Hello, Im Sebastian from Germany so sorry for my english. A few months ago I buyed an 68 Riviera with the 430 cui. As I try to repair everything and this is my First US car there is a lot to find out. May you can answer some questions? 1. When I turn on the ignition and start the engine there is always a buzzer is it normal? 2. How can I remove the exhaust manifold? I can't get access to the screw because of the servo unit and suspension. 3. Somebody add a screw combination between the engine and the suspension I don't know what it should do. Engine rubber mount is still available. 4. Where I get a plug to close the connection between airfilter and exhaust manifold? Thank you very much for your help Sebastian
1. When I turn on the ignition and start the engine there is always a buzzer is it normal? No, its not normal. its likely the key buzzer contact is no good. Its an inexpensive part but involves removing the steering wheel and lock plate which requires special tools 2. How can I remove the exhaust manifold? I can't get access to the screw because of the servo unit and suspension. Removing the exhaust manifold is tricky because of the rusted bolts. The bolts will break. Its just a question of how many. And you may need to remove the cylinder head or engine in order to remove the broken bolts. So my best advice is to avoid trying to remove the manifold at all costs. What screw are you trying to access?? 3. Somebody add a screw combination between the engine and the suspension I don't know what it should do. Engine rubber mount is still available. The screw combination is there as a fail safe. Its there to protect the engine mount from breaking. The early mounts did not have a fail safe integrated into the mount so it was common to install this device . 4. Where I get a plug to close the connection between airfilter and exhaust manifold? You don't need to plug the connection. A metal pipe went between the manifold and the air cleaner to supply warm air under cold start conditions. It can be left off with no adverse effects. The auto thermatic door in the air cleaner snout probably doesn't work anyway
Jason, I believe he's working on a 68 which would put the ing switch into the dash. No less of a pain to access.
Sorry for my late reply. To 1. In which situation is that normal that the key buzzer is working? 2. I want to remove the whole exhaust manifold. 3. When is the fail safe standard on buicks? In every second corner I hear the metal parts 4. I want to use a big air intake so I need to plug the hole in the manifold. @HitRod No it isnt a GS Thank you for your help!
Sebasian- WHY do you want to remove the exhaust manifold? What part are you trying to gain access to? If you try and remove the manifold, the bolts will break in the cylinder head. It is not advisable. The "screw combination" as you call it is there to prevent the motor mount from breaking There is no hole to plug in the manifold. If you believe there is, take a picture and post it so we can see what your talking about
The situation with the ignition buzzer was that if the key was left in the ignition, and then you opened the drivers side door, the buzzer would go off to remind you that you forgot to remove the key. It was to prevent theft of the car, the buzzer was an anti-theft device. If you are sitting in the car, and the driver's door is open, it will just go off constantly. My point here is if you have the car running with the door open it will just buzz constantly. It could be the switch in the column like Jason mentioned. It is a pink wire with a black stripe (or just pink) where the big harness plug is on the base of the column. I tend to disconnect that wire on all my cars, because often I do work and the door is open for long periods of time.
My 68 has a buzzer and is in the dash. Will buzz when the key is in but not started weather the door is opened or closed
Wow thanks for your condolences. @buick64203 We want to build the full exhaust system incl. The headers out of stainless steel in 2,5 inch diameter. Therefore we need to remove the old headers to get a sample. Does anybody else from you build or drive with the safety device to prevent the mount for braking? Sry your right the connection to the air filter is on the heads. So I need to plug the hole when I'm using a aftermarket air filter. Ignition key is in the dash. The buzzer is near the ignition key switch? @Bad Boattail Thank you for your offer but I'm from North Germany. Yeah I will remove the buzzer but wonder that it buzz when I turn. The engine on.
Today I removed the exhaust manifold without any problem. I hope the exhaust fume problem is done. Also I try to install the AC compressor with the AC shield/belt tensioner but it won't fit at the alternator. Does anybody know where the problem is? I got the parts from an 70 wildcat
The way to install the upper AC bracket is to leave all the bolts loose until you have them all threaded. Then tighten them up
Im gonna second what Jason said about having all the bolts started, then finger tight (cleaned and lubed!) then start tightening them a little at a time. Most of the brackets are welded and may have gained a little "spring" over the years. E-Man also has a point that there really should be two belts, although the AC belt usually rides a bit higher than the alternator. It good for a reference. E-man; can you align the AC compressor any better? Looks like the belt is running to the rear of the AC. That being the compressor is 1/16-1/8" too far forward. Just sayin'; its tuff on the belt. ws
@buick64203 It worked but fitment is really tight. I need to use a hammer to align the alternator to tighten the belt. My belt for the AC is missing. I need only the diameter of the pulley right?
Something is wrong if you need a hammer! May be a stupid question, but did you loosen the bottom bolt of the alternator? If you don't loosen that, its next to impossible to adjust the alternator belt. You would probably need a large hammer to adjust it at that point You will need the circumference of the belt. Wrap a piece of rope around all three pulleys and then measure how long the rope is. Leave your self some room for adjustment
Thank you! Yes bottom bolt was loosen. Maybe the alternator is bad quality or wrong model. The small bracket to adjust the alternator bolt is really tight in the curve and sits directly without space on the alternator housing. Btw I removed the exhaust manifold wasn't a big problem but the exhaust leak is bigger than before. I tried the old gaskets with copper paste but fails. Because I need to order the gaskets from US I will build one out of aluminum.
I think you have the wrong model style case for that alternator. Theres a tall ridge for one of the case screws thats holding that arm "up". If you really need to, instead of replacing with the correct model, mark with a pencil on either side of the arm, unbolt it and take a grinder to make a groove for the arm. The arm will drop, the adjustment will work, and the AC bracket hole will line up. Dont bang on it with a hammer! ws
Ive used alunimum cans fir header gasgets. I made 3 for each hole. Worked better than anything ive ever bought. I use a really thin smear of muffler butter or copper high heat silacone on head and header as well
Exactly how my '70 works as well, but the door shut will kill the buzzer. Any else notice the hose clamps on the AC hoses in Sebastian's photos.
