A MAD DASH !

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by yachtsmanbill, Dec 26, 2017.

  1. UticaGeoff

    UticaGeoff Well-Known Member

    Went in just before I put it away for the winter. Need to make some adjustments in May. Dynoed at 511 hp, 541 tq. I'll let you know.

    UticaGeoff
     
  2. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    WOW... Feb. 18TH last post here!

    Getting beat up on the boat job so I thought I'd take a break and do some cold A$$ concrete work for a change. All that's left for this year is some trans. mtce. The biggies on this job are a new modulator, a new governor, and maybe a new aluminum pan (!) Been following Bobs pan thread, and I can't justify $150 for a new pan. Are el Cheapo cast pans that much inferior? Advice is appreciated!

    Speaking of advice, I am treading into the Star Trek world of Buick upgrades. I need to run new trans lines. The OEMs are visually bad, and cooked from being pretty close to the headers, plus the PO's previous attempts at bending for clearance was less than stellar. So here's a few questions from the exspurts:

    The OEM lines look like 3/8" OD, so we'll use that as a datum point. Feel free to correct that number if you have to; Ive never measured mine, but remember making a repair 40 years ago on a dodge and swear they were 3/8. So lets say the steel is 3/8 OD so that makes hose at 3/8 I.D. Thats an AN6 in size, right? The AN6 fittings are necked down to fit inside the hose to about 5/16 - 1/4" I.D. Should I up the hose and fitting size to 1/2" (AN8) for full flow? Will the orificing really hurt? Car is street driven at highway speeds regularly. I may install an aux. cooler later. Car has AC so I want to be on the passenger side of the condenser.

    Next, after changing the adapters on the trans and radiator cooler I plan on running blue hose through the frame rail up to the front. Just to be different, I plan on using a 120 degree back bent fitting at the trans to get the lines facing back and go across the crossmember. Header collector heat is a real issue and I dont have the heat clearance going forward. Short of getting in there with a tape measure, can anyone give me a ruff idea of how much hose thats going to take. I don't mind buying a 25 foot box, but being a foot short will kill me LOL. ws

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  3. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    So, none of the hydraulic engineers here have any input on this? ws

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  4. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Guess I'm going to the transporter alone... beam me down Scotty:oops:...'Hope the DILITHIUM CRYSTALS hold up! ws
     
  5. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    You have too much spare time on your hands Bill! Why re-invent the wheel? It's not like you're going to enter Nascar! Now that I'm looking under your car, something is going on with the E cable. Like the cable is too long, the front cable or hook is wrong? Crossmember? Something, but I can't tell. You see how far down the cable adjustment nuts are?
     
  6. UticaGeoff

    UticaGeoff Well-Known Member

    Bill: I believe I have info in NY about how the JW flex lines were to be installed. I won't be there until May though.

    UticaGeoff
     
  7. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Bill, look at post 27 in flynbuicks GSX under chassis resto. The cable should look something like that.
     
  8. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Man! I thought I was gonna hafta talk to myself tonight LOL... Geoff... was that you that ran the hoses through the frame up to the front frame nose? That's my plan, but with the headers, all that stuff gets so damn hot that I want to run to the stern and cross over on the crossmember to the frame. I pulled the old steel tubing off today (had to cut each one to extricate them) and measured each line at about 12-13 feet through the frame. Tape measure exited right at the rad. tank (and got stuck!) but persevered, as usual. I have always have had a trans drip but never had to add ATF, and found the cause today! The PO's expertise shone through again! One line (I think the upper) was cross threaded and drawn down pucker string tight. I'm surprised the trans case wasn't cracked. Tighten, tighten, tighten! Then tighten some more just in case! Glad I'm committed now. I hate leakers! I would amaze guys (Model T guys) that I could build a Model T engine and have it not leak a drop. "Is that thing outa oil???" Nope; just doesn't leak. Neither does the motorcycle (1978 FLH). NOT A DROP. PERIOD. Not anal, just fastidious.

    Not trying to re-invent the wheel, but when yer down on the rim, its only flat on one side LOL...

    So my ol' pal Frank has been giving the BAD LAD the evil eyeball! LOL. I have both pics up on the screen here and notice several differences in the PB cable. Since I bought the car in 2013, I havent had the guts to use it. Got my old Suburban stuck once from the PB locking up on a steep driveway (from non-use) . Beat it up enough to get it to pop free. The bumper was up against the guys garage door though. Having been through the rear brakes this winter, I'm now confident that they'll work (barring the pedal freezing up!). Now the cable...

    Between JW's GSX and my XGS, I see a few differences. The passenger side hook on his IS longer (making mine even worser) but mine looks like its missing a stern hook on the passenger side. The XGS was also a 350/350 car. Is the crossmember mount in the same position on the frame rails? His 4 speed has two rear trans mount bolts with a single on mine. Hmmm. I also notice Jims has individual cables on the lower arms to a joint with the main cable under the back seat. Ill need to double check mine for the log book. The PO was a real Rube Goldberg! Nothing surprises me, I just try to correct stuff as I find it. Pics tomorrow!

