After more than ten year of rest, Its time

Cooper cobras are a good street tire and about the only option for a 245/60,..BFG's are too soft, Firehawk and Uniroyal dropped the 245's I'm pretty sure, the Mickey Thompson Radials I have no experience with. But yes Seafoam, Marvel, to bust stuff loose and STP blue bottle to keep it loose and protected

 

The Mickey Thompsons are great tires. I have been running the 245/60-15's for about four years now. Cooper makes them for MT.

 

Thanks guys. Looking to run 235 up front & 255 on the back. Received the rest of the parts today. Unfortunately the rear drums are incorrect.... Rockauto site shows rear Max Dia 9.59 but what i got was stamped Max Dia 243.59 and the height is shorter. Going to get most of the work done this weekend. After that, some new rubber.
Front rotors.

 

243.59mm = 9.59in
Same size.

 

Duhhh, Didn't dawn on me to convert the number, but what about the height? The new drum is almost 1/2" shorter than my stock one.

 

Front drums were 2.5", rears were 2". Did you have a front drum on the rear?

 

Doesn't the front drum come with a Hub assembly? Far as i can tell the rear drums are Factory. They have not been replace, just relined. The front rotors have been replaces as well as the calipers. That much i know for sure.

 

I’ve Chevelles with two piece front assemblies. Meaning the drum separated from the hub.

 

I believe the original rear drums just have more mass. But still 2 inch shoes. I noticed the same thing - the rear drums look much wider on my GS versus my 1972 olds 442. But both have 2 inch wide shoes.

 

New drums are not working at all. Adjuster turn all the way in and its a real tight fit on the Passenger side, no go on the driver side. They are going back.
My old OEM drums slide right on with plenty of room for adjusting. Oh and i still need to bleed the lines as there is no brake fluid in the lines. Cleaned and sanded the old drum and installed for now till i get another set of drums. Front rotors installed with no issues. Bleeding the whole system tomorrow.

 

Anything original, if in spec is the way to go.

 

Wish they where. Which is why i need new drums.

 

Is it possible that the parking brake cable is frozen? Eye up the shoes and move them so that they are centered up on the backing plate. With the shoes centered on the backing plate, the top of both shoes should be touching the anchor pin at the top. If they aren't, the parking brake cable or cables are frozen or over adjusted. Measure the new and old drums with a micrometer. Possibly the old ones have been machined beyond spec.

 

Appreciate all the help folks. Shoes are line up and the parking brake cables are not frozen. Bleed the brakes but ran into an issue with the rear. Fronts bleed just fine and removed the old brake fluid. On the rear there was little to no fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. Guess i have a clogged line. Going to remove the rear line off the Combination valve and the two lines off the "T" fitting on top of the rear diff to blow some air into it. Hit those line with PB blaster so they can soak over night. Hopefully i can get that line off the Combin valve.

 

You need to compress the pin at the combo valve with a clamp.

 

Do what Rob Ross said or you can take the switch out of the valve and using a small pick, recenter the valve. If you bled the front and allowed the pedal to go to the floor, the valve probably did its job and shifted , blocking off fluid to the rear brakes. Also, as to installing the rear drums, make sure that the strut rod between the shoes is positioned correctly. I've never seen a brake drum that was too small to install over the shoes, but I guess that anything is possible. I have also seen wheel cylinders frozen that didn't allow the shoes to fully release.

 

Could you explain this better. Not sure really.

 

Yes when i did the front the wife was pumping the pedal and it did go to the floor a few times. But that was after i tried to bleed the rear brakes first. So your saying the valve shifted and is blocking any fluids from going to the rear?

 

The valve may have been shifted from ten years ago. Actually, before you do anything with the combination valve, see if it will bleed with one of the rear bleeders completely removed. I've seen many bleeders, especially where I am in the rust belt, get packed with rust and dirt and won't allow fluid to pass through. If the bleeder is plugged, you can use an 1/8" drill bit to clean both holes.

 

The rear wheel cylinder are brand new. I'm looking in my '71 Buick service manual about the combine valve and it states that i need to hold in the "Hold-off valve stem" while bleeding the front brakes.