Do all the TA and Bulldog Aluminum heads have the added head bolt hole and is it required that the block be drilled for it to use these heads? I have the engine in the car and would like to put aluminum heads on it. Mike D.
I have aluminum Stage 1 heads from TA, the street eliminators. Although you can add the extra holes to the heads, they are not drilled in the heads, and they look 100% stock except for provisions to make those holes. You will find that you need 9/16" 12 point nuts for 4 of your head studs if you use studs however- the outbaord most two on each head here's a pic
:grin: Actaully painted red because keeping raw aluminum clean is a pain in the @ss I talked to some ricers once. they asked what "mods" I'd done to the car. I said, well, it's got a 455 bored out to 462 (should have said "7.5 litre"), 10:1 pistons, a torque cam, 3.31:1 posi, TH350 with a shift kit, factory ram air induction, 1 and 7/8" primary headers, street/strip distributor, 9mm wires and a 2.5" exhaust No kidding, one of them looked mighty confused after that and said, "What kind of stereo do you have?"
I know this is an old post. When the extra bolts/studs are drilled. How many threads are existing and useable for the header bolts and what bolts are used?
Maybe call TA. They mention it in the instruction sheet. http://www.taperformance.com/PDF/Head_Instructions.pdf
Thanks Larry, I had read that and just wondered if anyone knew how much they need shortened or how long the bolts were after shortening. Trying to save a little time while making some improvement on this quick overhaul to make Oct 28 deadline.
I would imagine you could guesstimate it by measuring from the head flange to where the bolt holes would be.