have! I'll see if I have something bookmarked
    on my computer at home and let you know. I wanted a slightly raked stance and new springs didn't really achieve
    that, so I still ended up adding air into the air shocks in the rear to get what I wanted. Makes the ride a little
    stiffer, but if I have five people in there I stay straight! I also added a rear sway bar a few years back also.

    The tires and rims are 14x6's, they came with the car and I found the set of tires for 200 bucks. I really want
    the 15x7 and new tires at some point after I wear these out. Fronts are 215/70/14, and the rear are 225/70/14
    if I remember right, I don't think they are 75's.

    Car is in storage so once I bust it out and can be a little more specific on timing and maybe pull a part number
    off the springs - although I think you would also like something stiffer like a Riviera spring or just a bit taller -1"
     
  9. 1adam12

    1adam12 Well-Known Member

    Car looks great. I have a 67 gs340 car that some one shaped a 300 in long ago before I bought it. I had a 430 for it but decided to track down a 340 for it. My 300 runs great. What kind of difference did the swap to the 340 provide. I picked up a 340-4 for it but have yet to swap it. I also did yet he 2004r swap and was extremely pleased with it. Thanks again
     
    67skylark27 likes this.
  10. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    Thanks!!! You will definitely notice the extra horsepower with the extra cubes and going to a 4bbl carb.
    That's the main reason I went to the 340, I wanted the engine specs to match up
    to the rumble it makes. It was also a direct swap and a lot of parts are exactly the same.
    The mileage decrease is noticeable so be prepared for that. Totally worth it though!
    I'd say the tranny swap made the biggest seat of the pants difference. I don't know
    that my super turbine was fully functioning correctly as first gear burned out
    a month after I got it back on the road. Now that I have some better gears in it,
    it's very well mannered and easy to drive anywhere. Share a link to your swap
    when you get to it!
     
  11. Buicksky

    Buicksky Silver Level contributor

    Great thread and nice work on the car!
     
  12. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    Here's a few updated shots from last fall before it went into storage.
     

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  13. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    rear gears 1.jpg rear gears 2.jpg rear gears 1.jpg rear gears 2.jpg Just a little update here. Did some more fine tuning and did a rear gear oil change. I'm really
    loving the new rear gear and posi swap! I have been working on tuning the carb a little better,
    relocated the pcv valve hose to the front of the car rather than the rear, and redid the idle
    screw setting, was able to go much leaner, reset the choke a bit too. Much smoother idling
    now and got rid of the fuel smell as well. Changing the grommet in the brake booster eliminated
    the last vacuum leak that popped up as well. Running smooth!

    I changed rear gear oil as well, after setting up the gears I did end up with a slight whine on
    deceleration only from 65 to 35 mph. A local shop recommended I upgrade the oil I'm using
    as all my specs were darn near dead nuts and a lot of todays gears have some degree of noise.
    I had used 80w90 synthetic with the additive. It's evidently on the thin side and after
    draining it our and measureing the amount I was a little low for some reason, 36 oz came
    out and I was able to put in 60 oz of the new stuff. I went with Castrol GL-5 traditional 85w140
    with the true GM brand limited slip additive, 2 bottles was recommended. That eliminated
    all the noise in the rear, seams to have fixed it. Here are the patterns from the gears after about 2500 miles.
    This is my second fluid change, first after 500 miles. Pattern isn't perfect, but it's quiet so I'm going
    to run it unless somebody tells me they can get it closer!
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2017
  14. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    Latest update is the new tires and rims. I bought some 15x7 rims from a member on the board
    and that enable me to put 255/60/15 Cooper Cobra's on the back and 245/60/15's on the front.
    No rubbing so far but I will verify that this week. They look great and finally give the
    tires some better proportion. The handling is much better as well, which is a nice surprise.

    Update 5/4/18. I put 1.5" aluminum spacers under the rear springs and let all of the air out the shocks. Now it sits properly without so much air pressure in them. From floor to wheel trim
    it is sitting at 26.25" and I have plenty of clearance for the 255's. If I ever have 5 or 6 people
    in there I will have to watch it, but looks great. I was able to do a little trimming on the
    inside of the lip to maximize clearance as well, maybe and 1/8" on one side and 1/16" on the other. Should be golden now!
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2018
  15. Double6skylark

    Double6skylark Well-Known Member

    Great looking build @67skylark27
    I appreciate reading about your build as I am looking to mirror your upgrades. Thanks again for sharing.
     
    67skylark27 likes this.
  16. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    You bet, I put all this in here so others can have a guide with what works and what doesn't. It's been my
    learning car so when I do the next one, I'll do things even better. Good luck on your car and feel free to
    message me anytime.
     
  17. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    Here's a new photo after a full wash and wax and with the new tires and rims.
    She ran excellent this weekend and took it to the NWTC Car Show again.
    Picture is taken at the Chase Stone Barn Park, one of the oldest
    and largest stone barns remaining in the country.
    1525699118298.jpg
     
  18. BYoung

    BYoung Stage me

    Very nicely done! That's a beautiful car.
     
  19. StagedCat

    StagedCat Platinum Level Contributor

    Beautiful, nice work.....
     
  20. NZ GS 400

    NZ GS 400 Gold Level Contributor

    Very nice Brett. What back space are your wheels? 4 1/4?
     

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