Hi guys, I managed to remove my engine frame mounts (67 GS400) without removing the springs/LCA's. Now that I am trying to install the new frame mounts, I am having a bear of a time getting the bolts started........is removing the springs/LCA's what I am looking at? I have never done this before, and am imagining that there is some kind of trick (maybe?) that I haven't discovered yet? Anybody have any tips? Thanks, Ed
Well, You could try using a telescoping magnet tool, or a goose neck type to hold the nut/bolt. I would try ANYTHING to keep the springs in place, I've done plenty of front coil installs, with the proper tools, and it puts me on edge every time! Never had an issue or a fail, BUT, compressed coil springs are potential killers They're like cleaning a loaded gun.
I used a magnet in the end of a socket on a duct tape wrapped u-joint extension to get the bolts up into the holes. The magnet keeps the bolt in the socket though it can make it tough to get through the hole. The duct tape stiffened up the wobble of the u-joint enough so that I could steer it. Shine a light from the top through the hole you are aiming for to make sure you go to the right place. Then I taped all the bolts through the frame to hold them in place so I could be sure I could start all of them before I tightened up the frame pad. It took a while but it wasn't hard, just tedious.
Heres a trick I used many times on just such a job. Take a long piece of thin wire and wrap the end into the threads of the bolt so it looks like a spring and the bolt hangs from it. Push the other end up into the hole and out through the bolt hole you're aiming at and pull the bolt through the hole. Once its in place slide the mount over the wire as well. you can then use the sideways pressure from the mount against the bolt to hold it enough to unwind the wire and start the nut. MIght take several attempts for the first one. Once ya get the technique down its easy.
How old are the lower control arm bushings? Maybe this is an opportunity to replace rotted rubber bushings.
I did it and it was a bear for sure, but I was putting a 455 in a 350 car and I replaced the springs anyway.
Briz. I have used the same method many times over the years. Its like going fishing . and it has worked all the time for me. Just used it on my Avanti and the control arm bolts.
I know these bolts are smaller than 1/2 inch, but there are tools for just this. https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Curt/C58400.html And here are some more: search for bolt leader https://www.google.com/search?q=bol.....69i57j0l5.3503j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
The swivel socket set is your friend, not just the swivel , but socket with integrated socket, craftsman chrome short style, just broke my 3/8 one the other day. I use header bolts alot of times on the frame pads, well TA's Iron pads are different than they used to be, they aren't scalloped for bolt thread clearance and weren't even threaded all the way thru, off course you don't realize this till your "done" and notice they aren't sitting flat on the frame ha. Without those scallops for clearance the bolt can't seat so if those are the ones your using be aware of this
Wow! Some amazing tips and advice here! Thanks men. FYI, my suspension is new, including the springs. Zero miles on it. Of course, when I rebuilt it, I had no inkling that I would want to change out my motor frame mounts. I won't be able to give it a go until the weekend, but I will report back. Much obliged.
I pulled it through like this, then before removing the wire I did a little choker so it wouldn't fall back through the hole. I started a couple of them into the mount with needle nose pliers from the top side. Swivel sockets then buttoned them all down.
Hi Rick, Thanks very much for taking the time with the pics, etc. What do you mean "I did a little choker"?
No prob. Yeah sorry I didn't explain that very well. It's funny, when you see something in your head you expect everyone else can too.... LOL When the bolt is pulled up tight through the frame hole I used another piece of wire about 6 inches long and wrapped it twice around the bolt as close to the frame as possible and still be able to turn it easily. Then twisted the ends together so you can undo it when you get the bolt started in the mount. I have tubular "A" arms and understand they offer a little more wiggle room than stock so YMMV. Good luck sir! Take Care
I tack welded about a 6" length of welding rod to the end of each bolt in the center then fed it up thru the frame and bolt hole in the pad. Then you can turn the rod to start the bolt into the pad and just snap the rod off. Tighten the bolts using an extension and swivel. I used this method several times, goes pretty quick. Ken
Mission accomplished! Thanks again for all of your input. I used wire to guide and hold the bolts into the frame and I used duct tape to steady my wobbly socket swivels. I used a T handle driver to get the bolts started.
