Between 280-350 Hp depending on the head porting. Stock heads the 212 cam gains about 20 Hp over stock.
I have stock heads .I was wanting some top end power.I installed 3.42 gears and my 350 2 barrel had a punchy bottom end but would run out of steam 3500 to 4000.I bought a ta 212 cam to give some more steam.
Most of the 2 barrel engines produce somewhere between 150-175 at 8.2 compression. Maybe an additional 20 hp , but a longer rpm range is what you will probably get. The 212 likes headers.
I will like the extra top end RPM. The more I am thanking about it,I thank I'm going to put a set of TA stage one springs on it.
New springs are needed at that higher rpm range anyway. Otherwise you would probably see bent pushrods. Get a timing recurve kit for distributer to get timing in sooner with the bigger cam. I would consider installing cam advanced and if you pull heads to do any work/ valves springs or porting have them shaved .030-.040 for a bump in compression. That will increase torque some. The cam will like it. The extended rpm range will need a higher oil pressure relief spring also. Stock relief is 40. You will want 60 psi . Inspect front cam bearing for wear before installing cam. Get new lifters. Can not reuse old lifters as they are worn to the old cam
I have all ready recurved distributor .I am going to change springs with heads on motor.I have spring tools ,one I had to make.It is A a.c. car and on passenger side some spring couldn't get store bought tool on.I have all ready changed valve seals, so I will be backing up.
Main power is in the heads... I had well ported heads stage 1 springs and a nice custom grind... That really woke it up.. Well now I'm way further but this basics helped a lot.
You are right ,heads makes A big difference. I really don't want to pull the heads off.IM trying to wake it up some with cam 4 barrel swap and see.
Yea fueling system is definitely important.. Go 4 barrel. Get a alu intake. And a proper qjet or 4150 double pumper.. If you do the valves then your heads are off already... If you really want power. Remember boost don't require all this head work. Pro charger or turbo...you force the air trough.
I would even go higher... Since you can usually take off 2-300 of the actual rating... Means if you want 2500 get a 2.8 to 3000
I'm using A cast 4 barrel intake and q jet carb.A stall would be nice but don't want to pull motor or tranny.
Go for it.... I think the cheapest way to get another real power source would be NOS. You can do a 100 shot on a stock motor for sure... Buick power is expensive.. Especially 350. The aftermarket is very limited ..its unfortunately not a sbc. That s why many guys go 455 right away.. Which is reasonable. With all the money you put in heads cam converter carb intake possible machines to squeeze 300 up you can easy do a LS SWAP lol... 5.3 with a tune gets you Arround very drivable 400 horses and is reliable... I know buick guys don't like to hear it but it is a fact.
What exactly does advancing timing 4 degrees do vs 0 on the 212 cam.When I order the cam I got A stock replacement timing set,but now I think I need the double roller adjustable timing set from TA.
It increases dynamic compression some. Which makes alittle more torque down lower and can give up alittle top end rpm. But degreeing a cam is mostly the reason for the advance/retard gearset. As cams and gears can be off. In order for it to match the cam carb you may need to advance or retard cam just so cam is timed correct. Seen some cam 7 -8 retarded. Will make for a really sluggish bottom end.
it won’t make it lump more but will have more tone. If your looking for lump get a mutha thumpr cam and give up 30 hp and 2-3 mpg. You are better off with more compression , will give that rap .
