I am getting ready to replace my rear spings and shocks and not sure the best place to put the jacks. I assume since it is an X frame I need to put the jacks far back on frame by the rear bumper. Is it safe to raise the car using a floor jack on the bottom of the differential housing up high enough to place the jacks in position? Then I will remove the tires and bottom bolt of the shocks to lower the rear end. I will also unbolt the drive line from the differential. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
Jack it up from the differential. Not a problem. As far as jack placement, You can put the jack stands on the rear pinchwelds of the body. When I set up my car on a lift, that's where I lift it from. No reason to unbolt the driveshaft from the differential.
Thanks Jason, Thats a big help but can you educate me on where the pinch welds are located on the body. I want to make sure I get the jack placement right. Thanks Again Michael
I would not put jack stands on the body When I did this job I placed the jack stands where the trailing arms bolt to the frame. Then used my floor jack to lower and raise the rear end. No need to unbolt the drive shaft.
^I did it the exact same way as Briz. If you do use the pinch body method you very much need to place a 2x4 along the body ware you place the jackstand.
The rear section of pinchwelds on a Riv are made to support the car. In comparison, if you tried that on a Skylark, you would likely crush the rockers
This is all good information. Now I have two good spots to look at when placing my jacks, Thanks for all of your help. I will keep you posted on my progress. Thanks, Michael
I had my 68 riv on a center post lift . The arms would not reach the frame. So i put oak 2x4 on all 4 arms on the body seams. The front ones I had to readjust when the fenders started to lift before the body. Put them just behind the fenders. But all in all it sure is one way to check your body mounts. That thought occured a time or two as i was under neath hanging the exgaust pipes.
If this is true then why would the supplied jack lift the car from the frame via the bumper? Lifting on the body would hang the weight off the 10 body mount bolts. Probably would not hurt anything for a short time. but I would not go as far to say it was designed for it.
The problem is that you cant put all 4 pads of a lift on the frame. The pads will be too inboard and make the car unstable. You have to position the two rear pads more outboard.
I have a 2 post lift and can reach the frame just behind the front wheels and on the section of frame where the trailing arms connect in the rear. Car seems plenty stable.
I tried it that way but was too off center with the lift posts. And it was a whole lotta front end past the lift arms too. I think these Riv's were ment for the in ground front and rear large post deals that lift under eCh axel
I plan on lifting mine today to drop the tank again. I'll get pics from under the car for placement of the pads.
Well thats a killer lift you got there. No rear sway bar. Without one I could land my lady in my lap on a freeway on ramp. I found one on Grand national . It lines up perfectly with the holes on the side of your boxed arms down there. I boxed part of my front lower arm too. Ive been trying to figure out a more beffy strut bar up front no luck yet. Do you still have the vulcanized rear part of driveshaft, it dont look like it. Nice n clean . That chrome rear cover you must have had chromed. Thats one heavy duty lift . !
you still having troubles with the sending unit? I used my orignal one but brazed a bigger supply pipe and return. Put a fram canister filter with the mallory pump. That type of fuel filter you got there is restrictive. I try to avoid any in line filtering. I had to pull my tank too it was leaking near the seam. I drained it and brazed it without water or flushing. I got extremely lucky nothing happened. Funny thing my old boss was doing the same to a tank but he had it filled with water to below the crack. He ended up with a big bubble water splash in his face. Odd how things go .
I did the same using 1/2 inch tubing. With the RobMc pump I got all the fuel that hog can swallow. Filter is not overly restrictive. Only reason for pulling the tank is dialing in the sending unit. 3rd time's the charm. Needle slightly above full @ 21 gals in the tank and about 3" of fuel when it reads empty. Not running any type of sock so wanna keep the pick up submerged at all times. Also made it 4 " longer pointing towards the rear of the tank so it wont suck any air on a hard launch.
