body seam fix

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by groundhound, Mar 22, 2011.

  1. groundhound

    groundhound Well-Known Member

    I have a 72 Skylark. My friend and I are currently doing some body work and ran across a factory seam. It was partial Bondo and Lead. My friend already removed the lead filler and seems to think he can weld a piece of metal as a replacement. (I am learning as we go). Is this ok to do? Can putting filler in its place be sufficient? Any recommendations? thanks
     

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  2. Racerx88

    Racerx88 Platinum Level Contributor

    This was a factory seem.
    You need to put it back just like the Fisher Body would have done it to retain body shell strength.
     
  3. Houndogforever

    Houndogforever Silver Level contributor

    Why would you want to remove the lead in the first place?
     
  4. 2791 lark custo

    2791 lark custo Gold Level Contributor

    My 72 convertible has a seem just like the one in your pic. mine is at the trunk extention. PUT IT BACK the way it was. Better safe then sorry
     
  5. JESUPERCAT

    JESUPERCAT No Slow Boat

    We have had very good luck using short strand/cream tiger hair for all the factory seam repairs. Does not absorb water like standard body fillers.
    Many times the lead will shrink or peel away from the steel after this many years. It is amazing how much tarnish and rust "can" be present under the lead.
    I can post the brand and type used if needed.
     
  6. 2791 lark custo

    2791 lark custo Gold Level Contributor

    Would this be strong enough?? I don't like the lead, but have been told it is there for extra strength.
     
  7. JESUPERCAT

    JESUPERCAT No Slow Boat

    Chuck the panels are already welded together. You can and I have added some welds to some of the cars for various reasons over the years.
    Lead was a primary body filler when these car came out. I have worked on many old cars that had lead repairs -vs- body filler that had been damaged before 1974:Do No: .
    The type of filler I am talking about is fiber reinforced which is far stronger than regular fillers.
     
  8. groundhound

    groundhound Well-Known Member

    I didn't want to remove the lead. My partner decided to before I could say wait. It was weird though part lead part filler. I would have rather just added more lead to the seam.
     
  9. pglade

    pglade Well-Known Member

    Is the car a vinyl top car from the factory?
     
  10. groundhound

    groundhound Well-Known Member

    Stock vinyl top. I took it off and decided not to put on a new one.
     
  11. GSXER

    GSXER Well-Known Member

    Go right ahead and weld it up. Lead was the quick fix back in the day before they figured out it will kill you.Most top shops are now welding these seams shut eliminating the cracks that tend to occur .Also you remove the risk of warping the metal as lead melts at 300 + degrees and needs to be nuetralized as it is applied with acids that dont like paint.
     
  12. rusty riv

    rusty riv Active Member

    The factories used lead on seams (and still do sometimes to fix body damage) before painting because the heat used to dry the paint will melt plastic. They used lead because it sets up fast (cools) and as soon as it left the lead area the next stop on the assembly line was the sanding and filing station. When I worked at a Buick dealer in the 80's I went on a tour of the GM plant in Baltimore. I watched them leading seams and the leading was an art. RUSTY RIV. (lead is not structural)
     
  13. groundhound

    groundhound Well-Known Member

    very cool info. Their are cracks where the lead seam was. Just like GSxer said. May weld the crack then make a cardboard stencil and cut out a metal piece to get as flush as I can then add filler.
     

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