Any difference on brands of R12 ?

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by rex362, Mar 18, 2019.

  1. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    Have a fella who has these brands of 12 & 14 oz R12 ....any specific brand best or its all the same stuff in different colored cans...???

    Ig-lo Dupont
    National
    Arctic-Air
    Sercon
    Remac
    Gunk-cold shot
     
  2. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    also .... system takes 3.75 lbs Freon .....so that's 60oz ..so 5 cans @ 12 oz each should cover that ...Correct?
     
  3. 78ParkAvenue

    78ParkAvenue LED Interior Lighting

    I think it is more or less the same. No idea if that stuff had a shelf life though. I believe Dupont made the original stuff in which Freon was the trade name. Last time I was quoted an r-12 price it was $125 per pound and that was probably 13-14 years ago.
     
  4. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    $20-$25 per 12 oz can on the low side...and then have seen $30-$40 as well

    shelf life ?...they say as long as its sealed r12 is good for a very long time ,the only ones
    .that might have issues is the r12 mixed with dye or oil.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2019
  5. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    Freon, R12, 134A, R22, R410A ect does not go bad or expire. As long as the can or system is sealed its good. Granted the system has not had some sort of mechanical failure or burn out.(cars exempt from burn out) You wont find a old car with a full charge of 12 due to the seals and hoses degrading over time and or the shaft seal on the A6 leaking. The air conditioner in your home has no rubber hose, only brazed copper. Sometimes I come across 25 yr old units running well with the original charge in them. I've got a cabinet full of the little cans. Some could be 30+ years old.Also have a reclaim tank that I put 12 into when having to service one of my cars.
     
    rex362 likes this.
  6. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    Before I took it all apart 15 years ago the ac worked very good and cold ,and a dry
    compressor no oil slinging....I have no serious ac experience since tech school 40 years ago :)

    All I plan on doing is flushing everything and just a new txv valve and drier ,reseal all
    lines with new o rings, fill with oil and evacuate and then have the system suck in the r12.

    When adding oil /10.5 oz they say most in the compressor and that you can throw a
    few ounces in drier and even in the txv and or poa ..

    question : when I evacuate will it suck out any of the oil ??
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2019
  7. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    No.

    Be sure to pressure test with Nitrogen before you evac the system .
     
  8. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    Nitrogen ? I imagine a static test , not running ....how much pressure and for how long ?
     
  9. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    I put in 100 psi and then bubble check every connection. If Im not 100% sure I got a tight system I'll leave it under pressure over night. If you check with freon your readings will vary due to temperature.
     
  10. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    ok ....how about stuffing compressed air in there to test same way ?
     
  11. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    The reason we use nitrogen rather than compressed air is that it has no H2O in it. Moisture is very bad in refrigeration systems. If you dont have access to a tank then just put it in a deep vacuum and let it sit 24 hours. If its still holding -29.9 then you got a good system.
     
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  12. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    Eurika ! Cold Gold

    Found some local fella on craigslist for a good reasonable price on r12 and cans externals
    preserved very good ...now to gets some theory on compressor reseal and front seal
    replacement on youtube :)


    original price tags on cans $1.50 ....those were the days

    r12.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2019
  13. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    I wouldnt even mess with the A6. Get the Progen6. Direct replacement. takes less power to turn and the seals wont leak. upload_2019-3-27_7-45-35.jpeg
     
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  14. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    something to contemplate ....

    but in the last 6 months I have been lucky in piecing together separate buys (cheaply) on eBay
    for all the tools needed for clutch and seal removal/install,gauges and vacuum pump and it's
    been a 15 year restoration for me where I want to say "I did it " ..or did most of it :)
    --motor, trans ,rear end by others---
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2019
  15. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    Briz ...whats your opinion on a POA valve that has been sitting open for 15 years ?
    a/c worked perfect before taking all apart.
     
  16. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    I'd have loaned you all the stuff you needed. As far as the POA if it was stored inside and dry, try it. make sure its clean. If it was in a humid or wet location trash it.
     
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  17. TORQUED455

    TORQUED455 Well-Known Member

    I’ve doing it this way for 35 years - R12, R134A, R134a hybrid and R1234yf, even on my own cars. No, it’s not “text-book”, but if you’re smart about it (make sure water isn’t in your air hose, use a dryer, and use a strong vacuum pump to boil any moisture out), you will be good to go. Never had an issue, but I like to use full “line pressure”, not regulated down to 100 psi. Soapy water works well. I’ve been burned by the vacuum decay method. The system works under pressure, not vacuum, so you might miss a leak (I have).
     
    rex362 likes this.
  18. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    sounds good ...its dry and actually still hooked up onto evap line ...
     
  19. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    yes have filters/dryer on air hose ....whats the safest highest pressure to pump in there? ..and all pumped in the low side ,high side or both ?
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2019
  20. TORQUED455

    TORQUED455 Well-Known Member

    Full line pressure is typically 140-160 psi. It doesnt matter which side you pressurize, as the other side will presssurize along with it. It’s easier to watch your low pressure gauge for movement, so start pressuring (either or both) until the low side reaches 120 psi, close the valves note the exact starting point, and start listening and soaping everything up while keeping an eye on the gauge.
     
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