Im planning on getting into P/S racing with my 70 SS nova L78. I have read the rules and the NHRA specs on the engine. It seems I am at a drastic disadvantage from the 1969 era cars with the same power plant. I realize that I have a poorer intake, and less compression do to the CC of the combustion chamber. I do believe I have an advantage with the 291 head being superior to the 840 head. I was wondering if anyone could share some of there tips and tricks with me while Im rebuild my engine for P/S. I do not know how you guys get these stock engines to run this hard and fast. I mean I think there was a 69 nova at 12.4???? On polyglass..... unbelievable. This is the reason I am getting into P/S, seems so fun and somewhat fair as in money isnt everything. My plans right know are for a nova, 1970 which a have. I have the intake and heads, a 2 bolt 402 block and a nodular iron crank. I plan on a 4 speed m-21and 390-456 gears. The car should be around 3400 LBS. Im just looking how to build the engine to make the power that I need and still be in the rules. Any ideas on valve seat angles, camshaft timing, ignition timing, jetting, oil system tricks. Im looking for anything that will get me in the twelves and be somewhat competitive. Thanks to all that take the time to read, and share there opinions. Very much appreciated! Mike
You gonna be at the Stanton Pure Stock race this weekend? That would be your best bet for gathering info... :TU:
I wish I could attained stanton, but school and work get in the way. Plus its a drive from fargo ND. I do realize no one wants to give out there tricks of the trade but Im just looking for the generic info that most racers already know. What do you guys think of Al. flywheels? I think the main issue hear is getting ride of the low end torque so the polyglass will hook, correct? I got interested after reading the mag. about Petes ZL-1. I have read this forum for 4 months but just registered after I saw the "olds help topic" hoping to get some responses.
I am sure someone will be more than happy to help you, you just happened to post at a time when the helpful guys are off racing ...............
Thanks Donny, I know you guys had the big race last weekend. I also finished up my drag racing at a local track in MN. I was want to refresh the post maybe spark some interest. I would also love to hear more about your L79 vette. I have always dreamed of have a L79 chevelle, nova or vette.
just my two ยข's...... Mike, it's no secret what you ask. The biggest problem isn't how to make power, it's how to hook the tires. A straight up or even retarded cam will kill off some low end power and add some on the top. The rear of your Nova should be lower than the front and the front of the spring leaves should be clamped to limit wheel hop. NEW reproduction Goodyear Polyglas or Firestone Wide Ovals both work well. Old tires are hard. The ones made now are a much softer compound and will hook enough to pull the left front tire on some tracks. You don't say which you have, but a turbo 400 will give more consistant times than a 4-speed. A standard oil pump takes less power to run than a high pressure/high volume pump. Use a distributor with mechanical advance, not one that is locked up. Makes it easier to get off the line with less timing. More later.......... :3gears: :3gears:
more......... Your front suspension should be rebuilt but assembled "loose" with lots of silicone grease on all the bushings. Torque the lower control arm pivot bolts to specs then back them off one turn. The lock nuts with loctite will keep the bolts from loosening up. All the bushings should have the serations ground off of the inner sleeves. Put a nut on the back side of the washers that hold the upper control arms to the inner shafts. That will leave the upper control arms loose but will still retain them. Use loctite on the bolt threads. Use old shocks or cheap gas shocks. That will let the front end come up faster without using 90/10s. While you have the front end apart, if you can find some six cylinder springs you can put "air conditioning" spacers on them to keep the front end up. The six cylinder springs will let the front end lift fast, and they weigh 8 pounds :shock: less than big block springs, EACH! Want more? Later........
We need more power Mr. Scott ! ! Probably the best power for the money in a stock blueprinted engine is to have the block decked to specs. At the minimum, you should have the heads CC'ed. That will give you the most compression you can legally get. You should also take a look at Total Seal piston rings or Bill Mitchell ring sets. You want to keep as much of the pressure in the cylinder as possible. When you put the intake on be sure to block the heat passage between the head and the intake manifold. It won't be real good on cold mornings, but it will keep the manifold cooler which lets more air get to the cylinders. When you get all that done 12's shouldn't be a problem. p.s. Copo Pete says to be sure you use a genuine GM cam. :grin: :grin:
Thank you I huge thanks to all replys, and thank you John for helping me so much. Im kinda afraid of the loose suspension for a street car. I bet I can loosen it up when I go to race. I think it is great what you guys are doing with the old iron. I think it is great to see an actual correct car. I mean every camaro or nova or chevelle around hear has the "three fif-ty" with the automatic. I do understand that P/S is mostly automatics for the consistance, but I will run a manual. Any ideas on light flywheels, launch techniques with a 4-speed? Would higher gears, like 3.31,3.55 or 3.73 be easier to hook than the 4.10's and 4.56's? Does anyone run the middle of the ground gears?
