Posterity update: New mill runs great, makes gobs of power and now has about three hours on it. I installed a hour meter concealed under the dash out of view to monitor run time. I couldn't resist the urge to introduce some nitrous on Sunday...just love that kick in the pants man, that really wakes up a ride but I didn't blow too much though, want to get a few hundred miles on her and dyno tune this before going all out with the spray. Sadly, I am loosing the sleeper look under the hood right now. Between the fuel system, adding 1" spacer under the QJet, which required a K&N air cleaner set up that sits a bit lower than stock since stock was contacting the hood. Nitrous components are not concealed with this set up. I haven't fussed around to see what I need to do to try and use a stock looking set up again but I will. I also swapped back my Kenne Bell flex fan since the clutch fan I had wasn't keeping temp down where I wanted. Stays right at 190* now. Hydraulic clutch and TO bearing set up works flawlessly! Quite pleased with that. I installed a fuel pressure gauge to match the Autometer Pro comp oil and water under the dash. The Robb Mc 1100 sprung a leak, so sent it back to Robb and he swapped it out for a new one. Still saving for the quick Performance 9" -3.73 rear to finish it off. Cheers!
Posterity post to keep pertinent build info in this thread: These are the pertinent posts from the hydraulic clutch and throw out bearing thread with the most recent 7/13/2015 update upgrading to 3/8" clutch pedal rod and the initial build using 5/16" clutch pedal rod. Cheers! 7/13/2015: The set up seems to be working flawlessly after a couple modifications. The first test was showing that the 5/16" threaded rod was flexing under pedal pressure. I could not find Grade 8 in 5/16" so I switched from a 5/16" threaded rod to 3/8" which is much stronger and doesnt flex under pressure and by the make up, there isn't but a few inches of threaded rod in the set up. I used the 3/8 heim joint with a long exhaust stud which is 24 thread into the heim and 16 tpi on the other side. A 3/8" 16 rod coupler threaded onto that end and a short piece of 3/8" threaded rod to a 3/16" : 5/16" threaded rod reducer I welded together to thread to the Wildood master . The reducer is available to purchase biut not in stock at many stores FYI either order ahead of time or make your own if you have the means to. I suggest using as little threaded rod as possible and this set up does just that and allows for plenty of adjustment. I also removed the clutch pedal to straighten out the rod tab as prior manual clutch geometry issues resulted in bending it. I then welded solid beads on all sides where the rod tab mates to the pedal arm and reinstalled that. After a nice long test drive it proved so far to be working perfectly and I can drive with confidence.:TU: The photo makes it appear the hitch pin is rubbing the brake light switch but in reality there is over 1/2" of clearance; nothing rubs or interferes with each other so it is a success! 6/1/2015: As planned I fabricated the adjustable firewall mount for the master cylinder modeled after the American Powertrain piece. The outside firewall mount plate and inside backing reinforcing plate mimic the shape and mounting thru holes of the factory boot retainer so utilizing longer 1/4" coarse thread screws to mount the master from the outside extend inside and use the three nuts welded to the firewall plate. Three additional 1/4" nuts on the inside secured to the extended screws mount the inside reinforcing plate to sandwich the firewall opening and make for a clean and very rigid install. I hope this is enough to prevent tearing of the firewall over time of repeated pedal pressure. Mounted the master and set up the pedal push rod. There is 2" of stroke and pedal travel ratio appears to be spot on 5:1 ratio. Next was setting up the Mcleod 1300-1 TO bearing. After unbolting the outer bearing collar I gained access to the bearing retainer oil slinger nut. This needs to be resized from 1.98" to 1.80" per Mcleod spec. I marked the excess material with sharpie and went at it with 80 grit on the belt sander measuring constantly, then reinstalled it using some loctite. I opted aginst purchasing the Muncie Wrench for $45, and just made a crude "wrench" for that nut which is ~ 1-5/8" opening using the 3/16" plate stock. (Note that it is reverse thread). Using some new allen head bolts about 1/4" longer than bolts removed for the collar, a little ATV silicon and the gasket, the TO Bearing is installed and ready to go. Once installed I put some rubber shields on the -4 lines as added protection inside the bell housing. Last chore yesterday was to install new oilite pilot bushing, assemble clutch and bell housing and measure for proper clearance between TO bearing and clutch fingers. Per Mcleod spec looking for min = 0.1" max = .250". I measured 0.136" which is good to go. The AN lines are plumbed from the master to the remote reservoir and to the awaiting trans. Next step next Sunday will be to complete the long block assembly, install trans and drop it back into the awaiting engine bay.
Update: After about 6 hours running, the rings were not seating in the 462, and leak down was ~12%-15% each hole, so I pulled it out and have it apart and in the caring hand of Dean Kaufman. I am looking for dependable ~525 horse / 580 torque N/A, and the 125 shot Nitrous loving build. We're going to line bore and deck the block ~.010 in the hole, and take the heads down to 67cc, and use .027 Cometics gaskets to get a solid 10:1 SCR. I am taking advantage of the engine being out for some upgrades this winter. I also made some track and tech improvements over the weekend: 1) The 1970 factory tach is at Instrument Services getting an Autometer circuit board in it and calibrated and should be back in a couple weeks. 2) The TAYLOR trunk battery box is installed and, 3) The MOROSO battery disconnect switch is installed and wired 4) I opted to put the NOS Kenne Bell flex fan on the shelf and modified / fabricated mounting brackets to install the DERALE electric fan into the 70 repop factory fan shroud. It is wired and ready. I am pleased with the fit and finish. 5) I utilized the fan mount to relocate the Robb Mc 40 micron fuel filter and made a new line from the filter to the regulator 6) I utilized the other side of the fan mount to install the polished aluminum coolant catch can 6) I opted to change iron manifold to maximize performance of the build. I am going to run the Jet Hot coated Dougs headers Gary sold me, so will be revising the pipes to the X over to accommodate next weekend so its ready to drop in the mill and go. That's it for today...Cheers!
