400/430/455 Block ID, Prep and Oiling mods

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by Jim Weise, Oct 8, 2010.

  1. Ken Mild

    Ken Mild King of 18 Year Resto's

    OK - Bringing this oldie but goodie back up.

    Jim, I run T/A's 6 quart pan for my engine. It's a 70 block with oil mods performed per your thread by the machine shop. T/A front cover/pump assembly and 5/8 pickup hole drilled out from 1/2" and T/A's 5/8 pickup. I run all 6 quarts and the stick reads full. Should I only be running 4-5 quarts or is 6 quarts needed for their 6 quart pan. I think the only mod that was not done was the rear oil pressure reading location. Still only reading from front of block. I do not race often, but I do beat the living snot out of this motor and so far no grenade. It's been about 4-5 years now. I've probably had it up close to 6 grand on many occasions. Actually I think it is 5 quarts not 6. I think the original capacity was 4 quarts right? So it this is one quart extra capacity I guess that would be 5 quarts.

    Here is the pan I am using. http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1511D
  2. BogusSVO

    BogusSVO Active Member

    What great info to have access to for the first time Buick builder!!

    Thank you!!
  3. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    Yes a lot of good info.
  4. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise GOT AIR?

    Hi Ken,

    Sorry, I missed this when you posted it..

    That 1511C pan is does make a 6 quart system, with filter, but your correct, the factory assumed about a quart in the filter and is why the 5 Quarts system with the stock pan, has a dipstick that says "4 Quart capacity" or words to that affect.

    I typically run 5 quarts still with that pan, not had a problem running out of oil or uncovering the pickup, that I am aware of. But I imagine you can put 6 in it and be just fine.

    The only difference in the pan is that it has a bigger sump, since it does not have the exhaust crossover cutout.

  5. cjeboyle

    cjeboyle Gold Level Contributor

    Re: Bypass line

    Sorry if this is a bit off topic but I recently saw a setup very similar to the one pictured with the tunnel ran and external oil pump parted out and for sale. How many of these type setups have you built? And how much do you charge for an intake like that? I am just wondering if I should have pursued it a little harder He wanted $1700 for the intake complete with carbs and linkage.
  6. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise GOT AIR?


    That intake was done by Ken Seminole here in MPLS in the early 2000's.. I have worked with similar ones, cost on an intake like that is north of $2500..

    To Duplicate that whole setup, about 4K..

    It actually may have been that one, I know the guy who bought that car has it apart now as he went to a Tomahawk I heard, or was in the process of that.. and if he went a different way with it, he might be selling the intake and carbs..

    If it was that setup (would have been for sale on the east coast) then $1700 would be a steal.

  7. Mike Phillips

    Mike Phillips Silver Level contributor

    Re: Main bulkhead enlargment

    Jim I know you probably do this but I thought I would draw an illustration

    Attached Files:

    meteo7880 likes this.
  8. vanilla bean

    vanilla bean Well-Known Member

    Hey so when your finishing g that hole going into the cam tunnel with that flame carbide is that the same 1/4 head carbide or is it 1/2 head carbide?
  9. Mike Phillips

    Mike Phillips Silver Level contributor

    If you are referring to the to the diagram, as shown you use a 5/16 flame shaped bur.
  10. WayneR

    WayneR New Member

    I know that this information has been up here for some time now, but what are the effects if you happen to drill through the #1 cam bearing journal when modifying the main oil passage? Yes, I drilled all the way through
  11. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise GOT AIR?

    Nothing really.. just make sure the front cam bearing completely seals the opening.

  12. Mike Phillips

    Mike Phillips Silver Level contributor

    I don't think it is a big problem, the two reasons not to are you now have a closer path for oil to leak out and a little less support for the cam bearing. Years ago I went all the way through by accident and after that I cut a drill shank down so that the chuck hit the block first. Jim may have another reason or experience.
  13. WayneR

    WayneR New Member

    Thanks guys!
  14. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    I've been working on the oil mods on my 70 block and had an issue come up and thought I would share my solution. One of the rear oil gallery plugs stripped on me. Mine were Allen head plugs not the standard square 1/4" drive socket type so I assume mine were replaced before. I did as Jim said heat around the plug, tap with hammer, try to budge it loose and repeat. After a few trys the Allen wrench ended up stripping the plug, oh s**t what to do now?? I drilled it out first with a 3/8" bit then switched to a 7/16 bit so it left basically just a thin layer of metal (the threads) of the plug to deal with. I then started my 1/2" tap into the hole a bit until I felt it bite into the thin layer then backed it out and the the old threads came right out. I chased the hole with my tap and it's as good as new!

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