# 3 rod bearing spun

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Mark Demko, Mar 19, 2017.

  1. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I got to the #3 rod bearing in my bearing replacement and BAM, that don't look good:shock:
    Never had a spun bearing, at least now I know they squeak when their spun:eek:
    This happened after my VERY short ride after my install of my roller cam, and I noticed the crappy oil pressure when I got home, AND the intermittent squeaking from the engine.
    I have another 10/10 crank, my original block ( a .030 over '71) that has the provision for the factory windage tray, which the '78 block doesn't have.
    Set of resized cap screw rods with TA 10 to 1 pistons.
    My original '71 heads and '78 heads
    Oh, and my new roller cam, new TA timing cover and pump cover.
    Out the engine comes.
    I'm thinking Auto Tec pistons too, I've read a lot about 'em on here, and my pistons are cast.
    Take my block, rods, crank and heads to Michaels in Macedonia and have him check everything, and do what needs to be done.
    I did give the TA aluminum heads a thought, hmmmmmmm, maybe:pp
     
  2. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA


    Now would be a great time to upgrade your rods as well if for anything a bit of insurance and so you can crank up the RPMs if in you wanted to without worrying?!!

    TA has those Molnar rods that are supposed to be direct drop ins, or there is the nascar take out option as well. Spin to win, it don't pay if you don't play! :Brow:

    You have the option of stroking with the nascar rods or do like gsjohnny did and run the stock stroke and spin the snot out of it, dealers choice. I personally love the extra torque of a big cube small block though. When it comes to HP the only replacement for displacement is RPM! Spin to win or crank up the cubes.

    A little 358 nascar engine can make 850 HP BUT that is spinning that engine to 9 or 10K! Increase the cubes and you lower where the engine peaks.

    With your .010" 010" crank you could get an extra .130" more stroke with a set of nascar take out rods. Seeing how you're thinking of using the AutoTec pistons anyway, the take out rods would be a great addition no matter what bore or stroke you want to go with. :TU:



    Derek
     
  3. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I'll probably be GS-less this season, so I do have time to do a "Specific" build, instead of a stock type build and then pushing the engine.
    What I do want,
    Forged pistons
    More compression
    Balanced
    The rods I was thinking about too, I really didn't like spinning the stockers to 6 grand, I'd feel better with forged:grin:
    I was on the Auto Tec site and I didn't see any listing for Buick, do you have to call?
     
  4. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    I think Scott Brown may sell them exclusively? Here is the link to his store;


    http://www.buyracingparts.com/

    Here is the link to the sbb 350 pistons;

    http://www.buyracingparts.com/pisto...stons/autotec-forged-350-buick-pistons-1.html

    Flat top or inverted dome, dealers choice.



    Derek
     
  5. got_tork

    got_tork Well-Known Member

    Mark are interested in a completely stock 350?I have one in the garage taking up space.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
     
  6. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    E-mail Scotty Brown for best results... I will PM you the email.

    Have the shop measure your deck height so you can order pistons to get you 40-50 thou quench distance between the head and piston. They come with the valve reliefs to match the TA heads. They do a custom dish and compression height all no extra charge.
     
  7. clutchracer

    clutchracer Well-Known Member

    That sucks Mark. Michael is always busy. My build took a while.
     
  8. Extended Power

    Extended Power Well-Known Member

    To the OP:

    We just ordered a set of custom pistons from Scott Brown a few weeks ago.
    They were $782.00 US, with pins, and ring sets.

    We also went with the NASCAR take out rods...but the machining cost in Canada pretty much ate any deal that was to be had there...

    Good luck, and keep us all posted with what you decide to do.
     
  9. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I would also strongly consider going with SFI rated damper and flexplate that are neutral balance and then do an internal balance job. Much less stress on the rotating assembly and easier on bearings.
     
  10. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    If in you do decide to do the above, would be better to start with a cap screw rod crank or you'll be spending a lot on heavy metal to get it balanced even with the very light nascar take out rods! :eek2:

    As far as the exotic rod machining goes, I'm only a couple hundred miles away if that and you can ship them directly here if you buy a set, I can make them fit a sbb for you for $50 plus the around $14 to ship them to you.

    And the crank machining, you shouldn't have a hard time at all getting that kind of work done with all the great crank shops in Ohio, if not I can check the place Dave is using now that the Ro-Dy guy is semi retired and only wants to work on the light weight motorcycle kind of stuff!(can't really blame him because those motorcycle guys will pay the same as someone that wants a big block crank of some sort ground :puzzled: :Do No:)




    Derek
     
  11. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Another option is if Andy wants to sell the set of 6.300" H-beam nascar take out rods that are machined to fit a sbb crank already? Can go with the standard stroke or an .100" offset for the Honda rod journal size of 1.888".

    Not sure he wants to sell them or not though? :Do No: I'm sure he'll see this and maybe he can chime in?




    Derek
     
  12. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the suggestions and offers guys, I'll let yah all know what I'm going to do once I get it out and torn down.
    A curiosity I noticed when I slipped in new mains, the #1 upper main was down to copper, the lower was fine, I'm wondering if that is the result of over-tightening the belts:eek2:
    Anyhow heres a pic of #3 journal and rod cap, I knew it wasn't good when I first saw the cross hatch pattern was gone from the rod cap:(
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Thanks Sean, I'm going to check it out:TU:
     
  14. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Sitting here thinking, I might use my original block for two reasons:
    Its standard deck height, so If it needs to be cut, I'm good. The block that's in the car I had decked .050
    The big plus is I can use the factory windage tray they used in '71, my '78 block doesn't have provisions for one:eek2:
     
  15. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Sure why not use the original block... Always nice to have the original block in there.
     
  16. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    My advice?

    Looks like you have enough parts around to throw together a temporary motor, while yours is getting built... this often helps with the wait time in that most busy engine shops have.

    JW
     
  17. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    Since you want more compression, maybe a second look at one of Derek's combos is in order. That extra stroke will push the piston up higher in the bore if you have the headspace to accommodate it. ('course knowing you the squish is already set)

    Jim
     
  18. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    In the cap picture it looks like on the inside on the right hand side looking at it the material is REALLY thin by the bolt hole and it looks like its cracked down the center there. Or because its so thin there its ripped in that area?

    The cap's bore doesn't look like it was centered very well, or is that because the bearing spun? If its because the bearing spun then you may need a new rod? Check to see how one of the bearings that didn't spin fits in it to check fit.


    Sorry this happened to you, very un-fortunate, I really enjoyed your test result posts and was looking forward to the roller cam testing thread. :Do No:

    Oh well, when you're back up and running the threads should be even better with the new engine!

    With 2 blocks at your disposal perhaps some sonic testing to pick the better one to use might be a good idea for a performance build? Dealers choice.




    Derek
     
  19. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    Haven't a problem with the rods. Both sets at Dave's should be 6.350
     
  20. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I noticed that also how the bolt hole is paper thin where the bearing sits.
    #'s 5 and 6 rod bearings had overlay or whatever yah call it peeling off the ends of the shells, like melted cam bearings.
     

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