69 GS 350 body stripped of everything just shell I have been putting off the body work because I not sure if I should have the body blasted or dipped blasting is a lot cheaper but dipping won't warp panels. Any input about either one
The warping risk seems to be dependent upon the material used to do the blasting. Can you get it soda blasted?
If u dip, u must reseal everything. Warpage depends on the medium and the technician performing the blasting.
Most all paint manufactures are not warranting any of their products if applied over Soda. The best way IMO is blast jambs and strip outside with sandpaper, start with a hog and a box of 36 and 80
Hugger is correct about soda. It can be done but it takes much proper prep afterwards, not worth the risk in my opinion. Also I looked into dipping the body years back and I talked to six to eight people that had horror stories and some sent me pictures. From what I found it must be rinsed thoroughly, baked to neutralize, stop seepage and erosion. It scared me enough not to do it. Nelson
I'd go with dipping, and e-coating if it is offered in your area. I've had several done through the years and here's one tip I need to pass on to anyone thinking about doing it. Before you deliver it, drill an 1/8" hole everywhere where you feel an air pocket could develop (i.e. top of rear fenderwells. driveshaft tunnel, even one in the middle of the roof). If you don't do this and an air pocket forms when they submerge the body, that area will not get cleaned. I learned this the hard way, of course Then just weld them up when you get it back.
Dipping is a major process. Anything aluminum (body tags) has to be removed and as mentioned every bit of seam sealer is gone. There is seam sealer in places you can't get to reapply it. Seemed waaay too invasive for me when I researched having it done. Professional shops strip cars by media blasting everyday with no problem. Yes there are some horror stories of panel warping by the inexperienced. Just like anything you have to vet the shop and make sure they know what they are doing. You want someone who does whole cars often and has an employee who has been doing it for years. Another tidbit to find out is how much time a blaster will take to vacuum and blow out the media from cracks and crevices.
Just an FYI... Dry Ice blasting is pretty common these days. Very little warpage, and no moisture (read puddles) in door corners etc to start the process all over again. I think one of the major considerations is really, how clean are you gonna get it and how clean does it really need to be? The PO did mine and even blasted the inside of the doors, BUT neglected getting 100% of the debris out. The car sat for 20 years in an unheated dirt floor Morton building and nature took over from there... Clean it how ever, but prime it 2-3 times with a really thin zinc type of primer to really get into the nooks and crannies. This is outside and way down inside the door corners. The outside looks the worst. The solution would've been to pull the door skins off the frames. I am surely NOT going to go that far! White cars suck for showing rust BTW... Bill in TR Four door corners and two lower front fenders to address. Not even gonna look at the rear door jamb/quarter panel areas.
Had my 72 Stage 1 Dipped 18yrs ago. Awesome! Have no regrets! Car was from New Mexico. But you know what that means. Sand storms . they had a Earl Schibb paint on the car . thick enamel. After car was dipped in Feb. (best time to do no humidity) Anyway the only down side to dipping is washing the whole car down with metal conditioner to wash of sulphuric residue. have to chisel the body sealer of that's clinging on. I power washed it with steam jenny standing body on firewall. car barely touched ceiling . I had tall stainless pump bottles ( that insect control guys use) full of lacquer thinner to hose down car right after power washing! so the metal would not flash rust. After sitting 2 weeks to pick off sealer in the cracks! then I took a clean Cotten T -Shirt dampened with water and RUST-MORT then ringed out tight. then lightly wipe metal on car . The flash rust disappeared. Then all sheet metal Epoxied with STANDOX ( SpiesHecker). If I restored another a Buick I would do it again.
My dad blasts all his cars and pays around $600-800 for it. Last car was a 72' Pantera and it came back with a couple more holes. But he said not warping or anything on this one, but he has had that in the past.
