Traction in first gear is difficult if not impossible to get when the converter hits. It didn't do this before.
Then use low stall. Ease into it and then slowly floor it. See where it shifts 1-2. Then get out on the highway. At a steady 50 MPH, floor it. It will downshift to second. Stay in it until it shifts and see where the 2-3 is. Yes, I'd want it to shift 1-2 and 2-3 at 5500. Do you have an accurate tachometer?
Ok I will do that. 2-3 comes on at about 85 and also about at 5000, but that's getting into Johnny law territory, so I'm not sure what to do. Yes I have an accurate tach
I would leave it shifting at 5000 1-2 then shift 2-3 manually at 5 or 5500. That way you have a choice.... Also, you can flog it more without beating on it as much.....shifting at 5000
Be sure kickdown works...it affects where and how hard it shifts. Usually will shift 2-300 rpm higher at full throttle if it is hooked up...also a bit firmer. On my 70 Stg 1 it would shift at like 5200 1-2 without and 5500 with and only break the tires loose on the 1-2 if kickdown was working.
Maybe we need a new rule Also, took it out today for the last time for a little while. I was able to get the 1-2 at 4300. I almost don't believe that, but I want to try again. The kickdown is not working, so I've got to figure out why, cause it was before and I know it shifts low if kickdown isn't working. Edit: I have old pictures and I'll put the hot 12v wire on the right connector this time
The Two wire on the left go to the switch on your linkage knuckle. Torque converter hi speed low speed idle.. the Three Wires on left. Top 12volts ignition on/off center Kick down Passing bottom TC switch pitch
https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/67_chassis/files/74-b.php page 74 -- 80 should be the right page..
Thank you, I've checked that when trying to figure it out the first time. I just don't have the parts, but I was able to get a downshift when those wires worked together. I might have to try it again
Well that kind sucks.. Well I don't see why I won't work without the 2 wires on the left. you just don't get idle stall Just use the 3 on the right.. Use a light stick for testing. at about 50% throttle S/P kicks,,,, WOT passing gear kick down.
Forgot to add that I fixed the kickdown, its almost imperceptible with the stall as high as it is. But of course I'll test it in low stall once again.
It is possible to wire the brake light switch to activate the SP and brake lights. There are several microswitch kits you can buy for the throttle linkage, like used for NOS and such. Both should be easy, and under $100.
Just finished reading through this whole thread. Good stuff! I was about the same age when I got into the Buick game. My 72 Skylark was my only car and I drove it everywhere. I upsets me how much more I got done while I was in college making no money versus now. I am also running the original SP trans in my 67 GS and guarantee I'll be looking back on these posts as I try to sort it all out.
