215 no oil pressure

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by Nesmith, Feb 14, 2020.

  1. Nesmith

    Nesmith Well-Known Member

    Ok car ran fine (oil light out of corse & 30 + plus on gauge ) has 33,000 then parked with clean oil & antifreeze in an attach garage since 02 ok took plugs out put Gibbs oil in cyls. & intake turned by hand next day cranked the lengthiest time you should and did this a couple of times over a few days And no presser !! i can't find a strate answer that pertains to what i wrote above so there must be a simple ( i hope ) answer i know from working on buicks to put oil in filter after changing it ! but this was running fine ! so please any ideas / help Thanks
     
  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    Oil pump lost the prime in 17 years time. (by the way, does the oil light come one with key on, and while cranking?)
    If you have a filter without an oil anti-drainback valve, you may get lucky if you pull the filter, top it off and put it back on and try cranking again.

    After 17 years setting, I would not crank the engine anymore than you have, except to try one more time after filling the filter. (unless you already did try filling the filter)

    Mark the distributor housing at the block so you can put it back in on that exact spot (clocking).
    Pull the cap and lay a straight edge across the rotor and make a mark on the engine so that you can get the rotor back in that exact position.

    Then, pull the distributor, notice where the shaft for the oil pump at the bottom of the hole for the distributor so you can set it there after priming. Use a "priming tool" (should be able to find one locally at auto parts store, or order one online) in a drill and run it clockwise until you get oil pressure. It may take a minute or two. (while the distributor is out, DO NOT rotate the engine/crank until you get the distributor back in). If you do, you will need to set the engine to TDC on the number 1 cylinder and reset timing. (just more work)

    If you get pressure, set the oil pump shaft to where the slot was as mentioned above, then hold the distributor in the same orientation with your mark on the distributor aligned with the mark on the block, then rotate the rotor counter clockwise about 1/8 a turn, from the mark with the straightedge, then slip the housing in the hole, as the gear engages the cam, the rotor will want to move clockwise and if you have everything close, it should drop back in to the original orientation, mark on housing and block should line up and rotor should be same as it was with the straight edge. If so, put the cap on, tighten the hold down, and you should be able to fire it up. (hopefully, you are using fresh fuel, anything older than a year may be too stale to start)

    If you cannot get a prime, you may have to pull the end plate off the pump and pack the housing with petroleum jelly to get the pump to prime. If so, post back as you may want input on doing that before you start.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
    woody1640 likes this.
  3. Nesmith

    Nesmith Well-Known Member

    Wow thank you for all that info. ok i have been working on engines for 60 years and i guess this style eng. would do that after all those years siting ok before i laid it up i had installed a set of gauges + left the idiot light in line too i did a considerable cranking with plugs out over a couple of days so thats why i was so concerned that something weird went wrong ok now that tool is that a general tool ? or something pacific to theses engines ? also i always use a gas can hooked to the fuel pump & or if the mechanical pump is bad then an electric i did leave it with a full to top with gas but we all know that 17 year old gas is only good to clean parts if you can stand the smell ! lol ok will keep you posted as its turned Very cold here in NY Thanks again
     
  4. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    If it were me, I would disconnect the fuel line at the pump, use a gas can and fresh gas to start the car, and after, drain the gas tank and use fresh gas and draw fuel from the body line until clear, then reconnect it to the fuel pump.

    No way would I put 17 year old gas in an engine I want to keep running. The few dollars and time are worth that effort.

    The issue with the oil system loosing prime is twofold. One is the pump not being on the bottom of the block in the sump and only having to draw a few inches, but being up and at the front of the block and having to draw oil almost 3 feet from the pick up to the pump gears. Second is the oil filter is on its side, and if a filter is used without the anti-drainback valve, it will loose oil from siphon/drainback, as the near 3 foot column of oil will "pull" the oil back over time, and you are trying to spin an engine that has been sitting for a long time at a very low RPM, and trying to get that thick cold oil all the way to the pump.

    You can get an oil pump primer tool for about $20-$30 at many autopart stores. If you mark and pull your distributor, and take it with you, you can measure the tool at the store. Most are "universal" with a sliding collar (stepped or tapered) to center the tool.

    And Buicks, with the distributor up front, make it pretty easy.

    I've done heavy maintenance in some pretty cold and nasty weather, so I know that drill. [​IMG]

    Keep us posted. :)
     
  5. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    One of the things I have done in the past on these timing case cover mounted oil pumps & this goes for AMC/Jeep as well. I remove the oil filter & squirt oil from an oil can into the outlet of the pump while spinning the dizzy counter clockwise. This usually sucks the oil into the pump thereby priming it. IF it doesn't suck in the oil the 1st. time try again. It usually works for myself every time. Even with an oil pump in the pan. Before installing the pump prime it with the method above so you DON'T have to take the pump apart to prime it. WORKS EVERY TIME.

    Tom T.
     
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  6. Nesmith

    Nesmith Well-Known Member

    Guys thanks all is great info. yesterday it was warm here now in this section & then in another heading here gave me one of the ideas i had to try that root as i do not like to take apart anything more that i have to and being such low mileage so i took the oil line to the gauge off at the tee i put in with retaining the idiot pressure sender & with my trusty marvel mystery oil with a hose & a funnel put oil in turned engine back & forth ( by hand ) & slowly saw the oil go in did it a couple of times then the next day one more then put line on & cranked ( with plugs out ) the oil light went out & the gauge managed to go up to just under 20 did this a few times it turned cold here again so with 50 this sunday will go for a start and don't worry i know from a very young age about bad gas as my farther with his 34 Packard would drain it out & put some in our then modern cars to get rid of it i alway use a gas can to the fuel pump if it still works if not an electric anyway will fill in wen i get it running Thanks
     
  7. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    At least it is going in the right direction on getting results.

    If you have pressure building, that is a good thing.

    (if it is only an issue with the gauge reading correctly, sue to air in the line from the block to the gauge)

    In some cases, the oil line to the gauge needs to be bled. (get a handful of rags/paper towels) and take the line off the back of the gauge and hold it in the pile of rags/paper towels, crank the engine, or start the car and as soon as the oil pushes the air out of the line, shut of the engine, reconnect and you should be good to go.
     
  8. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    A modification to the one I use & it worked for you. so glad
     
  9. Nesmith

    Nesmith Well-Known Member

    Ok guys success ! found out it had a duel point dist. cleaned points also engine fuel pump failed so rigged up an electric pump to gas can never saw gas squirt in carb tapped it a few times but went ahead did final cranking oil lite out & gauge reading then put plugs in set chock & idol speed and it went right off carb starting leaking tap it a few times & stopped the leak i let it run till temp high 200 rad never steam over just very light steam from it but shut it down Sat. the colder day got the front brake bleeders lose there was no fluid in master so i put that 90% alcohol then mop it out used a qutip in the low spots refilled let gravity bleed out drivers wheel over nite with brake peddle held down with 2x4 sun. put brake fluid in as most drain thru then closed bleeder will deal with that & a gas tank full of 17 year old gas ! lol it will be use a parts cleaner ! lol Again thanks for all the good ideas
     

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