Bolt Restoration Tricks

Discussion in 'Chassis restoration' started by BuickV8Mike, Sep 12, 2020.

  1. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    What's your process? I usually start with Muriatic acid. This time I'm starting with Metal Rescue. ;) I bought Gun Blue to follow up it didn't really work. What do you do?

    Cheers,
    Mike
     
  2. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    I lived on the edge and wire wheeled all the OEM bolts used during my recent build.

    Then I used Eastwood Zinc Phosphate spray bomb on them.

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    OHC JOE likes this.
  3. Doo Wop

    Doo Wop Where were you in '62?

    I used to glass bead them first. Put 12-15 bolts in a small wire basket and blast away.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2020
  4. JoeBlog

    JoeBlog Platinum Level Contributor

    There’s a YouTube channel called “my mechanics” and the guy there bead blasts, then chases the threads with a die, and lightly sands the edges till they’re smooth again. Then, he heats them up and drops them in oil. Makes ‘em black for keeps and rustproofs them as well. It’s an addictive channel; when I was sick with Covid, I used it to distract me from what was happening. Now I can’t stay away from it. The guy is a genius.
     
    Dano likes this.
  5. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    The my mechanics guy is an artist. I love his stuff. But he rarely just fixes bolts...he makes new ones :D:D
     
    JoeBlog likes this.
  6. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    I'll have to try this. Ive got a few hundred fasteners for my Scout to deal with
     
    JoeBlog likes this.
  7. 2dtrak

    2dtrak Gold Level Contributor

    Bead blast then a minute in Eastwood’s blackening solvent / rinse in distilled water. . U can satin clear or soak in mixture of 50/50 trans fluid and wd40. If I have a bunch to do at once they go on tumbler first but always go in bead blaster after. The older / finer glass polishes them nicely
     
    12lives likes this.
  8. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    You NEVER run a regular tap or die over bolts or holes. Removes needed metal. Use a clean up tap & die set. It JUST cleans/dresses the threads.
    On IMPORTANT fasteners, head bolts, main bolts, engine holding together bolts, NEVER run them on a wire wheel because it rounds the threads.
    Just like regular taps & dies now you have loose bolts & nuts. Not a good thing on important fasteners. I know it's kinda quick & easy BUT try & refrain from doing it.
    Just my thoughts on the subject.

    Tom T.
     
    dynaflow, JoeBlog and Dano like this.
  9. NZ GS 400

    NZ GS 400 Gold Level Contributor

    I assumed that the engine bolts shouldn't be reused anyway.
     
  10. gsjo

    gsjo Platinum Level Contributor

  11. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Wirewheel/beadblast to clean, plate with Cadwell zinc plating kit, then colorize with either the blue, yellow, or blackener.
    I've tried the black oxide but the hardware will rust unless you keep applying a sealer or oil. The zinc plating method will keep the hardware nice for 10+ years.
    It's a great method for doing a few parts at a time, as needed. Can do anything from nuts & bolts to brackets to carb linkages, shifter parts, and even fuse box terminals.

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  12. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Thanks all for the ideas!

    Hey Walt,
    Is that kit from Eastwood? Does it work on 12 volts? I want one. :):):)

    Cheers,
    Mike
     
  13. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    I use a tumbler too. I just upgraded - used for $30. It holds 6 Lbs! I use play sand so its not too aggressive and its cheap. After cleaning with thinner I hit them with satin rustoleum.

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    Dano likes this.
  14. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    It's from Caswell plating, the Copy Cad kit:
    https://caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/zinc-plating-kits.html

    They formerly came with a wall-mount power pack. Now it costs extra.... and the kits cost a lot more too!
    The power pack I got with my kit (10+ years ago) has selectable voltage from 1.5 to 12 v. 1.5v is fine for small parts. Large parts (more surface area) will need higher power.
    Caswell has a forum on their site too:

    https://forum.caswellplating.com/

    I like the DIY kits as it's handy for occasional use.
    If you have a bunch of hardware to replate, there may be an industrial plater that can do them for you. There's usually a minimum charge.

    DIY Phosphate coating (aka Parkerizing) is another method. GM used that method on a lot of hardware and even hood hinges and brackets.
     
    Dano likes this.

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