$50 paint job

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by Skylark350, Nov 29, 2006.

  1. Turbo455

    Turbo455 James

    Can you post some progress pix as well. And maybe helpful hints as you learn them. I am getting ready to try this painting technique here in a couple weeks.
     
  2. BBSkylark

    BBSkylark Well-Known Member

    Well it turns out that the paint does not really like the cold weather. I am going to put this part of my project on hold for a little bit until the weather warms up to a constant at least 10 degrees celcius. The paint really does not like to dry in the cold weather and since the weather has been 0 one day and -20 the next it does not like the inconsistancy either.

    When I get it to work well in the warm weather I will post progress pics and final pictures...I really hope this works in the warmer weather when I paint my whole car.

    Erik Metsa
     
  3. tt455

    tt455 T Bone

    Well I had some time this week and now that my cast is off and I'm a little more mobile it was time to give this a test shot.I had the materials from last year when I wanted to try this.

    This is what i got so far after mixing (50/50) 1 part rustoleum paint to 1 part mineral spirits and using a 4" foam roller.1st pic is what I started with sanding lightly with 320 a little body filler and primed only where I did some work,2nd is after 2 coats and wet sanding with 600.3rd pic after 4 coats,sanded with 800 after,4th pic after 6 coats you can see the orange peel sanded with 1000 after.5th pic is where I made my mistake and didn't sand enough with 1000 grit.6th pic is sanded with 1500 and 2000 after 8 very thin coats,now it's starting to look like it was worth it,has a nice shine after wet sanding and before polishing.

    Final 3 pics are after polishing using turtle wax polishing compound.1 of the pics with the polisher in it,I wanted to show a small area that hadn't been polished yet next to what was polished so you get the idea what it looks like.I know I can still get more shine with more polishing and a final wax coat.I am pretty pleased with the results and I know where I made my mistakes.Remember I really didn't do much prep work or it would look a lot better.I just wanted to see what it would look like if I paint my car this way without sanding down to metal.

    I found it is very important not to get lazy when you wet sand.I was afraid I'd take to much off,and that's where the orange peel came in.So my last stages of sanding where brutal just to get it out.I know there's some still there,but that's ok since I know what to do now.

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  4. Tim N.

    Tim N. Platinum Level Contributor

    Wow, that looks decent. I don't know that i would have the patience.
     
  5. tt455

    tt455 T Bone

    Thanks.I know what you mean,I have quite a few hours in that trunk lid alone.Doing a whole car will take time and a lot of work,but if your on a budget and need paint this may be the way to go.
     
  6. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    I think I will give it a shot or go primer forever.
    If I do it I too will do one panel at at a time. I wish I could see yours in person. It looks great. Keep up the good work.
     
  7. sharkmonkey

    sharkmonkey Give me something to hit!

    I started doing this on my little Dodge Neon a couple of weeks ago. It takes lots of patience. I'm doing it out in the open in front of my condo, one panel at a time.
    -mark
     
  8. Buick Kid

    Buick Kid Well-Known Member

    My dad's friend painted my dad's racecar with a spray gun and some paint from TSC. It looked half decent for $20.
     
  9. jadebird

    jadebird Well-Known Member

    Last edited: Apr 26, 2011
  10. Justa350

    Justa350 I'm BACK!

    Anyone try that Duplicolor stuff that is ready to shoot? I've seen it at the parts stores and wondered if it would be a good temporary fix at least to my ugly car.
     
  11. corkgs

    corkgs Well-Known Member

    justa 350 I have some of that paint I want to practice spraying on a spare hood it could be aweek or 2 until I try it,advance auto had the gray for 10.00 I couldn't resist,I got white and red at 20.00. I will spray epoxy primer on first as a base and any filler primer
     
  12. bodyman5001

    bodyman5001 Well-Known Member

    Normally I would say forget it man, but being able to tell people you painted it that way might be worth doing it just for that.
     
  13. tt455

    tt455 T Bone

    Well I figured I'd get some more practice in and that red trunk lid that you saw a couple of posts ago,I painted it black.Now it's never going to be as nice as a base-clear job,but it's certainly good enough for a very nice driver if your willing to put the time in.

    The only thing I did different besides sand a little more,is instead of using a foam roller I went with a velour roller.It cuts down on bubbles,and goes on very smooth.I believe they use these on smooth metals like elevator doors.Just be careful because it absorbs more paint then the foam so don't press to hard when rolling or squeeze some out before painting.

