Thanks, the car is a blast to drive! That is a 70 OLDs 8.5" (12 bolt) and agreed, not a bad start for a build and bolt in axles are safer. I already have one price to do exactly as you suggest to that rear already and it is about $500 more than building a CHEBY 12 bolt with comparable or better parts, only assuming I can get the 12 bolt housing for Cheap or it starts being about a push $ wise. Then, what's the better rear for the money at that point; the 8.5" or the ~9" 12 bolt? I need to get more pricing for the two options soon as I want to get it's rear up to the task as it needs to handle slicks at the track. MarkO
Well, if we are talking buy it once and never break it I still would skip the 12 bolt and jump to one of these. Those chevelle guys need the 12 bolt. http://www.quickperformance.com/QP-GM-1968-1972-A-Body-9-Inch-Housing-Axle-Package_p_16019.html http://www.quickperformance.com/9-Ford-Complete-Rearend-GM-A-Body-68-72_p_20386.html Check some of the boxes, give em a card number, bolt it in and abuse it. I know that is where I would go when I break the 8.5 I have for my car.
Thanks, I am all over it now! I can not believe their pricing, $, $2600 all in nuts, guts and feathers to the door for a 9" Detroit Locker 3.7:1 with disc brakes!!!
Hi Chris, have not dyno tuned yet; my guy has been busy, and I have also been busy and getting over a nasty cold. We are going to try and see if we can do it next Saturday. It is running really good. I was out today tearing around the Island, so I am so excited to dyno tune it to see what it does. If we think it can handle it, we will tune it starting with the 100 shot jetting and work our way up to the 150 shot. Hope she holds together as I don't want to have to drop in the new engine yet :grin:... +030", forged 9:1, TA 212....rather get the new rear in there as gears will really wake this thing up.
....and throwing a pair of new rear tires on this week as for some reason the rears are all but :3gears:d..e..a..d..:TU:
I just ordered a X Crossover for the exhaust system; should be a snap to pop it in and really enhance mid range torque and sweeten the over all sound :TU: Every time I start shopping for tires, I end up going down a path and pull the trigger on something I wasn't looking for, and is sure to contribute to lessen the life of the tires once I get them....
Update for those following along at home,,,,We are going to wait for dyno tune until the crossover exhaust is on it and by then those new M/T's will be on it too. Exhaust ships out next week, tires shipped yesterday, so it is looking like a few more weeks until dyno tune. Still Gotta save up for that new rearend.... Cheers!
Stage1 fuel pump wasnt getting it done, ROB MC on the way for tried and true primary fuel delivery. I will reconfigure secondary N2O fuel supply pump line and tank return line when it shows. Down a few lbs of N2O :laugh:
I have saved up about half the funds for the new rear. I can't wait!!! I opted out of the disc brakes in lieu of some strength upgrades on the rear... The 3.7's are going to make the car so fun and should be putting it through the traps at 5300 rpm which is right were I want it... F9A7COMPLETE-D&F--BILEND--1/4Tube--1/2x3--370--TT--AFTERMARKETCENTER- 9" Ford Complete Rearend GM A-Body 68-72 Details: Housing Upgrades: Drain & Fill Plugs w/ Jack Pad $55.00 Billet Steel Housing Ends w/ Oil Seal Surface $75.00 1/4" Heavy Walled Axle Tube $30.00 Wheel Bolt Pattern: 5x4-3/4" (Chevy) Wheel Stud Size: 1/2"-20 x 3" (Long) Center Section Gear Ratio: 3.70 Center Section Traction Device: 31 Spline Eaton Truetrac Posi - $125.00 Center Section Upgrade (450-650 HP): Yukon Pro N case, Daytona Pinion Support, Billet Yoke (for 450-650 HP) - $350.00 Brake Lines: No Thanks $2,500.00 Shipping $147
How thick are the regular tubes compared to how thick are the $30 extra ones? Probably not worth worrying about $30 and get em and I am all in on the $55 drain plug. Puuling the "chunck" without draining would be like an auto trans bath except with gear oil. I can't wait to see pix of it going in.
"I added an electric fuel pump to supplement the stage 1 mechanical fuel pump. The in line fuel pump is located on the frame rail where the factory utilizes a short piece of rubber to join the front and rear steel fuel lines. The nitrous line and power for the fuel pump and bottle heater also follow the factory fuel lines and are concealed in black wire loom and zip tied. A inline fuel filter also is installed in line with the factory rubber line that connects the tank to the steel rear fuel line. All in, less than 12” of rubber fuel line exists on the car. " I just went through a nitrous install on my 455 and you answered a few of the question I had. What are you doing for fuel now? Robb MC through carter? Which carter electric? You decided to pull through the electric with mechanical at all times? I am still trying to determine what to do for fuel delivery. I am currently using the TA pump through a Holley regulator. Not sure that will be enough. I really like the plumbing directly into the quadrajet.
