Big step today! I ordered the Torque-Tech 2-1/2" system with Walker 20" Super Turbo Mufflers and the balance tube today. It should all be here by this time next week and I will install it and fire it off that weekend!! I installed the same system on the vert a few years ago and was very pleased.
Hey Mark. I'm curious why the battery cutoff switch is needed if you kept the battery up front? Wondering if I need one? Thanks
Please consult the current NHRA rules for any current year if you are going to the track and need to tech. Even if you don't plan to track and tech, the rules are good general safety points and guidelines to keep one in check and keep in mind for street car build. These are powerful machines that when things go wrong a standard of safety goes a long way to save lives. As for Master shut off switch, there are good reasons for it and the battery location isn't the only consideration. GOD Forbid a wipe out for anyone- anywhere, first responders at a track are trained and need to be able to secure a wreck scene. The intent of the rule is to assure first responders can know where to "kill" a vehicle from the outside; i.e assure electric fuel pump is not pumping fuel all over the place with the potential fire when a car rolls over or the car is still running in gear and wheels are spinning.... http://www.nhraracer.com/content/general.asp?articleid=47000&zoneid=132
Thanks for the response. I'm aware of the NHRA rules. I guess I should have said that I wondered if they had changed. I fully agree with adding one even if it's not required. Hope to see your car out at the track this summer!
Here's a Quick update since last post: Extra time for the project is getting scarce as spring activities ramp up with family. The new exhaust system showed a couple of weeks ago as planned and I installed it. BTW- Hey Dave K- good talking to you today. The Nitrous Oxide system complete and 100% tested and functional when called upon after engine break in, leak down and compression test. The new Carpet and sill plates are installed. The No Hop bars have been bolted through differential and complete. The Auto Meter Fuel gauge has been installed between the oil and water gauge under the dash. It is not operation yet as the in line temporary gauge was needed for cam break in today. I will complete the plumbing between the isolator and the gauge now the cam break in is complete. I fired her off today!! After oil prime, the Cam break in is complete. The MSD initial timing is set to 10*-34* all in at 2500rpm. The fuel pressure is steady at 7 psi when the electric pump is introduced and the stock Stage 1 pump does the job alone varying between- 4.5 - 5.5 psi. The electric pump is only for the NOS operation in the future. Break in started a bit rough as the fuel filter -in line hose- at the tank kinked under pressure choking gas so I shut it down a few seconds in to fix. After that, she didn't want to start. I pulled and grounded #1 plug to get her to cough and then she fired right off! She ran for cam break in total about 32 min. Started @ 1500rpm then 1700rpm-2000rpm- 2200rpm steady. All steps at 3-4 min ramp ups steady then held 2200. The 70 PSI oil never budged; even at temp which once at temp never stood above 185 water temp. I had a couple external house fans blowing at the radiator to help it. After break in, and cooled down, the Oil was dumped and checked with magnet and strained for any metal bit detection; and the filter,...all was clean. Coolant was dumped and also checked clean. What a day. Sunday I will adjust the clutch and hopefully drive it to begin engine break in God Willing! Better Photo and video tomorrow. Audio does suck. Cheers!
Sunday I made the maiden voyage for a three mile destination to my pop-in-laws place where I ran her through the gears and varying loads both with and without vacuum and rpms but kept the r's below 3200. Let her cool down for a heat cycle the drive her back home same manner. What a great combo with the 2.90 and torquey 455 stick car! And the M-22 is an orchestra of only the iron gear section but the bass and percussion is well handled by the cubes through the pipes and wind section in the whirl as she flies by.... Photo from pops place as she cools. The front temp snow tires are off once I get back the 15's from powder coating and new 245's.
Took her out for a trip to the grocery store today. 10 mile round trip. Egads! those 2.90's are some doggy somebiskets in the rear! Those will be replaced for 3.42's sooner than later. It is sure fun to drive and can't wait until the nitrous is injected once the engine is broken in.... The 15" rims are at powder coat now and will have new tires on them next week. Here are some shots one at the grocery store today and the others of the interior. The fuel pressure gauge is in the process of being hooked up.. .
....speaking of doggy..the powder coated wheels were fitted and with BFG 245/60/15...still strongly considering recoating to body color. The rear hides are next. I ordered some BUICK mud flaps to disguise the rear meats from behind. I also decided to proceed to convert the polished finish aluminum rims to coated color. color to be determined..:TU: front hides
The Street Sleeper has about 100 miles on her now. Took her out for a light flogging yesterday afternoon. On Monday I had a guy who details cars for a living come out and do what he could with the paint to shine it up a bit. He figured he could get it to look as good as the one spot I hand rubbed on a few months ago to investigate the condition and take him about 2 hours. Four hours later and about 6 different jugs of compound and carnauba he had enough and said that paint is some hard "Sthit". I am pleased with it. The oxidation is removed, it has a shine and will bead water- perfect for the project. Here are some before and after shots: Before & After Before & After Before & After
Looking good Mark. NOW hit that Beotch with some Nitrous & let us know what she can really do...................
Howdy Mounty! Thanks for chiming in! I want to get another few hundred miles of break in on it before a leak down and compression check before adding the gas. I took her out for another row today......needs gears!
Great project!! I am thinking about taking the chassis out from under my 70 Lark to clean, detail and paint everything. The engine and trans are out so I am almost there....
I hear ya Mark.... The turbo car had 2:73 gears and pulled like a freight train, but was a dog out of the hole. Just put 3:23's in. Hoping for a huge difference:3gears:
Update time: After about 150 miles on the engine, in late August I determined that the engine just wasnt tuning or running as I had expected it. It became apparent that the 71 heads that I used on the build did not have the machine work done properly by the person I got them from and was causing internal vacuum leak. I decided to swap out the 71 heads with a set of 70 heads that I had vortec work done in the combustion chambers, mildly ported and the intake port matched. I also decided to revise the fuel lines from the pump up for a little cleaner look. All back together and it runs like I expected it to. Now for more break in miles then introduce the funny gas. Vids and pics from Sunday evening for the record: Vids: Pics:
Thanks, its been fun. I was out today rowing through the gears and the whine of the Rock Crusher is such a treat! I cant wait to put better rear gears in it but I have to see how the Nitrous works with the current set up fist...
Hey mark , just touching base with you , your stuff is here if you still need it if its been my fault we havent got this done I apologize, my life has been crazy since end of august, let me know.
Nothing beats Doggie Style....I got the 275/60/15 Drag Force on the rear and Doggies now all the way around:TU: I also restored a set of sport mirrors and installed those a few weeks ago...
