About the trans, had the 200 4r rebuilt about 4 1/2 yrs ago n had been sitting all that time w/o fluid. Used original torq converter. Before starting rebuilt 455 added 8 quarts of trans fluid.. So car did back up with low x-fluid. After adding more fluid, seeing on dipstick, shifting trans to D or R, caused the car to lurch n car stalled. To me, this seems like the torq converter maybe Locked? So, removed a a few quarts of fluid n this resolved the lurching n stall issue. Add one quart with no issuse. Added another n the the converter seems to be grabbing a little without stalling. Dipstick does not read full. Anyone have any Ideas why this is happening? Cause of Trans symptoms? Thanks Denis
Hey Denis, I'll be watching this thread - I have a 200-4R in the garage waiting for my project to get off the ground. I noticed you live near Orlando. Are you planning to attend the BOPC show at Old Town on October 22nd? Best Wishes,
Forgot to add that currently no 12v power to the trans, not connected. Joe, I was going but change of plans. Have relatives coming down for that weekend n they want to go elsewhere... So going with the flow.. o No:
Unless you have a VERY early 200-4r (81; 82), you have an electrically engaged lockup via solenoid switch. This is not to say that there may be an internal hydraulic problem in the circuit. Your torque converter may be too low of a stall rating. (You did say "stock" but did not specify what it was out of). Stall varies with the engine output. That is why the trans companies need your engine statistics to recommend a torque converter. PLEASE do lots or research both here on v8buick, and other sources like shops, before you DESTROY your transmission. 200-4R's (and any other TV cable operated trans are NOT forgiving for misadjustments.
Greetings... What cam are you running in the car? What is your idle speed set at? My 74 Century has a 455(poston 113) with a 200-4r and the stock converter thats in there has to stall somewhere around 1700rpm o No: . Idles right around 850-900 rpms, but lurches when in drive/at lights because of the converter's stall and my choice of cam. Running low on trans fluid(not purposely) would reduce the lurching, but the trans is "slipping" when in drive. thealchemist12(milt)
You need to do the the 12v to the trans. If I remember correctly I ran the green wire to my brake light switch to brake the currant other wise it would stay locked up and stall.:3gears: This was 10 years ago so I may be wrong but I am sure somebody will corect Me:TU:
Have you got TV cable hooked up correctly? That is very important on those. You can fry the clutches if its not set correctly.
Cam is TA 310. So, if trans is not currently connected to 12 volts, this may cause the converter to stay locked? As of yet, I have not run any power to the trans. Thanks Denis
Steve to answer ur question it came out of an 86 Monte Carlo SS. I pulled the pan this evening n noticed he built it for nonlock-up. There is no lock-up solinoid, thus, no internal wiring. Again, was rebuilt years ago n I had forgotten. So does anyone think that the original converter is bad causing the lock-up? And if I replace the converter will this solve my problem? Thanks Denis
The lock up functions when 12 volts is applied to the TCC solenoid. You say your 2004R has neither the solenoid or wiring. Without that TCC solenoid and 12 volts I don't see how it could be operating? Where do you have your idle set at and what size cam? If its a big one you might not have your idle set high enough? What stall speed convertor was put into that 2004R? Also are you positive the TV cable is set correctly?
If the torque converter was truly locked, it would feel like dumping a clutch on a stick car. Can you get it to run in gear at all? A stock converter for a v8 probably stalls lower than the v6 or GN converters would. I have a turbo200-4R, idle at 800, have a 2200 stall and it drops in gear with about a 100RPM loss with little or no harshness. I had a SP turbo 400 with a stock converter and it would idle at 800, drop at least 200RPM on high stall and require a little throttle on low stall or it would kill the engine. Even at high stall it felt harsh going into gear. Your mileage may vary.
I know when I put mine back together, I used a special grease to hold the check balls in place. Could it be that they are now stuck, because of the time it has sat? The trans fluid should loosen them up, but time seems to harden most grease? o No:
Get the rear end off the ground and put it three the gears manually to see what it does. It may not even be the trans, sometimes you never know but either way you'll need to work the air out of the system.
In a normal lockup trans you must apply 12V to the solenoid to activate the lockup so without voltage it would unlock. Normally when you remove the lockup feature you use a regular converter with no clutch in it at all. The main reason to not use the lockup feature is to be able to use a lighter converter which may or may not allow the car to go faster. Why did you reuse the stock converter? Were you suppossed to use the stock converter? You may need the special converter type mentioned above. This sounds a bit iffy if you still have the lockup factory(?) converter in there. Where the solenoid went into the pump housing did the trans guy plug it up. If there is no solenoid in there and it is an open hole it may allow fluid to go to where it doesn't belong and that may be activating the clutch. Are you sure the guy just didn't forget to put the wiring back in. When you say it lurches does it immediately stall out? Can you keep it running in gear with your foot on the brake and giving it some gas. That 310 cam is just big enough to make life with a stock converter pretty miserable. When you drop it into gear it would tend to stall. A carb will be hard to tune to keep it running at idle in gear with the tight stock converter.
Mike, Yes car lurches/stalls instantly when foot is brake n placed into gear. As of yet, haven"t tried to remove foot from brake n step on gas. Feels as though converter is locked up. And yes, the stock 1986 converter is in there. yes the solinoid housing does have a plug. So, last nite took nonlocking trans out n replaced the stock locking converter with another locking converter without any changes. Still stalls when placed in gear. SO...my question is "do I need a non-locking converter for a nonlocking trans???" Would this fix my stalling issue if the TV cable is adjusted properly?? Thanks Denis
Converter must match the trans and engine to work right. Kinda like matching pushrods to camshafts. Also make sure the TV cable is set right or it'll blow up the trans. Did you make sure the vaccuum port that used to go to the modulator is plugged? If that's open than you'll have a vac leak which can cause issues too.
If the converter was locked, I'd expect it to be violent when you dropped it in gear and either immediately kill the motor to start turning the rear tires. I like the previous idea of getting it on jack stands and seeing how it acts without and load, going through the gears. Does reverse act this way?