I have been pulling with mechanical through the electric if just putting around but it starves at WOT, so I usually run the electric at all times. What i have works, but it is a bandaid approach. I am upgrading to RobMC 1100 and 1/2" fuel supply from the tank.Rob sells 1/2" replacement pickup/return/sender for the stock tank. The 1100 which is adjustable makes12.5 psi and will suffice for all the fuel needs. I wont run the electric at all And take it out of the system. Will Regulate fuel for the qjet, a return line to tank and split to regulator for N20 feed is the plan. Ill update this thread when i make the change.
Nice parts, they custom cut it for me, I highly recommend, and will be easy add next Saturday and cutting in the O2 sensor to the drivers side rear X complete exhaust chore only leaving the desired fuel system upgrade before heading to dyno....but i might just take it with the fuel delivery sytstem it has sinceit works... Cheers!!
Update: The new 1/2" Fuel system parts are purchased and I am waiting for a couple more items from Robb Mc I ordered today, so maybe I'll tackle that next weekend...then dyno :TU: I am still only about half way there for the new rear end before track action....when I have the cash, I will use the air miles card and pay it off. Must wait for the cash in hand before I buy it...What's in your wallet? The new exhaust Crossover system is installed and I am very pleased as it is much smoother and more quiet----more sneaky :Brow: O2 sensor also installed and functioning. Everything is welded but I used band clamps for the rear muffler connection to allow for easy removal if I want to pull it out to service transmission etc. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lgzFyQ4ZEhg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Update: I completed the Fuel system was upgrade a couple weeks ago. The fuel system upgrade is a complete-8AN fuel supply and Robb Mc components. pumped out and dropped tank to install new Robb Mc pickup. The pickup was not set up for AN fittings so I modified that. I also wanted to be able to shut off the fuel so a ball style shut off valve is installed for supply line, then a 100 micron filter, through -8AN braided to the Robb Mc 1100 pump. Out to a 40micron filter to a 1050 regulator which sends a -8AN line to the Q-jet and a -4AN to N2O fuel supply regulator and a -4AN Vapor Return back to the tank in braided hose. Tank pickup Under hood lines loomed The Yes, I sacrificed some stealth for the upgraded fuel supply, but the master plan is to revisit stealth when I swap the engine out for the forged mill I installed the TA 212 Cam into the forged mill and degreed it in today. It was within one degree; not bad as it was ground at Schneider over ten years ago and has been stored. New TA 1405 lifters also arrived a few weeks ago. I keep spending money saved for the Quick Performance 9" 3.7 rear to handle it all, but no sense putting the rear in until it is all set, right? lhttp://www.quickperformance.com/GM-A-Body-68-72-Complete-9-Rearend_c_537.html I will not loose sight of Stealth when the hood is open...or as the Skylark flies away from an unsuspecting competitor... This weekend I swapped out an aftermarket bell crank for a aftermarket that I know was F'd up; did not help which confirmed the aftermarket fork is also F'd. Out comes the trans, which is exactly one year old to the day as Muncie Bill built it 4-30-14:TU: The clutch looks like new, considering it has less than 500 miles on it. The TO bearing was stressed from maxing out the adjustment to get the god damn thing to work. The roller pilot bearing and fly wheel also look like new.:TU: I purchased a Centerforce dual friction clutch and throw out bearing before digging in just in case it was clutch related. Since the Zoom Perfection clutch still looks like new, I am not sure if I will return the CF clutch and reallocate those funds toward a hydraulic clutch conversion and never look back at the aftermarket manual clutch parts....maybe keep it and run it and proceed with the hydraulic and move further back on the savings for the QP rear....decision time but it is hydraulic clutch time.... The Taylor trunk mounted battery box is in position and Moroso battery cut off switch is mounted. I am waiting for my pal to send me back the battery cable I sent with the 'vert I sold a couple years ago he is not using to complete the relocation to the trunk. I am going to pull the 1971 OEM NOS engine out for the forged mill swap which will make the conversion the hydraulic clutch much easier. When I do this, I also am going to fashion a secondary wiring harness fire wall block (like factory) for all the secondary wiring from the cabin to the engine bay (N2O, Gauges, Ignition, etc...) Like the idea of solid, sealed connections. As it is, all the secondary wiring is running through a grommeted hole, good location just want to tighten it up.
I'm diggin' the edelbrock valve covers. Keep up the good work. Thanks for the pix. Lookin' real good.
Thanks. Even with Chris helping me with some of the Robb Mc stuff that saved me a couple hundred bucks, I am still about $1300 into the fuel system parts :eek2: That was half the new rear end savings...