    FWIW... sanded and got two coats of varnish on the boat stuff today so I CAN NOW AFFORD SOME BUICK TIME. :eek::eek::cool: ws
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2018
  9. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    I know there are 2 different length hooks. I know there are 2 different length front cables. I think there are 3 different length intermediate cables. There were 2 small hooks on the cable about under the rear floor. There were 2 hooks on the lower control arms (you don't really need them, they are unique to Buicks, I think). On my car and Jim's, the cable goes through a hole in the cross member on the driver's side. I'm not sure about 72's. The mount does look unusual to me. Most of the cable stuff is related to TH400 vs TH350. A TH400 used one size cross member hook and front cable. I think the cross members may be different, too. The cross member position is kind of "automatic". I suppose it's possible to reverse the cross member. Jim's car is a 4spd, and stuff is different than a TH. Somebody like Jason who has messed with this stuff more would have a better handle on it. But the way Jim's cable looks, the position of the adjusting nuts on the front cable, the "even-ess" of the cable, that's how it should look. So, if you do set it, it pulls both rear brakes equally and at the same time. Good work on the ship!!!
     
  10. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Me thinkst tomorrow I'll be on the floor and examine what Ive got for sure! 40 some odd years ago, this stuff was still pretty much OEM, but now? Who knows... ws
     
  11. UticaGeoff

    UticaGeoff Well-Known Member

    Bill: Mine was a 350/350 car that was converted to 455/400. Drilled a hole in crossmember for the new Ebrake cables. I have an extra "long hook" home, but again no access until May. I had the header heat issue too, so went with the through the frame tranny lines. No heat issues now.

    UticaGeoff
     
  12. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Did you run back and over the top of the crossmember? I'm trying to get as much dead air space between the heat and the hoses as possible. Do you remember if you used the stock cables or was the conversion done by the PO? The cable for now is kinda a low priority. Mondays plans are to start assembling parts for the hose job (!).

    45 and sunny here today so I am off to the boat to get some more scraping done. When thats done (with varnish) and the BAD LAD is done with the hose Ill be ready to jump onto the boat again to get the aluminum siding fitted, tack welder in situ, then brought home for a full seal weld, prepped and painted and re-installed. YUP... never a dull moment around here.

    Sorry to take some of these threds of Buick topic, but I like to share what I am doing; anybody can do this stuff if you only try! ws
     
  13. UticaGeoff

    UticaGeoff Well-Known Member

    Bill: I can't recall how I ran them. I think I just followed JW's instructions as he used to make and sell the kit. I did the TH350 to TH400 conversion at my friend's shop. I bought new ebrake cables.

    UticaGeoff
     
  14. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Got the steel tubing out the other day, the boat job is competing for my attention. So far, all the AN 6 stuff is gonna be about $200.00 give or take. Still OK for peace of mind. But at the hose shop (I trust them; they built me a nice 1 wire 100 Amp alternator for $50 and redid the starter for about $40) I saw something and thought of Lucas War Hero! I also happened to have my camera with me so I squeezed off a few rounds.
    You guys are gonna like the hose job (I hope!). I know I will! Courtesy of Manitowoc Motor Machining on Franklin for the locals... ws



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    1972Mach1, mrolds69 and UticaGeoff like this.
  15. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Made a call today to go look at a garage furnace for next winter. Yup, already around the corner and this winter is still here! This came out of a car repair shop from up this way (office, waiting room and two bays). It was a third back-up for a propane (primary) used oil (secondary) and then natural gas (!) final system. Its a 100K BtU (INPUT) 80k (OUTPUT?) unit with minimal hours on it. It was a running take out before building demolition. This one has an EER category rating of 1 (one ?) AFUE 80, so I am guessing its about a 80% unit built on 2004 in the good ol' USA. It a 4 position capable guy, pilot free ignition blah blah blah. I plan on doing the install with some ducting (required for heat rating) and then calling in a HVAC guy for a start up. For a lousy $100 its the best deal Ive found.

    If BRIZ or any of the other HVAC guys care to take a stab at it (no pun intended) please advise!! Position in shop (like it above the floor near the ceiling rafters), exhaust stack etc etc... I do a lot of stuff but HVAC aint my forte'! Pardon the lousy pics. They are from the sellers phone this morning at 0700hrs. ws

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    Last edited: Mar 20, 2018
  16. 1972Mach1

    1972Mach1 Just some M.M.O.G. guy.....

    That's cool!.....Looks like he's waiting for a tasty beverage to come down the pipeline.........Sorry haven't been responding much. Been giving myself kind of an "internet sabbatical" so I only check on once a day or so or post when I find something really interesting. Looking good, Bill.
     
  17. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

  18. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

  19. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    No comments on the furnace? Due for pick up this afternoon. Getting ready for next winter already! ws
     
  20. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    If space is not an issue Id install it on the floor vertical.place it on a metal or wood stand.You could even hang it with dog chain,or threaded rod and uni strut. That unit can be installed in any configuration. Keep in mind heat rises. Run a gas line to it,110V power and if not near any combustibles a single wall flue will be fine. Make whatever kind of duct you'd like for the top. Square to round with a 12 -14" 90* to point it where ever you want the air
     

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