Ballpark cost to replace floor pan in New England?

I tore my interior down to replace it & found some rust in the toe panel that wasn't addressed when the floor boards were replaced prior to me purchasing the car. Long story short the car had a resto years before I purchased it & now inspecting the work I can see where they took numerous short cuts on the floor pan install. They tack welded the braces to the floor boards instead of spot welds, they also tack welded the seat mounting nuts to the floor pans & just did a really poor job on the floor replacement so I think it's best to replace it all. Looking it over I'd be more comfortable having a shop replace entire pan & if they feel braces even though they look perfect to me.

Since the interior is completely removed I can't drive it to a shop for an estimate so I'm trying to get an idea of what approximate cost would be replace it all. Obviously if a shop felt it was best to keep the braces or replace them or even just repair it I would be fine with that as long as it's safe when done, she's no show car so I'm looking for a safe repair vs restoration correct. I also realize that no one can give a concrete price without actually cutting into the car but I need a ballpark idea to start. Anyone have an idea what to expect for cost or even a suggestion where to bring it in NH?

 

I would charge around 1200 to 2k labor depending on how it fit and how you wanted it finished

 

Never parted a Convertible but am guessing there is extra floor braces/bracing underneath the floor sheet metal.

 

None that I recall,..

 

Carl,

You can purchase an entire floor pan assembly from Jegs for about $650. 00 shipped to you. It will include all the braces and seat belt nuts already attached. Basically you would demo all the existing floor and install the new one in one shot.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Metal-Direct/106/400-3468/10002/-1

I'm not certain if you would need to remove the side braces at the door jamb (lock side) or not. Perhaps someone who has done this job will chime in. It looks like you will also need the toe pan(s) if you go that route.

You should protect your windshield, remove the seat belts and wiring harness before they need replacing, too.

 

that’s a great price, I’ve been looking at Ames performance since they’re about two hours from me but that price shipped is really good from Jegs. My problem is that while I’ve turned wrenches before I can barely stick two pieces of metal together with a welder & worried about taking a project like that on without some serious help. Plus we will be listing the house soon which is my motivation for finally getting the interior in it. If I found someone to do the work at a reasonable price or even pay someone for their time helping me I figure now is the time, life will only get busier once we are all back to work full time.

 

Yes the side Braces need to come out to put the one piece floor in. The toe boards can be troublesome to match up with the bends in the original toeboards and firewall.

 

It's not a job for a novice,...

 

For someone that us used to a tac welder or gas I would think this would be pretty straight forward. Just my opinion.

 

Welding is the easy part. The hours of cutting and fitting is where the skill comes in.

 

Exactly burning it in is monkey work,..getting in fitted and prepped is not,..and fyi a one piece floor will only go in from the bottom in most cases,...soooo

 

... lifting the body is required.

 

All great points guys, I appreciate the discussion. What about just the one piece floor pan & saving the original floor braces? The braces look solid, does that help the install? I realize it’s a ton of spot welding to the braces but does it help with the fitting & monkeying part?

 

Looking at the pictures I would fix what you have. No need to slice the whole car apart. Fix the toe boards and clean up what you want from the original job. If you were so inclined you could drill the 100+ holes and plug weld the existing pans. You'd be pretty well versed in the welding by the last hole.

 

Yes, the one piece floor section may be a better way to go for you due to limited time. You may need to get creative with fitting things in, but, it would work. I have found that the floor sections don't exactly match the original contour but a little persuasion can go a long way.
Perhaps for the season you could just put a patch pan in and do the major install after you have moved and settled in. That way you can use the car over the summer and plan out the big job for the future. Just a thought.

http://www.autometaldirect.com/amd-front-floor-pan-patch-rh-p-851.html

http://www.autometaldirect.com/amd-front-floor-pan-half-rh-p-853.html

 

Honestly I would take it to Hugger and be done with it. The problem is he probably does not have time to do it. Some jobs are best left to others that have had experience especially since you are in a time factor. I know he is a little distance from you but you could rent a u-haul car trailer about $60 a day. It would be a long day trip down and back but not bad.
Things always seem to pop up when you are trying to do things in a hurry. If the braces are good many people like to leave them..

 

From what I can tell looking at the picture you would need the toe boards also. You could splice them so not to get up into the firewall.

 

While the interior is out you might want to check your convertible well top rain gutter and where it drains in the front part of the quarter that has drain holes. Then it drains into the rocker where it finally makes its way from the car. Make sure they are not plugged up with crap. If they are it will cause water to overflow into the floorboards, Just a thought....

 

I see you are in Rochester NH. I understand that Paintworks Unlimited in Dover has some Buick guys. It might be worth sharing your photos as they are local. I suspect our labor rates will be greater than in some other parts of the country... personally I would be careful you don't create a project you can't finish. Sometimes perfection is the enemy of safe and solid. Be sure to share how you make out with whatever you end up doing. I always learn from what folks learn along the way!

 

That was my original plan & then I got spooked when I saw the seat mounting nuts just tack welded to the underside of the pan. I can’t find a pic of how the seat mount nuts were originally mounted so if anyone has one I’d love to see it.

I already have the front floor pan patch you linked, I was ready to install that until I dug in deeper.

Agreed, I have a truck & have access to a trailer, just need someone that I can trust willing to do the job. I’m not sure where Hugger is located but driving a few hours doesn’t scare me. I average about 1000 miles a week driving for my job & haul a fifth wheel trailer camping in the summer.