Any appliance technicians for clothes dryer

Discussion in 'The "Other" Bench' started by telriv, Jan 26, 2018.

  1. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    I have an old Whirlpool clothes dryer. It's been in the house since I moved in 30yrs. ago. I've done the normal things like replace belts, heat elements, etc. I just replaced the dryer tub belt a couple weeks ago. Put wet clothes in the dryer & after it stopped a few of the heavier clothes were still damp. Pulled out the dried clothes & went to turn it on again & it wouldn't start. I've done the normal internet search & found a trouble shooting guide, but gives no wiring diagrams so that I can try & trace out the problem.
    The model is an Imperial 80 with a model #LXE 8700WO & a serial # M13403004. Any trouble shooting tips?? Where to find a wiring diagram?? How to do some diagnostics??
    Any help appreciated. TIA


    Tom T.
     
  2. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    Door safety switch?
     
  3. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental Block

    Hi Tom,
    Not trying to sound stupid (I can normally do stupid effortlessly) but starting with the basics did you confirm that you don't have a worn out breaker switch? We had one that you would swear was not tripped but it was completely worn out even though it looked like it was still in the on position. This was after researching the door closed switch sensor that when bad won't allow it to start or the sensor in the tub that would give false readings that the clothes were dry and automatically shut off the machine but if you went to restart it it should have restarted so I doubt that's it. Like I say I would check the breaker first and make sure it's not one of tricky blown ones. Have you confirmed power at the wall switch? Hopefully it's something simple like that if it is not repost and maybe one of us can find that wiring schematic. Yes it is hard to replace a 30-year-old dryer because you know it is built better than any of these new ones out here. Good luck with it and will help however I can
     
  4. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    Yes, it HAS power at the outlet. Checked it with my volt/amp meter. I checked the continuity of the door switch also which checks out OK. I HATE all this new electronic stuff. Buzzers, beepers & all the rest of the junk that's layered upon us for our own convenience. LOL


    Tom T.
     
  5. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental Block

    Check all the assorted fuses in dryer for open circuit?
     
  6. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental Block

    Mind posting a pic of controls ? Thanks
     
  7. tdacton

    tdacton Gold Level Contributor

    I once needed to replace the "start" button on our dryer.
    Troy
     
    STAGE III likes this.
  8. 72STAGE1

    72STAGE1 Runnin' with the Devil

    Have you tried replacing the entire Dryer.....IMO it works every time........just sayin'
     
    71gs3504sp likes this.
  9. BuickV8$Mike

    BuickV8$Mike SD Buick Fan

    Check the thermal fuse in line on the back of the unit. You can simply bypass it to confirm thats the issue.
     
    STAGE III likes this.
  10. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    I know in the grand scheme of things in comparison to other appliances dryers are somewhat inexpensive, but I'm too cheap to consider that alternative. Besides what John said older units are built better & MUCH simpler than the new JUNK that's available today. It states to check the thermal fuse, but I can't find it & ALL the literature I've run across does not state where it might be located. That's one reason I'm looking for a wiring diagram for this particular unit. There was NO mention of any kind of fuses in the online searching I've done.
    Thanks again for ALL the suggestions.


    Tom T.
     
  11. tdacton

    tdacton Gold Level Contributor

  12. BuickV8$Mike

    BuickV8$Mike SD Buick Fan

    Its near the exhaust, one wire in one wire out. Mine was 1/2 in square by 1 1/2 long. May or may not need to remove the back panel. The challenge is how to disassemble your model.
     
  13. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental Block

    There may be a couple thermal fuses,one to detect heat buildup from a blocked exhaust vent work and there is also a thermal fuse in the heating element area if I remember correctly (over temp)

    And hats off to old school appliances I STILL have a a 1940's GM Frigidaire that will make beer slushies just shy of freezing them! R-12 bayyyybee!
     
  14. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    GREAT!!! Now I know where to look. Can I test them with a continuity tester before just replacing them???


    Tom T.
     
  15. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    It should check out with the continuity tester as closed.

    When I moved into this house we brought our old washer / dryer with us. I had found the washer in the alley behind the house and used it for 10 years before we moved and another 2 years after. Old, spring wound timer. one motor did everything. Started leaking from the drum seal in the bottom but otherwise still running great. Replaced it with a Kenmore Oasis and a communicating connected drier. The washer is about 14 yrs old now.Don't seem that long ago. In the last year it has started throwing one code after another. Im pretty handy so I been throwing parts at it to correct whatever fault is causing the code. Seems I could have bought a new unit by now and it still has issues. Replaced one of the pumps yesterday to clear a LD code and first wash today it flashes F51. I'll stick with my old stuff from now on.
     
  16. flynbuick

    flynbuick Super Moderator Staff Member

    I know how you feel but Whirlpool is no longer tops. Tom get a Samsung gas dryer. Just ask appliance repairmen. Do not get an LG. Their plants are close to one another but they are not the same. LGs are trouble.
     
  17. Mike Trom

    Mike Trom Tired of Politics!

    Don't expect anything you buy new to last 30 years, my first washing machine lasted 20 years. I have all ready had the new one apart after 5 years.
    I did not cheap out when buying a replacement either.
     
  18. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    Yeah, know what you mean Briz. One of the reasons I'd like to keep this one going. I DON'T want to keep throwing parts at it. I'd rather diagnosis correctly 1st. & replace what's nec. The parts for the older stuff is usually less costly than ANY new stuff, IF you can get what you need. The 1st. belt lasted about 20 yrs. When the dryer was being used MUCH more than today with younger children living with me. Replaced that belt that lasted 5yrs. the next lasted ONLY 3yrs. this time & the latest lasted 2 yrs. ALL the rollers, tensioners etc. are in good shape as I usually service/grease & check things every couple yrs. as well as clean out the venting once a yr. This dryer is used MAYBE once a week or, so no where's near as much as in the past. Not even replacement parts are any good as far as I'm concerned.
    Jim, I don't have gas in my area. My sister does & for whatever reason she HATES it.
    I had to go out & do a couple small jobs & will try & get to it this evening.
    Will let ALL know what I find, IF I find.
    THANKS ALL FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUGGESTIONS!!!!!


    Tom T.
     
  19. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    About once a month I'll do a change out on a 20+ yr old A/C unit. Often they are still running and working fine, just not energy efficient. Hate having to tell the buyers that even the best piece of equipment I can sell them will last as long as the one Im replacing.
     
  20. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    Yeah, the NEW unit will be DEAD before it EVER pays for itself in energy savings. Just like in the 70's when people were dumping the gas guzzlers for more fuel efficient cars & buying those little shoe boxes that rotted out. Where were the savings???
     

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