Wussup, Im new to thr fourm and new to buick engines. I picked up a 455 82 regal and im very impressed. I wanted to know if there is any way around removing the the front cover to relapce the crank seal. I removed the balancer. And found that it has a neopreme seal already. The the balancer havent been sleeved should i try installing the speedy sleeve first?
yes I'm sure l cleaned up all the old residue. put the car on jack stands started and seen oil leaking from right about the front of the oil pan gasket
yes I tighten the bolts it only leak when running. you can see a stream of oil coming from out the crank seal. the oil pan gasket is dry when I removed the balancer didn't find a rope seal. I just seen a regular looking oil seal and my balancer has a knurled area on it
Im going to assume the seal is on the outside of the cover and not the inside ( Ive had both ). If it is the outside just pull it out and put a new one in its place. Pretty easy fix. Can get the seal from a local parts house...forget the part # but if you do a search it'll come up.
If it is a TA cover I recall it goes in from the front based on a smart redesign. If stock the bad news is from the back.
yea its installed from the back.. im screwed l never took the front cover off a buick looking at how it set up its worse then how a lt1 is set up
The real risk is breaking off some of the bolts. It is a common event. Make sure the balancer retaining bolt gets the right torque when you put it back together.
ok I will give it a shot the motor is a fresh rebuild so the bolts should come the only thing is I can't get any repair guides. Im a pretty good mechanic just never tore down old Buick engine is it really that hard. my only thing would be is retiming the distributor with out any timing info
OK... use a chisel and mark where the base of the distributor lines up on the block. Next, using same, mark on distributor housing where the rotor is pointing. then you can pull the distributor. Other than that, it is pretty straight forward. Pull the front 3 oil pan bolts. You can pull the cover without removing the water pump...the bolts with the bigger heads hold the cover to the block, the smaller 7/16 head bolts only hold the pump to the cover. You will have to change the oil after you complete the job, because you WILL get some antifreeze into the oil pan. It really is not a bad job...
thanks for the info I guess my next question is do I need to remove the oil filter and fuel pump housing? and should I use any special sealant I have the speedy sleeve and neoprene front seal already and will the felpro gasket kit be acceptable
thanks for the info I guess my next question is do I need to remove the oil filter and fuel pump housing? and should I use any special sealant I have the speedy sleeve and neoprene front seal already and will the felpro gasket kit be acceptable
may have to remove oil filter to get at a t/c bolt, but I spin it back on, it makes for a nice grab handle when removing the cover. Fuel pump yes. It will be easiest to reinstall if engine is set at #1 top dead center.
You should probably look up the sticky post on power timing on this site - setting initial timing to stock specs with your obviously modded motor would be a crapshoot - and maybe give crap results too. You should time to max mechanical advance and use an appropriate amount of vacuum advance for driveability. The felpro gasket set is fine, don't go overboard with sealer but clean up the pan/timing cover and use some blue RTV down there. Don't forget anti-seize on the bolts that go into the block, especially the long water pump bolts. While you have the cover off, make sure the cone shaped oil slinger is installed on the crank snout - if it's missing you might have an oil leak! I'm just sayin....
ok I have the distributor and rotor marked. only thing I have left to do is remove the fp and tc I'm not sure what this slinger is suppose to look like but I will check to see If I have something on the end of the crank besides the key and timing gear . since the oil pump appears to be in the front will I need to reprime it.
update u got the cover off it's really not that bad and the slinger is stlii there but I noticed it's slightly bent maybe I can straighten it out but I think the problem was the neoprene seal with no speedy sleeve thanks again for all the help
I got the cover off and back on and I think I got a coolant leak now this cover had alot of small chips and imperfections. form my expericene from being a mechanic. your not suppose to use sealant where a gasket Is in this case I think I should have. because there was sealant on there before and I just clean it off and used the gasket now I got a coolant leak on the top left seeping from around the gasket
thanks for the link I skipped that step but its leaking right behind the distributor where the cover meet the block I will take a better look at it tmrw my apt neighbors don't like open headers on a 455 but thanks for the tiPs