Nice!! (Well, except for the excessive leakdown part, that stinks) You're engine goals are so very close to mine its scary. I need to look into having instrument services do a tach for me as well. I bought a repop that's almost as useful as the empty filler plate it replaced...
Hey Shawn, I agree, we seem to be in parallel planes in the BUICK universe....it'd be fun to get these cars together one day...
Nice work I look forward to seeing you get that new rear end in there... I am debating which aftermarket rear end to put in my turbo lark.
I forgot to note I sent the QJet to Mark a few weeks ago and asked him to go through it and set up the rods, jets and hangars taylored for the coming build. I didn't pay to have him replate everything and you can see how Nitrous takes its toll on the surface. This carb was replated to show quality by Dave K restored it a couple years ago. Nitrous did not run through it until less than one year ago. The Nitrous system utilizes nozzles I installed to inject directly into the secondry throats... Here is the Qjet as it looks now awaiting the call to duty... Here is the same carb after Dave K restored it about 4 years ago but keep in mind it did not get put into service until I put it on the Street Sleeper a March of 2014
Happy New Year 2016! Since the last update for posterity, I have been focussing on the build specs for the new mill and the Street Sleeper. I am staying with the lower compression TRW pistons since the bottom end is already balanced. The block has been through the machine shop. Ready for assembly. The SCR should be 9.6:1 and the aluminum heads will act like around 9:1. This should be a nice street driver and get really pissed off when called to duty and the 150 wet shot will make up for the lack of ECR...... The TA 212 decided to eat into the face of the block, my guess is at break in, the overheating along with the rings. So, machined the block for a cam thrust bearing, took the deck down to set height to 0.020" in the hole, honed bores with torque plates, line checked, new main, crank, cam and rod bearings going in. The timing cover and oil pump will be worked to spec to assure prime oil delivery. Bullet Racing has a custom grind for the mill, 228*/233* x 0.525"/0.530" on a 112 with 4* in it for 108 ICL ground Friday. They have some Johnson Lifters on the way with it. As soon as TA gets stock in (Feb??) , a set of Stage 1 Street Eliminators will be worked over for serious flow and some rollers will top off the mill. I can not bring myself to part with the Kenne Bell Valve covers so they are waiting for action; they look toooooo good. The current rear end is not worth building, so I am definately going with the Quick Performance GM 9" rear. $2,600 complete and delivered to the garage is the best price for an indestructible rear end; I am not sure yet on 3.5 or 3.7 gears. I do love the 4.11 but with this build probably too much....I need to decide soon on the rear gear and order it. I am staying with the 28.5" tires I do have a new 8517 MSD distributor ready to go and also sent mine to MSD for a rebuild so extra one on the shelf.... As for work on the Skylark, I dry fit the Dougs JetHot Coated Headers to set up the exhaust for engine drop in. Tomorrow I plan to cut the pipes and fit the headers in. Today, I also replaced the analog Auto Meter AF Gauge with the Auto Meter 31-4110. I installed the AM gauge cup with some double baclk tape on the gauge side only for padding against the A Pillar trim, used a longer screw in the factory location, ran the wires in behind the A pillar trim and mounted the Autometer 31-4110 cleanly. sensor in the X pipe... The Radio delete has been fitted and wired with the racing operation controls. The indicator lights for the Autometer Pro Light water temp and oil pressure sending unit signals, The Hurst Line Lock indicator light and Nitrous activation indicator light. The Nitrous Arm, Bottle Heater, and Derale Fan overide Switches. I am having a vinyl wrap made for the face plate to clean it up. Later...
I think I would call monzaz guy up and ask him to price you a nine inch. He made mention he could sell them at a good price. He is a board supporter and from his posts a good guy to boot. Jdrace.com I LOVE the kb valve covers. The only other after market ones I'd want are a pair of edelbrock. Keep up the good work. On a side note I brought my GS up to our house. The guy who was letting me keep it at his place had a stroke and his brother is somewhat of a tool so we lost storage. Oh well, moving forward. It's a beater and I hope one of these days it will be as nice as yours.
Street Sleeper Update time.... Heads are done. Flow = 340+/- x 240+/- :TU: Ordering the built QP 9" 3.7 gear tomorrow. Still on the fence with the twin disc McLeod but leaning heavily that way as I won't need another clutch as long as I drive it. Later.
I decided to upgrade to Aluminum center section and new fabricated housing, stronger and lighter!!!! The Quick Performance 9" Rear is ordered. I am re-using my rear backing plates & drum brakes which are essentially new, so that saved some coin. OH YEAH!! Here is a summary of the build- // 1970 Skylark / 550 HP + 25-100 shot / street & strip // $745 Custom built 9" housing & axle package for 68-72 GM A body car $100 Upgrade to new, fabricated housing center piece (10 lbs lighter / 25-30% stronger) $55 Drain and fill plugs with jack pad $30 Upgrade to 1/4" heavy walled axle tube $75 Billet steel housing ends with oil seal surface (GM 10/12 style drums) $1319 All new aluminum through bolt center section with 35 spline locker, 1350 series billet yoke, Aluminum Daytona pinion support & 3.70 ratio ring & pinion $130 ups ground shipping Grand total delivered = $2454
Agreed, Jim is top shelf and I did speak with him about a 9. He only personally builds GM rears and I wouldn't think twice to have him build me a GM posi. I chose to go with Mike at QP for a 9".
