BMR Extreme rear sway bar

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by gusszgs, Mar 4, 2018.

  1. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    Just wondering if anyone here is running the Extreme BMR rear sway bar. If so, how do you like it? Any issues installing. Looking for some input as I’m considering installing this on my ‘71 GS. Looks to be a nice bar.
    Part # I’m looking at is XSB006H for my 8.5 10 bolt 3” axle tubes.
    TIA
    Jim
     
  2. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    Jim, The BMR bar is similar to the Spohn Performance #922. I use the their Pro-Touring version also. I'm a firm believer in the "Solid" bars because as an owner of an Automotive Repair/Restoration facility I have had at least 2 vehicles in my shop that had broken "hollow" bars. They broke at the end link mounting points (which seems obvious). Keep in mind that there are folks that are satisfied with their hollow sway bars. If you would like to read more on the BMR rear sway bar, you could go to the Team Chevelle forum and find what you are looking for. I haven't installed the bar you are inquiring about but by everything I see, ..... I would be willing to use one.

    Larry
     
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  3. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    Thanks Larry
    I understand what you saying in regard to the hollow bars, but is there a hollow one available for the rear of an A body?
    I’ve never seen one but I’m no Suspension guru by any stretch.
    I installed an ATR style on the rear of my ‘87 T and I’m very happy. I believe it’s 1 3/8” bar. Yet bolts to the lower arms. This BMR is more of an H&R style, but a little easier on the wallet. That’s why I was considering it.
     
  4. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    HR makes a hollow rear A-Body bar.
    The Spohn Performance #922 ($399.00) is an exceptional bar (comes in black also).
    [​IMG]

    Larry
     
  5. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    wow, I would have thought the H&R rear bar would have been hollow . I find that a surprise
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2018
  6. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    I had a Sphon bar, my experience with it wasn't that great, it's a VERY heavy duty piece, with huge rod ends which is great, Their clamp design could be better but it works, what I had issues with is the arms are too short to properly locate the end links, if mounted where intended the end links sit at a 45° angle , and can even flip up when launched, I called them and explained the issue guy basically said I was an idiot and didn't know what I was doing, so I sent several pics and you guessed it no response, I called back and he said that it makes no sense and that I must have a "different frame" and "wheelbase"...ha, So I built two platforms that I welded to my frame that positioned the end links update so they could do their job correctly. That was my experience with it.

    The BMR has multiple hole locations so I would venture to say that it will be fine in regards to the mounting issue I experienced.

    Paul goes in great detail as to why he chose to do a hollow bar, and the "science" behind it. But I agree the solid Sphon bar was more attractive to me strength wise, as was the price so I went that direction
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2018
  7. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

  8. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    Sounds like poor customer service on Spohn's part, .... or the person you talked to at Spohn was the idiot. Regardless, there is always something I do to just about everything aftermarket that I feel I can improve on. One thing I used on a customers '67 Chevelle (the attached photos) was the Fays 2 Front Mount brackets. Was it absolutely necessary, ... No but it saved me a little time. Folks should keep in mind that as the axle housing moves up and down, it moves in a slight arch. In doing so the links do not remain in their installed position throughout the complete travel. I found that by setting up the links with a slight angle forward at the top that they will straighten out (but never perfectly) as the axle housing articulates, and as the axle moves up from it's ride height position the bar will straighten out ... thus moving the lower link attachment point forward. I would agree that 45* would be way too much of an angle and not acceptable. I also add stop collars to every bar up against the inside of the saddle bushings. I (Always) weld the saddle perches onto the axle tubes no matter what brand bar I install, ...period! I am not a representative of Spohn Performance but I still prefer their Sway Bars even though our main commercial wholesale warehouse supplier is a BMR and UMI distributor and doesn't even carry Spohn. The UMI is a "hollow" bar, so for me and my customers it is out of the running. If the BMR is an easier install and fits better then I would give it serious consideration because it is a Solid bar, ..... but personally I will only install "Solid" sway bars on my customers vehicles and my own.
    [​IMG]

    100_4293.JPG 100_4336.JPG

    Larry
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2018
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  9. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    I will add my car was setup to separate not squat so it actually would lift in the rear.
     
  10. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    Good point Ethan! For strong launching cars that see 100% track time then the "lift set up" is in effect all the time (during the launch) on the left wheel, .... not so much on the right side as that is whole purpose for installing a massive link style bar to correct or compensate that affect in the first place. In that case I believe it would be advantageous to set the links as to be vertical under launch which with the Spohn kit may need some thought and fabrication to achieve. So as a direct bolt on plug and play installation this may not be the best choice, aside from the brute strength of the bar itself as Ethan pointed out. Even though I always incorporate upper lift relocation arms on my customers and my personal A-Body car's, I feel our real life sees way more street use (with exception of occasional testing :cool:) where in turn it will .... sad to say have to "squat" (compression) over all the bumps in the road as well as when passengers are on board, hence my feeling on the link positioning as mentioned in my previous post.

    Larry
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2018
  11. carmantx

    carmantx Never Surrender

    We use the Spohn bar and didn't have any set up issues. It has been on a few years. Their instructions were good and we spent the time to understand and set up our car. We were getting 1.40 60' with small drag radials with it. We also have the Spohn adjustable upper and lower bars.
     
  12. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    All good info guys appreciate it, not sure what route I'll go yet but this helps. I've got to get these 60's down this year, just leaving too much on the table.
    Is there a beefy ATR style bar that mounts to the lower arms for our A bodies? I have H&R lower arms. I run A 12/8" ATR style on my '87 T and my god what a difference that bar made to the car. Basic '87 T with mostly stock suspension and I pulled off a 1.58 last year. Best I could muster with GS is a 1.68 IIRC
     
  13. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    I went 1.53's on 325/50's with bone stock and I mean stock suspension, monroe shocks and all, Jim Rodgers had went high 1.30's with stock stuff too, so it's possible. I would look at the converter before I started suspension mods jmo
     
  14. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    You trap close to 120 correct?
     
  15. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    Years ago I bought a Herb Adams 1-1/2" rear OEM style sway bar. It weighed a ton and I wasn't happy with the poor fit to the lower arms. I would have had to machine up a couple wedge shape spacers to make it work, which wasn't the end of the world but that's right about the time all the link style bars were coming out so I sold it and bought the Spohn.
    My Skylark would 60ft at 1.44 on a decent track with the Morrison/Gazan upper bars on the lowest setting and a 1" OEM style bar. Problem started when I fabbed up a torque strap. That transfers all the engine torque directly to the frame, ... wanting to separate the body/chassis from the rear axle assembly in a clockwise rotation. Hence lifting the the left side.

    Larry
     
  16. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    Hugger if you asking me on the trap speed, yes 122 to be exact with my GS

    I can only leave a tad above idle to get a good hook. If I load the converter (4000 Coan) at all it completely blows the Hoosiers off
     
  17. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Keep in mind a crappy track will only do so much. Does it spin at all tracks? What size tire?, What you running for shocks?
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2018
  18. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    11.5'' QT Hoosiers.........I only go to one track, usually prepped decent. Shocks are brand new Bilstein's
     
  19. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    28 or 29.5 tall? Your money will be better spent on adjustable shocks jmo, what about your springs up front what are they?

    With the 5230 Moog springs , Viking shocks and the Sphon bar I could put a few inches of space under the fronts on the Street,..was lots-o-fun ha
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2018
  20. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    everything is stock elsewhere, cept for comp engineering 90/10's up front........oh, single air bag on PS too The Hoosiers are 27''
     

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