1972 Skylark Restoration(Lots of Pics)

The Parts Place has a fairly good reputation from what I've heard. I bought my floor mats and ram air foam seals from them. Personality plus they are not, so know what you want when you call because I found my conversations with them quite sterile. Then again, I think almost every place is like that, so it's a good idea to know what you want when you call anywhere and just give a part number. And what do you mean by "inner fender to firewall mount"? Where's the picture of this wonderful discovery? :laugh: You mean like the raised square pad? Don't tell me that's rusted too. ou:

 

Yes, it didn't rust off though there is a clean space where it should be. Unfortunately I looked at it a while ago and don't remember exactly how to describe it but I'll take a picture later today. I was unsure if they were bolted on or welded on. In all reality though it shouldn't be a major issue, I would just like to know where to find a replacement, otherwise I'll just fab something up.

I emailed the parts place so I will wait for their reply before ordering the patch, I'll probably order the core support piece now as well as the bushings and battery tray from OPG. Later I'll work out with my friend on what he wants to charge to weld up the patches, it'll probably be $50

 

Try to plan your purchases and get as much stuff from the same place at one time to save shipping. These places will nickel and dime you to death with the shipping. I had my ram air foam seals and floor mats from Parts Place shipped in same box and one time to save shipping.

 

Hey, Jacob. We're just trying to help you, not rain on your parade. Most of us have already been down a similar road to the one you're trying to go down. It's one thing to find a car than needs more work than what it will be worth when it's done, but certainly a different thing to start on something that will never even make it over the hump. To get your car over the hump, it's gonna take another car's worth of parts, labor, and money. Maybe two more cars worth. That's all we're trying to say here.

Just for reference, I paid less than 10K for my '72. Click on the link in my signature to see the photos of it. Not even a completely rust-free car could be restored to the same condition for the same money. I know you don't have 10K right now, but if you continue down the road you're on, you'll never have 10K. And really, you're gonna find later on in life that 10K isn't really a ton of money, unless you've lost it in a bad way. That's the other thing we're trying to say.

Perhaps the only thing we can hope for you at this point is that the lesson(s) of a poor decision down that road isn't ignored to the degree that good advice is now.

Wish you the best, Jacob! :TU:

 

Restoring this car is a bad idea. No problem, don't restore it.

Make it safe, drive it and enjoy it. You'll make out fine if you view this car as an enjoyable, low risk way to learn if this hobby is for you.

I agree with some earlier posts that suggest you get a welder and basic bodyworking tools. You could spend $10k or more getting the body professionally restored. Or, you can learn to shape metal and weld patches. When the rust is gone a Maaco paint job will make it all one color. Spending money for perfect repro interior panels doesn't make sense. You could hunt for a reasonable used interior or you can buy some vinyl and see if interior work sparks your interest. There are inexpensive ways to do most things. Spend your money on items that affect safety. A solid frame, correctly working suspension and brakes are not optional.

This board is loaded with information on how to tackle projects on your own. Study them and decide if you want to give it a try.

I recommend you find a mechanic you can trust and have him give you an honest evaluation of what it will take to make the car safe to run. Do that work first so you can drive it.

If you keep the end goal in mind you won't waste a lot of money. This is a starter car. It's something for you to enjoy and learn on. When it's reached it's potential sell it and buy the next car.

Good Luck and let us know how you progress
John

 

More or less that is what I am going to do:gp: I don't want to completely rule out making this car nice since I really don't want to sell it but for now I am going to focus on making it drivable and safe. Then after that weatherproof, then some performance =] I want a weekend racer that I can drive around whenever I choose and be proud of. While I can't say I won't restore it, I say this because I don't want to put this car together with the idea of selling it the whole time. Its like a teen relationship, do you really want to think about the end even though you know its coming? That or I'll just have tons of cars ad a big garage and I won't have to only have 2:bla: Hey I can dream can't I?

 

I am a glutton for punishment what can I say?:gp:

 

I might have some of your harder to find body parts when the time comes. I'm tossing a shell in a couple weeks- take pics of the areas you need and I'll see what I can do to help. I agree with almost everyone else though- Take the money you have saved- save a little more, and keep looking. As soon as you spend all your cash on parts, 4 cheap cars wil pop up on Craigslist- believe it!! You might have to travel a little ways south to find em, but they're around. There' more than one way to skin a cat, some are less gory than others...

 

Like this one!!


71 Buick skylark 2 restore - $1300 (austell)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 2010-05-23, 7:42AM EDT
Reply to: sale-jccxq-1755046311@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Please read before you email us all the answers are on the post .
Up for sale so someone can restore is a 1971 buick Skylark .It will start & run but you can not drive it due to NO front seats No smoke No leaks .
The Good
Motor rebuild/I would replace the belts
floor panels has no holes
will need a headliner ,front seats and seat belts this would make a good project to restore $1300 firm We're not taking offers any lower than 1300 we've dropped the price from 2000
No scammers Please No shipping. Don't send me any other website information .
Bad
You will need to tow this car due to no seats or seat belts
It has a dent in the hood
Trunk lock is missing
Body has some bumps in it .it ain't perfect one rust spot near the drivers front fender
Since we are a salvage yard we can help you located the parts to restore it .
If you have questions and I didn't answer them here please email me when the car is sold we will take down the AD
We are tired of people playing games if you don't have the money or you have to ask your wife if you can buy it then don't waste our time . I have it posted on a classic car site for more money
* Location: Austell email with any questions. Serious inquiry's only No BS Nice car with loads of potential. 1st come 1st serve. Will not hold car for anyone or any reason.
The price is firm no open to offers. This ad will run until the car is sold so please don't email and ask if the car is still for sale .......Once again you can not drive the car because it has no seats or seat belts



Location: austell
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

 

Or this one....

