if I bypass it wont it throw everything that write up says it does throw all that out of wack? Assume it aint broke why bypass it. Benefit?
One thing I have found after replacing my heater control valve on my 71 lark is that the valve needs to be mounted lower/closer to the intake manifold. The idea is that if you mount it too high above the level of the radiator that it will be the high point in the cooling system and trap air that can cause overheating. The top of the valve should be below the top of the air cleaner as a reference point. Generally speaking the thermostat housing inlet would be the highest point in the system so you can eyeball every thing when you get done and see that nothing is above this level and the radiator. Good luck on your problem isolation; the good news is that all these maintenance changes will help overall performance and reliability.
If you retime the engine so that it gets the ignition timing it needs, you don’t need that system at all. All it does is reduce emissions, power, gas mileage, and make the engine run hot. The reason you don’t understand is because you don’t understand the mechanics. Ignition timing is a confusing topic for many guys in our hobby, so much so that I wrote this thread many years ago. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/power-timing-your-buick-v8.63475/
When I put a new Tstat in and gasket, do I need to put a little gasket sealer on the gasket also? If so how long do I let it sit before I can start the car.
I usually put a thin coat of Permatex #2 on the gasket. tighten it down and it should be good to go! Make sure you run the housing over a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface to make sure its flat!
Well it is in. No leaks, YET, ha ha ha. I put a new heater control valve in and lowered down below the carb air breather. It was above the breather. Put a new rad cap on. I am getting a mechanical temp and oil unit so I can see if she gets hot and keep an eye on oil pressure while I am at it. The fan seemed to be pushing air pretty good. Don't think that is the issue. While the rad was pretty low I looked in it and saw no corrosion visible. Does not mean it is not clogged but looked better than I expected. I have to assume on this 350 the water temp unti is on the top right of the intake?
when I put this sensor in, do I put some of that white white thread tape on the threads or just run fitting in till snug?
Well after all new hoses, rad, tstat and the addition of a mechanical gauge to see true temps, I have had the car out in 90 degree weather and no overheats, running well. I have not had it on the HWY yet since I have a NASTY wobble in the car, bad tire I think and don't want to risk a blow out. I did have it up to 50 on a road in town and it stayed cool. So perhaps the new rad has fixed the issue.
This evening was the first time I could get the Buick on the HWY with valid tags since I put new radiator and hoses, etc. It did not overheat at all. Held a good right at 180 to 185.
Well today another overheat of sorts. 85 and a little humid. Drove it about 20 min to my brothers, HWY speeds. Stopped, put it on lift no hot at all, mech gauge was fine. Came home it was that 85 and sunny. Stop and go to the HWY temps stayed fine, got on HWY it was at 185, pulled some hills it got to about 195 which I except would heat under a pull. Once I got off that long hill it got back to 185 at hwy speed. Got off HWY and it got down to about 195 which I think is fine in stop and go for about 3 min to the house. When I backed into the drive and into the garage the temp got to 200 205 which I have seen do before and when I shut it off there was BOILING sounds in rad (not in overflow) and what sounded boiling at the tstat and top hose. Expansion tank filled all the way up to the point of pissing out the tube at the top (but it did not). I looked at the temp gauge (car had been off 5 min or so now) and it read 245 which I would think it is going to get hot after being run then shut off but BOILING sound? It never leaked. After 30 min the expansion tank stayed full to top and got the rad cap off and the rad was full to the top, maybe and inch low from opening of the cap neck. Car ran fine, no missing, back firing loss of power. Had car on a lift today no signs of any rad fluid leaks from new tc cover, nothing anywhere. I have been driving the car a little but today was first day in the conditions I list out here. I had timing bumped to 8 degree when I had not timing chain and tc put on car. I am lost on this. I tend not to trust this car.
