`72 Skylark Pro-Touring Project

Discussion in 'Pro-Touring' started by cray1801, May 16, 2018.

  1. alvareracing

    alvareracing Well-Known Member

    Craig, are you going to our Nationals in Oct? Love to see your car, looking forward to having mine there.
     
  2. cray1801

    cray1801 Too much is just right.

    Finally did some skid-pad testing last weekend, you know CW check tire temp's, CCW check tire temp's. Only got results from the CW direction, and found two areas for improvement. The first, vent tube issue with gear oil coming out on CCW direction...easy fix with extension. The second, my drag race style oil pan does not keep the oil where it needs to be. For a temporary fix I'll add another quart to the 7 qt. pan....and keep an eye on the pressure.

    Tire temp's were within 20 degrees across the thread for each tire, a good start. Glad to have the buckets with bolsters but shoulder belts sure would be nice.

    511_016FrontCCW.jpg

    315_021FrontCCW.jpg

    511_022CW.jpg
     
  3. cray1801

    cray1801 Too much is just right.

    Won't be making it this year, so much going on in Oct. Have not been since 2009 :-(
     
  4. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    If you're seeing any kind of oil starvation like that, definitely consider an oil accumulator (Moroso, Canton, etc). Even in basic autocross scenarios, stuff can get wrecked in a hurry!
     
  5. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    I've had the same issue with oil pressure drops on hard corners. Has anyone used the SRE pan (baffled) to try to mitigate the issue?
     
  6. cray1801

    cray1801 Too much is just right.


    Sounds interesting, where would you connect to the oil pressure supply on the block?
     
  7. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    Depending on the frequency the car sees this condition, again I'd recommend on oil accumulator. I've seen a very nice, and very expensive baffled pan with trap doors, fail to keep a built LS properly lubricated.

    Relatively common to "tee" into a remote oil filter adapter, or oil filter sandwich adapter.
     
  8. alvareracing

    alvareracing Well-Known Member

    Craig, the nearest area is by the pump at the oil sender unit. T of that would feed the accumulator and return at the same location would result as close as factory does. If you also balance feed the motor from the rear, you can T again back from the accumulator to the rear also, feeding the motor back in both places. I would do anything I could to feed it as fast as possible. This is what I did, feed the front, side and rear, I use external feed out to a remote filter with a splitter to feed the motor in 3 spots.
     

    Attached Files:

    CameoInvicta likes this.
  9. Troys69GS

    Troys69GS Well-Known Member

    Cray, could you post some details about how you did front suspension upgrades? Maybe I missed another threat?
     
  10. cray1801

    cray1801 Too much is just right.

    See posts starting at #23

    I started off by measuring and plotting out all the stock suspension pivot points. This was not easy because I did this prior to taking the clip off. A combination of tools were required including a laser level. All points including ball joint and steering points were recorded relative to the car center line (left to right) and the front axle line (front to back) and elevation. The goal is to move (as needed) each suspension pivot point to be symmetrical left/right and front/back and elevation. I ended up moving the mounting points for the upper and lower control arms, including UCA bolt/stud projected angle. For the upper and lower control arms I had to open up the holes in the frame and weld in heavy duty washers to get the control arm pivot point (holes) corrected, making them perfectly aligned and symmetrical on each side with each other. Of course I found that the new LCA's were not straight as they should have been after frame modifications :-/

    Front sway bar support mounts and pipe were welded to the frame, you can see that easily from the front (see pictures in post #25).

    For alignment, I was shooting for -1 deg. camber, 8.8 deg. caster and 3/16 toe out. The caster goal was based on the king pin angle, which was about 7.5 deg. Due to packaging issues (UCA to header clearance) I could only get ~7 deg. caster. The TA shorty headers have less clearance than my old headers did in many ways ... but they did allow lowering the car 1.5" front and 2" rear with good ground clearance.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2018 at 8:27 AM

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