1972 BuickSkylark GS fire engine red, sunroof. The car will not crank because it needs an ignition. The motor and transmission is good. The CAR IS A FIXER-UPPER. The body & interior is in good condition. The car has to be moved because i'm moving!!!! I am asking 1200.00 obo. SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You may contact Tonya @ 678-992-3228. Those are the best I can do with the pictures because the car is garaged and the space is limited but you can come see the car.


Location: College Park, Ga
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

 

or more in your neck in the woods....

Up for sale is a 1971 Buick Skylark,,,,,
Project car,
455 engine,
2 door body style.
Nice interior,
G S hood,
Solid body, ( couple of small dents,, very little surface rust,,, NO rust holes.. )
This car has been garaged since 1985.
This car would make a great winter project.
Asking $3500.00.
For questions,,,,
Contact Richard @ (607)732-3725 after 5 PM on week days,,,, any time on week ends.

 

or this one...except for the 283 under the hood...
Here you have a 1968 Buick Skylark completely rebuilt in the summer of 2004. Car was born in Arizona and made its way to NY 10 years ago. I purchased in 2006. The motor is very fresh with less than 3000 miles on it. Car runs very strong and is extremely solid overall. Car does need some cosmetic work. But It's the perfect car to cruise in while you finish her looks. The mechanical work has all been finished, and this car can drive anywhere. It will need nothing to start cruising the minute you bring it home. See below for more info and specs.

******Contact Mike @ (315) 751-4444 (during the day) or (315) 934-4370 (after 6PM)*************

-Well-built '59 date code small block 283 Chevy motor; punched .060 over
-Less than 3000 miles on drive train
-Dome pistons

------DRIVETRAIN - ENGINE---------

*SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE 1959 DATE CODE 283ci *T&W DOME PISTONS *NEW WORLD HEADS *76CC CAST IRON WIRES *HARLAND SHARP ROLLER ROCKERS *COMP CAM 292: 501 LIFT
*NEW ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR *NEW ACCEL HEADER PLUGS *EDELBROCK 750 CARB. *MATCHING BILLET VALVE COVERS & AIR CLEANER *POWDER COATED HEADERS *3" EXHAUST WITH CUTOFFS AT REAR END *MOTOR RUNS COOL - NEVER BREAKS 185 DEGREES

-----------TRANSMISSION-----------
*TH350, COMPLETELY REBUILT IN 2004 *3000 STALL CONVERTER *B&M Z-GATE SHIFTER *NEW B&M SHIFTER CABLE INSTALLED *DRIVESHAFT COMPLETELY SERVICED W/ NEW JOINTS INSTALLED

----------REAR END--------------------
*12 BOLT, 3:90 GEARS

----------INTERIOR---------------------
*NEW CARPET INSTALLED * B&M Z-GATE SHIFTER *SUNPRO TACH MOUNTED ON STEERING COLUMN *SUNPRO CHROME 3 GAUGE SETUP MOUNTED ON BOTTOM OF DASH *FLOORS ARE SOLID AS ANY AZ CAR SHOULD BE (SEE PICS BELOW) *BACK SEAT IN GREAT CONDITION *FRONT SEATS FROM 69 FIREBIRD (DRIVER SEAT HAS TEAR, BUT PASSENGER SEAT IS IN GOOD CONDITION) *FRONT AND REAR SEATS COME WITH SEAT COVERS BUT THE REST OF THE INTERIOR WILL NEED AN OVERHAUL

--------------EXTERIOR----------------
*BODY OVERALL IN SOLID CONDITION, MOST OF CHROME IS OFF BUT HAVE TO GO WITH CAR. WILL NEED DRIVER QUARTER (SEE PIC) LOOKS LIKE IT WAS HIT SLIGHTLY ON DRIVER REAR CORNER AND THEN COVERED WITH PLASTIC (WAS LIKE THAT WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR)
*FENDERS, DOORS, DECK LID, ROOF, PASSENGER QUARTER, AND HOOD ALL SOLID
*PAINTED WITH ONE FLAT COAT OF BASE COAT (NOT SURE WHY- WAS LIKE THAT WHEN I PURCHASED)

-----------UNDERNEATH------------
NO ROT OR MAJOR RUST ANYWHERE, VERY SOLID * HAS GOODYEAR EAGLE GTII 23560R15 ON FRONT & 27560R15 ON REAR *WELD DRAGLITE WHEELS *DISC BRAKE SETUP FROM 72 CUTLASS INSTALLED *NEEDS BOOSTER *NO HOP BARS INSTALLED FOR TRACK PURPOSES *SOLID TRUNK *DUAL BATTERY SETUP IN TRUNK, INSTALLED FOR TRACK PURPOSES *NEW FULE LINES *FRONT END IS TIGHT

 

So you see where I'm going with this...patience...

