Beginners Body Work

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by Christopher Spouse Drew, Dec 22, 2018.

  1. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    Okay so I'm getting a nice original 71 hood tonight for my car, it's an extra so I can take my time and learn on it.

    So let's start with what tools and materials to use? What's the best brand for bondo?

    And once I have my materials and tools, where do I begin, I think the hood is in primer right now. Should I go all the way down to the metal? I want to make sure there isn't any rust underneath. And if I do what's the best product to keep bare metal from rusting?

    Give me your tips, tricks, videos, anything! Thanks I'm advance.
     
  2. Donuts & Peelouts

    Donuts & Peelouts Life's 2 Short. Live like it.

  3. Donuts & Peelouts

    Donuts & Peelouts Life's 2 Short. Live like it.

    You'll need a hammer and dolly set,
     
  4. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    Look at the cliff notes linked above.
    I would take off the primer as you don’t know what kind of body work was done. Also it’s not bondo its body filler. Bondo is a brand that is crap.
     
  5. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

  6. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    As far as Filler brand you'll have much better adhesion and easier sanding with 3M Platinum, Rage Gold, Klingspor Supreme, USC has a couple that cut nice also I have used nothing but the 3M Platinum since it come out, that stuff ever coat metal glaze ultra are the best thing since chicken nuggets. Dolphin Glaze and USC have putties I like too
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2018
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  7. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    Okay great I'll get 3m Platinum. I'm going to take the hood to bare metal. How should I do this? And when I do, what product is best for keeping that bare metal rust proof?
     
  8. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Da or 9in sander with 80 grit or start with 36 and go back over it with 80, once stripped as long as your work area is dry, you can leave it indefinitely as long as you dont touch it, but it's best to get epoxy on it.
     
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  9. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    Okay so get it to bare metal, apply epoxy, then apply 3m Platinum? I think i asked you this in the past, what can I sand blast and what shouldnt I?
     
  10. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Either way, you can do the filler work on the epoxy its technically the "correct" way, but certainly not required. You can blast the edges, one of the "speed blasters" works well for small areas with minimal mess to clean up. But do not blast large open areas, you can do compound shape areas as they are rigid enough. You can blast the grills at the back just keep it moving dont blast in one area too long
     
  11. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    Okay and what about sandblasting the whole car? everything but the fenders and doors and deck lid? and what epoxy do you use?

    which 3m platinum do you use? https://www.amazon.com/3M-31131-Pla...t=&hvlocphy=9012021&hvtargid=pla-571637932788

    https://www.amazon.com/3M-01171-Pla...ocphy=9012021&hvtargid=pla-760289615752&psc=1
     
  12. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    The regular Platinum, the Select may just be the new name for what was the "Platinum Plus" it's good but I always like the original stuff better. See if you can find the Klingspor Supreme it's the same stuff as 3m made by the same manufacturer. Marson was the original manufacturer and it was so well liked 3m bought them. But anyway only blast edges, door jambs, window channels and the rocker pinch welds, firewall etc, stay off the roof , 1/4s and deck filler panel

    Southern Polyurethanes has a nice 1:1 epoxy, or Ppg Dp line ,or Shopline cant remember what the part # is for shopline, it's just their second line same product tho
     
  13. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    If you can afford it I would use Dustless Blasting. Sandblasting creates heat which warps metal. Especially sheet metal. If you do blast do as mentioned & ONLY do edges.
     
  14. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    So you can dustless blast the whole entire car without damage?
     
  15. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Dustless would be fine its about $1200 I really prefer to just sand it off personally.
     
  16. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    haha for 1200 I prefer sanding it too
     
  17. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    I called just the other week and that's what I was quoted to do the jambs , engine bay and dance over the panels,...they have already been stripped by Sanders but by kids at school and they insist on fondling and molesting any bare metal they see so it's got a nice coat of hand prints and water spots etc
     
  18. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    haha sounds like the kids in my class. I will be sanding it or maybe using airplane stripper? I'm more concerned about the metal work, im scared to see what happens when i get down to bare metal. Have to buy and learn how to weld quick haha.
     
  19. Christopher Spouse Drew

    Christopher Spouse Drew Well-Known Member

    I got the hood, what a score for 100 bucks! It's super clean, only very little bubbling on the edge of the hood for an inch or two.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    It depends on what kind of paint is on there, and how many times it's been repainted.
    Stripper works great on enamel, it wrinkles up and almost falls off. Lacquer just melts, and may take a couple applications to get it all off. I use a sharpened putty knife to scrape the softened lacquer/primer down to bare metal.
    You can sand or grind it off too. It'll make a lot of dust. Do you have a good compressor? A DA sander?

    If the underside paint is in good condition, you can just scuff it up with red scotchbrite, prime, and paint.

    x2 on the epoxy primer. You can even put the plastic filler on top of the primer.
     

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