What's a good gauge metal to use as the main studs? What cement spec is good for foundation? Where do they have plans online I can look at? I'm going to post up some pictures of what I want. I'm also going to post pictures of local ads. Run them through you guys to see if you buy or pass. My goal is to build it myself and to buy all the material at a good price through craigslist or local farms.
Start there so we have an idea of what you want to build! What's your budget? Your climate (desert) must factor in.... do you just want sun/dust protection and use it for storage, Have it all air conditioned, or have a carport-style so you can work outside? Real air conditioning will require lots of insulation, but a carport may be comfortable with an evaporative cooler/swamp cooler.
Its hard to put a budget price up. I say I could spend 300 to 1000 a month on it buying supplies here and there. No ac for me because I like the heat. But heating would be nice for the winters that dip down to the 20's and freeze over. I do need the dust out. Another factor is wind. The wind is very strong here. would I higher gage of metal, deeper foundation or style be needed??? I could do a swamp cooler, small wall ac, electric heater. My job is cool were I can ask a lot of construction workers for tips too. I work on the pictures. First day off in 14 days.
'Strong wind' shouldn't require much extra over standard builds unless you're talking hurricane-force winds. You do want to build to keep wind-blown dust out. That means sealing all the gaps, and planning the ventilation. You won't need a super strong structure for the roof since you won't be getting 2 foot of heavy snow! An open carport wouldn't get as hot as an enclosed space, especially if there is a breeze. That might be a good working space for you. Shipping containers are good for build-as-you-go since you start with a sealed, secure 'box' that you can build additions onto. Downside is they aren't pretty (not that we care), and they are only 8 ft wide. The 40 ft long length is great for storing a car tho, not good for working on one. A conventional build, pole barn or stick-built, could be $15k plus. Check out the forums at www.garagejournal.com Lots of garage builds documented there.
And decide exactly what you want to use it for..... just for car storage, a work shop you will be welding/grinding/sanding bondo and painting, a clean room for building engines, a 'man cave' with relaxation or office area, lots of spare parts storage, etc.
Ok so I been at it with this garage project. I'm at 7 cars now and summer is coming with only 2 spaces for shade those are going for my daily drivers. I inclosed a space and put my 07 Buick in it so that one is protected. I ran through the chicken coop and tore down the 3 sections and the pos roof/made it one big section. I have a question for u guys. When people lay down concrete they put some type of metal before they pour it. Could I use the chain link fence or this wire fence for a base when I pour my concrete. I put a picture up of the wagon just for fun because I'm playing around with 2 tone paint jobs in my head.
I just have to work with I have. My brain, my back, my hands and much concrete in the future( I can spend on that) . Time is a md÷fkr too in how it just dont stop and degrigation of cars is daily, it's crazy how if you keep your car outside it gets pounded on the sun all day, moister collects on it nightly, grass and dirt will do damage underneath by adding moisture in the night. All these things happen within ONE DAY. From a cars point a view it's all happening to fast, and it take a toll. Add in the seasons and what ever your extreme is your car needs to be inside with a proper floor. . . I did pick these up for 200$. And I say $200 because I have to keep this on a budget. I'm willing to invest my time and body but my cash goes to the family and keeping everything else rolling and comfortable. As I get older I'll be more stable in my career but you got to crawl before you walk. It's been real fun and interesting as I been holding out on big buys when something comes my way for free or such an amazing price. Even my Buicks have been products of the above philosophy/ circumstance.
The fencing wire won't really help much as reinforcing in your concrete. I understand you need to stay in a budget, but some things you just need to do right, and your foundation is one of those things. Your entire building is supported by that foundation, don't cut corners on it. You can save money by doing as much of the work as you can. You'll have a lot of digging and dirt leveling to do, as well as other labor intensive stuff. At 7 cars, you would need a major building to keep those all inside. Maybe consider selling off a few to invest that money into a smaller, manageable building that could hold 2 or 3. You might be able to score some reasonably priced lumber from places that tear down buildings. Or offer to do that service for people and you keep what ever you salvage. Some of what you can and can't do depends on your building codes too.
Thanks Mike, to the trash with this material I go. I needed the importance of the foundation pounded in my head.
You can probably sell off the fencing to someone that wants to build a fence and use that towards buying the rebar for the foundation?
What is that stuff you got on the cheap? Looks like something that a car port would be made out of like a pan roof..
Structural steel wall channel and studs for industrial buildings or pre-engineered buildings you can buy as a kit and assemble. I use to use them alot building big box stores.
Used building materials and such sell like crazy around here. People sell (or try to) anything and everything they can. I had a pile of cheap vinyl siding that I was going to haul to the landfill, but instead I sold for $100. If you want a nice looking building that will stand true and straight and stand the test of time, you need a GOOD SOLID foundation. Cutting corners will just bite your rear end later. Whenever I do a concrete pour, I do all the prep myself, it's not that hard. Ground leveling, setting up forms, screeting fill, rerod etc. But when I am ready to do the pour, I hire 2-3 really good and experienced concrete guys to screet and finish it. I always pay these guys with cash when the job is done. I usually give them $100 each but sometimes more depending on experience level or size of the job. Around here we do a lot of "labor swapping" with friends and such. Keith
@1969RIVI answered it right I've been reading if I use two one facing each other how they were packaged for delivery they can be used as beams.
I've been reading if I use two one facing each other how they were packaged for delivery they can be used as beams.[/QUOTE] I'm not 100% sure on that? I would say on a non load bearing or interior wall yes. We would frame door openings with the channel on its flat with studs going into it vertically and it was fine. Most exterior walls were studded with a channel top and bottom but there was still structural steel beams and joists in place. We would Hilti shoot the top channel to the underside of the beam, tapcon bottom channel to the concrete floor then fill with the wall studs every 16". Most buildings we did were 20'-25' tall so the steel could do the span and was stronger than wood.