 

Honestly Craigslist is a dangerous place, not because it is actually physically dangerous but because it is a horrible place to spend ones time. You could find anything there. That is all well and good but when you finally pull the trigger on a purchase, the next day you will find something better for cheaper. There are tons of cars I'd love to have I'm not picky, camaro, firebird, regal, nova, I'd almost consider a mustag too. Heck a few years ago I was going to put a blown 3.8 into my grandmothers ciera. I grow to love anything I put time and effort into. If I don't stick with something I'll never have a good project car. We own Buicks, these aren't cheap cars, these aren't Chevys. If I wanted to save time and money I'd buy a camaro and stuff a 383 in there. I don't care about money, this is the car I have and this is the car I am fixing. You car lovers, you racers, you mechanics, should be saving these cars, not picking and choosing to make a buck. No matter what shape the car I have is in It'll never be worth more than I put into it. Hell, half the valuable cars in the world are worth just a hare over what they cost brand new when they were built thanks to inflation.

I mean no offense by that, I understand some people are trying to help.

The internet is the last place to go for opinions, I am a member here for the facts and nothing more. Even the 'facts' I decide for myself if they are valid. Call me ignorant all day long.

Also if your car falls apart because you put a new rear in it or even a 455 then I wouldn't be blaming the car:TU:

Now again, I am here for help on where I should start with the body work and maybe some advice on what I should try myself and what should be saved for a pro. If I keep getting lectures I'll just delete the thread.

 

You won't have to worry about this guys opinion anymore. Good luck in your quest.

 

Your opinion is welcome, I didn't mean to insult you, I am just speaking of craigslist in general, I have done alot of wheeling and dealing there :dollar:

 

You are ignoring the facts the members are telling you. You are ignoring the help that you say you are here for.

If this was the last Skylark on earth, then yes it should be saved. But that fact is its not, Buick made a ton of them, and there are still many left that are in better condition than yours.

You make the point of them "being Buicks and not being cheap cars..." You are making a bad situation worse by stating with this car. Know how to make it cheaper and save money? FIND A BETTER CAR TO WORK ON!

 

He obviously has a connection to this car and he's sticking with it. He's been advised of the risks on this one, and if need be, y'all can give him an "I told you so" if it overtakes him. But for now, let's give up on all the name calling and give the man a hand here. Cool? o No:

 

Easy guys,

We don't have enough information about the him or the car to assume he'll be driving it as a deathtrap. Part of the problem is this thread is in "Color is everything" when paint and bodywork need to come after the mechanical work.

He's heard the opinion that there are better choices for starting material. All of us have been given good advice that money spent on an old car is not a sound financial investment. We've decided to not heed that advice, because this is our hobby. He's decided to stick with what he has so let's get some more information and answer the questions he asks.

He knows we strongly beleive that job 1 is to make the car safe and mechanically sound. Evaluating a car and creating a realistic plan for work is an important part of the hobby.

I agree that there are better starting points. I've seen nice cars come from worse situations. The danger is real, it's very tempting to drive a car before it's safe and it puts others at risk not just yourself. We don't know if you have or will do that so you deserve the benefit of the doubt.

I would suggest you have someone with experience check out the frame of the car. If the frame is bad then I'd recommend letting it go because a frame swap is likely to be beyond your skills and finances. If you've got a solid base then you need to make a thorough list of what needs to be done. This is not a map to the final state of the car. Start with what needs to be done to get it legally and safely on the road.

Once you have a project list we can help you determine what you can tackle and what you should leave for professionals. Once you have a plan you can make an informed decision about whether to begin or not.

John

 

Thank you:gp:

The guys at S.G. performance have checked out the car before they gave it to me so it is definitely safe and sound. In fact Vinny, the previous owner, had planned on restoring it before he gave it to me. He had lots of NOS parts on it bad had to sell them when he lost his job. That and alot of parts were used on my friend robs chevelle.

I am buying patches tomorrow, then the driveshaft and some trans work. Some patches on the holes to hold off until I replace the panels and I was wondering what you guys feel would be the best route to stave off further rusting. The inner fenders and core support will get a por15 mix of paint after welding. I was thinking just sanding, priming and going flat black. I am no paint expert and I am not looking for this to be pretty. I just want this to be something to protect the car until I have the cash for real body work. Rattle cans, cheap paint, I have a decent compressor and spray gun so either would work. I am torn on eventually doing the original cascade blue or redoing the vintage red it is done up in currently.

Anyways, after the patches and trans work the car is safe to drive. Brakes are solid, Steering is smooth, all lights work. The rear windshield has to go in and I have to install the pass side quarter window. The carb is acting up and I see no reason to rebuild a 2bbl when I have a 4bbl intake i was given and I am buying a quadrajet.