I put my car up on stands on Sunday to drain the Diff. fluid. What I found was a very badly bent rear control arm on the drivers side. I don't know how it happened but it looks like someone tried jacking the car up by it. I got this car last year from my father-in-law. He gave it to me for my birthday as he was going to just donate it. He owned it for 5 years, previous to that my best friends dad had done a resto on it and owned it for probably 10 years. I don't know a whole lot about these cars but I am learning. So, here is the question. Where do I get another one? Also, can you get new rear coils? My car seems like it sags alot. I am sure they all do after 40 years. I am not sure of the file size limitations on this forum, but will have to post pictures tonight when I get home. I don't have any software on my work computer to resize the pics.
I suspect the control arm will have to used although there is a chance NOS is still out there. If you are talking the track bar that is round with rounded ends with bushings in them the correct part number is dependent on whether you have the heavy duty suspension option: Group 5.415 66-70 less HD suspension = #1376169 "Bar and bushing" 66-70 with HD suspension = #1378071 " " " For the springs try www.espo.com.
Please give me the definition of NOS (New Original Supplier) It is not the track bar. It is the bar that goes from the outer part of the axle towards the front of the car. On the front axle of my dodge truck we call it a control arm. Holds the axle in place forward to back, not side to side. I will post pictures tonight of the problem part. It is bent BAD. The springs on that site look to only be $75. Is it worth replacing those, will they bring the back end up a little? Or did the buicks always sit real low?
Does it look like a bar bell?\ NOS = New old stock. It means that someone has some originals around that may never have been used. It many be a dealer, an individual or a specialty parts supplier.
No not really. Shaped like a U through the length of it, then comes together at each end. It is attached to the frame on one end and to the axle on the other. There will be pics up tonight, but like I said I can't resize them here. It may be late tonight.
Shaped in a U and open at the bottom with bushings at both ends? Group 5.382 9000 series 67-70 Lower control arm RH 1384096 67-70 Lower control arm LH 1384097
I have control arms from 66, 67 and 69 Riv's I parted out. Didn't mark them left or right and they look identical to me, Will need to look at photo of yours to match. $40 plus shipping. John
Rear lower control arms are the same for '66-'70 Rivieras, and there is a left and right. ( 1384096 R, 097 L ). Rear Springs can be changed quite easily, simply by removing the lower shock absorber bolts and lowering the rear axle. Checking Trim Height per the shop manual, and the condition of the springs will determine if replacement is needed. Trim hieght can also be adjusted with the use of shims. :TU:
The one on the passenger side may also be bent. Are they supposed to be completely straight? Do any of you have any ideas how these would of got bent so bad. I am thinking someone tried jacking the car up by the drivers side one. Nailhead, If the ones you have are for the 67 Riviera GS and they are straight and in good shape I would like to buy those from you.
They should both be straight with no bends along the flanges. Unfortunately they are not very strong, and can be bent quite easily from improper jacking, misplaced safety stands, or lowering a hoist with objects underneath the car! Some people replace original control arms with 'boxed in', or tubular units for added strength, and rigidity, - they are not as flexible as stock units. :TU:
Is there some place you can buy boxed in ones or tubular ones or are they a custom make your own item. How much are they?
Not that hard to box a set of big car std lower arms, just need some steel plate, & some careful work with cutoff wheel & welder. For nearly a decade, have been boxing most our most of our nice core A-body lower arms with factory stamped style inserts. Many will get powdercoated, then new bushings. Factory welds on factory boxed arms were not that pretty, before buying a Miller MIG, I used the old Lincoln stick welder with good success. Got Posi? :3gears: Roger
I have the same control arms in your pictures, but I don't see any difference between the rights and lefts! John
Are the ones you have in good condition? Are there aftermarket ones out there that are a better option?
Are there bushings in them? If so what kind of condition are they in? Napa wants $17 for a set of 2. So for those two control arms it will run me $34. Does anyone know of a better place? I will check Partsamerica tomorrow.