    It just needs a little more polishing,but I went through two 6" bonnets already.

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  14. hemibuster

    hemibuster Well-Known Member

    i shot my air cleaner last weekend ans it looks pretty good.has a little orange peel. i will post pics soon.
     
  15. Dale

    Dale Sweepspear

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    So, this thread hasn't had activity since Aug. of last year, and I am wondering if anyone else has tried this, and how completed jobs are holding up.
    I know Adrian, (68riviera430) did it, but he hasn't updated his thread in over a week.

    For the past week I think I have read every post ever written on every forum that covers this subject, [​IMG] and have collected a folder full of photos of finished cars to talk myself into doing this.

    Several years ago, when this subject first came around, I thought "Yeah, right! A roller?"[​IMG] In fact, I didn't even think enough of it to read the threads on it.
    But, now a few years later I thought I would look into it to see what the verdict is.

    The photos of Rick's Corvair are what really is making me consider this as an alternative to spraying a traditional finish. The Antique White Rustoleum offers looks very close to the Sandpiper Beige of the Riv.

    It's becoming more clear that I just will not have the money anytime soon to get my car professionally sprayed, and spraying it in my garage just does not seem like a practical way for me to go.
    Especially when I consider having to rig the garage up as a booth with plastic, and fans. Along with the health risks associated with today's finishes.

    This looks like a way I can get a decent driver quality finish on the car and have it over with.
    I mean, who would know unless I told them? :laugh:

    Anything is better than the way it sits now, as it is in my avator.
    And can be done at a pace as time allows in the evenings and weekends.

    :idea2:

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  16. jadebird

    jadebird Well-Known Member

    I'm thinking the same way you are. I guess the only thing you have to lose is <$100, and a lot of time prepping and sanding, and then sanding it back off if it's bad. Please post pictures if you give it a try.
     
  17. buick64203

    buick64203 Just plum crazy Staff Member

    You know Dale, as long as there's no enamel on the car, you could spray it in good ole fashioned acrylic lacquer. No need for paint booths. Do it right in the driveway "old school". It lays out nice and dries to the touch almost immediately. No catalysts with iso-cyanides. It does have a finite lifespan, but doesnt every paint job?

    I remember helping my late uncle spray the 68 Riv around 1980 or so in the driveway with a crappy Chicago Pneumatic gun from Harbor Freight. I think he let me spray the 1/4 :grin: . It polished up like glass afterwards.

    Just something to think about.
     
  18. 70sLark

    70sLark Well-Known Member

    $40 HVLP HF gun
    painted in the drive way
    $35 a gal paint bought from here.

    Did do proper pre work though, stripped to bare metal for a proper foundatin.

    [Has looked great these past 5 yrs no flex agent used for the plastic bumpers, no problems with cracks or flexing but since changing some body parts it iwll be painted again this summer with hotrod black primer from the same guy. Will stay in primer till I get sick of that look.]

    http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZpaintforcars

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  19. htwhls19

    htwhls19 Well-Known Member

    I'm just gonna have maaco spray my regal
     
  20. Dale

    Dale Sweepspear

    Trouble is, I have a couple of huge oak trees that cover my driveway with their canopies.
    They drip sap constantly. I can wash a car, and come out hours later and will see little speckles of sap everywhere.
    Not to mention the birds, squirrels, and all the other crap that comes with them.

    I know it can be done at home with great results.
    My Father painted all 3 of the cars he restored in his garage with a small Sears compressor, cheap gun with no plastic hung, or any special ventilation. I don't recall him even wearing a mask of any kind. Crazy 'ol Swede. :laugh:
    Acrylic lacquer was his choice, and they really turned out great.
    The first car he did, a Jaguar, he did in Nitrocellulose Lacquer. Can you even buy that stuff anymore?

    I see kits of single stage Acrylic Lacquer or Enamel for around $100.00.

    I at one time thought about doing all the prep, and then hauling it up to the local MAACO that does have a good reputation for nice work around here.
    But I am sure I could do just as good at home.

    I probably could do it just as the 'ol man did, the only difference being I would use a respirator at least. :laugh:

    This roller process does seem to require a lot more color sanding than if I sprayed it with lacquer.

    :idea2:
     

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