Bob, I'm just tapping into this thread and your work is great. Was wondering about the core support. Did you refurbish the existing one or get a replacenebt because it looks awesome . Great job on your too. Thanks
Looks great. Bamboo creme really pops when its scuffed and buffed. Can't wait to see pics of it finished.
Thanks so much for the kinds words. I actually bought a replacement from a board member and my brother welded in a patch panel (I now forgot where I bought it, either cars Inc. or OPGI) thern I used Eastwoods's under hood black for the finish. It turned out great. ---------- Post added at 02:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:35 PM ---------- Me too - It has been a long time coming. I have the passenger side fender on, I'll try to get some pictures of that later on. I don't think too many people are restoring Bamboo Cream cars. I think most of them get painted a different color. I think this color, but only with a black top and interior, really looks sharp when polished up nice. We'll see when it's completely done in about a year or two. Right now, I'm just focusing on the front clip, which will be a slightly different color from the rest of the car. It's going back to the body shop to get the whole car painted, but not for a while. Bob
Getting closer - just can't quite get the lines to measure up perfectly. But it's close. Driver's side lines up slightly better, I'll be finalizing that next, then the hood goes on with some help. BH
Getting closer. Hood is on. Front bumper is on. Just some finishing touches left to do. Oh yeah, now it won't start. No spark. I'm replacing the module in the HEI and hopefully that does the trick. Everything else was replaced.
The "darker" color is the result of a $300 paint job when the car was in AZ. I replaced the front fenders with rust free sheet metal and had them painted the correct code 50 Bamboo Cream off of the car. I'm putting everything back together and it will get completely repainted the correct color down the road. The body shop and I have a plan in place and they wanted a complete car to paint. If all goes well, hopefully sometime this fall it will go back in. Probably later though. I appreciate the questions. Bob
She runs and drives now. Gonna enjoy it while I can and then talk about the re-spray on the entire car. Hopefully sometime this fall if weather and time allow. BH
Bob Looks great, BTW did you install the wheel wells first or did you bolt them on the fender then bolted it back on the car? George
I installed them as one unit. Heard +'s and -'s of both ways but I bolted them together and then installed them on the car. Masking tape is your friend!!! It was quite the chore and they don't necessarily go in on the first try. We're targeting the week of Thanksgiving for the car to go in for paint. Can't wait. Thanks for the comments. BH
Just got the carb rebuilt by Ken at Everyday Performance. Man, what a difference!! Will be going in for paint on Nov 30th. BH
Car has progressed to the body shop and will be returned to me so I can do some of the prep work. First time for everything. I sanded the trunk, I have the hood and quarters to do. I'm working with a small local body shop and he took all the trim off and I told him I'll do the manual labor to get the crappy $300 paint job off of the car. I may regret that decision, but I'm doing what I can. More to come. BH
I took the real cheap crap that was on it off, and scuffed it down to the original yellow and a bit beyond that. I got it where it was smooth and the paint guy said that was fine. He'll scuff it some more and then primer it and sand some more and so on. Top layer will be a single stage Bamboo Cream with a clear on top of it. It should be nice when it's complete. BH
Project looks great, wish mine was moving along as quickly. I have been told that removing all the original lacquer paint is mandatory if you are repainting. Also the best way to find any hidden bodywork/filler . Many paint/body guys will refuse to clear or paint over existing lacquer finishes, because of solvent bleed and possible reactivation. Also the reason for the use of a non-porous epoxy primer before using standard 2K polyurethane primers, which are porous. After a long discussion with the President of Southern Polyurethanes Inc. , I choose to strip all the paint from my project and start anew with epoxy primer etc. As the Pres says" It will only take a day, it is well worth setting your project back that small amount of time . ". Jim/Rott
