Hey guys. I realized my brakes are leaking between the cylinder and the booster. About 4 years ago I had the front drums and shoes done by a good shop. I did notice that recently after a small leak started. I don't know if it was inadvertent just from age. You can tell by the photo that it's probably had it's day. Just looking for advice on a path forward. By the way, the car does stop well and there isn't any sponginess or other pedal problems.
Just pick up a new master. Spray the lines and make sure to use a flare but wrench not a regular wrench. The new mastsr should come with a bench bleeder. Not too bad.
X2... But, please consider a swap over to a two piston master cylinder. If you pop a line the pedal is going to the floor, and thatll happen when you need them the most! I also gave my rebuilt unit a liberal 3 doses of clear to keep it looking good for a while... seems to have worked. ws
Years ago my auto mechanics instructor said that when you bleed brakes after replacing wheel cylinders or calipers, it's common for the brake lite to come on several weeks later and the master cylinder to fail.. This is due to the fact that during the bleeding process, the master cylinder travels much farther than it does during braking. This causes the seals in the master cylinder to travel over all of the crud in the bore beyond the normal travel. I've had this happen several times. I know that you said brakes were done 4 years ago, but you probably don't use this car every day. Or maybe it's leaking because it's 50 years old. Regardless of the reason it's leaking, it should be replaced.
Yes, it is very important to not "over-stroke" a dual master cylinder. If you go to a dual master, follow the bleeding instructions carefully.
Yes, the front and rear brakes will be on separate hydraulic circuits. When you remove the master cylinder, make sure that there isn't fluid in the booster. There probably is, so it should be replaced it will probably need to be replaced, anyway, when going to a dual master. To do it right, you should have a proportioning valve, as well. If you don't have a whole bunch of experience with this, I'd recommend that you enlist the aid of someone who does. Brakes are one thing that have to be right, all the time.
Couple of ways to do this.... 1) buy a complete conversion kit with master cylinder, brake lines and a distribution block. http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-A-Bod...es-/191583324280?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275 or 2) remove the line for the rear brakes from the existing distribution block, add a coupler to the rear brake line and add a new line to the master cylinder. Then install a plug in the distribution block where the rear brake line was. Existing distribution block is still used for the front brake lines. You don't need a proportioning valve unless you convert to front disk brakes.
Thanks for the advice. I am not terribly familiar with brakes, but I am lucky that there is a mechanic in town who knows old cars. I'm going to go have a talk with him. What I do know is leaking brakes is positively bad.
I admire your desire to get a good handle on this, so as not to poo-poo the job, you should consider having the guy change out the rear wheel cylinders too. Chances are fair to good one or both bleeders are gonna break off when opening them. Then theres leaking pistons/seals all over again with another bleed job. Brakes are just one of those taken for granted things that require due diligence! A close inspection of all the 60 y.o. stuff is time well spent. I'm guessing the fronts were already ALL done including hoses etc?? AND THEN... Have the guy put a dab of NEVER SEIZE on the bolts and bleeders! Tell him I told ya so LOL! ws
ONLY if that "never seize" has NO PETROLEUM products in it. I've never used anti-seize on a brake line (I live in the desert in California) and I'd sooner trash a brake line and bleeder screw than use any sort of anti-seize. YMMV
Youre lucky you live where its dry. Once again, I am referring to enough NS as to rolling the threaded parts on a dab between the thumb and for finger and a slight film on the tubing where the fittings spin. Not uncommon to actually get a line fitting loose only to have it rusted to the tube and then have to twist the tube off and break. Now theres a section to replace. The NS is supposed to stay on the OUTSIDE of the system. Temper prudence! Of course there are those that would immerse the end in the can and suck it up like a straw. No mileage variation there LOL...Aluminum caliper bleeders are the worst. Location is everything... My 2000 Silverado had terminal cancer, but the clearcoat was still as shiny as could be on the hood and roof. That's what the "rust belt" lifestyle is about. ws
I believe the rear wheel cylinders were done. I will have to ask when he can see better. I did remember about the hoses as I was driving away. Those for sure are old and need replaced.
Is this something I can do myself? I have some wrenching experience. Not enthusiastic about paying 4 or 5 hundred to replace a master cylinder.
Sure! It's basic mechanical stuff. About the worst situation you may run into is brake line fittings that are rusted solid to components..... it is possible to damage lines beyond repair if they get twisted up during attempted removal.. Your best bet would likely to buy the dual master conversion kit with lines and junction block, 2 front brake hoses, 1 rear hose, and 4 wheel cylinders. Check Rockauto or your local parts store for the standard replacement stuff. The dual master kit can be gotten from any of the brake specialists.... Inline tube, The Right Stuff, or even a large resto supplier.
I watched a few youtube videos on the subject. Starting with removal: I get myself some 'freeze off' to loosen the rusted nuts that hold the cylinder to the booster. I loosen and remove the line going to the booster. Say I get this far, and am able to bench bleed a new master cylinder. Then what? Do I have to bleed each brake to remove the remaining air? By the way, the fluid didn't look great. Not horrible but definitely not clear the way it should be. I also tested the booster by making sure the pedal depressed when I turned on the motor. So I think the booster is fine.
