Getting close here and a couple of things bother me. 1, The Valve body gaskets are a little different but no makings like stock gaskets like VB and C and nothing in the directions. 2, When you push the trans-brake solenoid in, the part that moves, the valve goes in a little farther than the slots. 3, Do I use the stock deep pan?
I didn't get any help from TCI tech even after sending pics to Bennett. I match the VB gasket that had the bigger holes to the case by the center support holes. For the other concern we will see. The other concern now was the yoke not going all the way in because there was a boss and oring where the normal output shaft doesn't have. I machined off the first land so we will see once it's installed if there is enough room when the driveshaft is installed. I won't buy another TCI brake again unless they will start supporting the buyers of their product.
Got it together and took the driveshaft to the correct Patterson drive shaft guy. Chuck Patterson son of Charlie Patterson. Found him in Morrisville Indy. The shaft was .130+ out of round bent!!! He made a new shaft for a good deal!!! I think I know what is causing me to eat up shafts and breaking the Bell. The shaft to trans angle was the wrong way over .050 meaning that the trans is pointing down to the shaft and should be pointing up. This should be a problem with most Buicks that came with a stock 455 and a T400. The trans should be higher then the shaft going down to the rear end. My shaft is higher than the trans. I have a 3 degree angle at the rear end but a negative angle at the trans meaning the engine and trans combo needs to be up higher to get that angle. I had washers under the mounts to make it easier to install the engine! Wrong!!! I took the washers out and still have 0 degrees with the trans jacked up hitting the floor to get this. They say 3 degrees at the trans and 3 degrees at the rear end and that will be perfect. Offsetting the angles for no vibration and little needle bearing wear in the caps. I'm at the point now of what to do. Do I alter the trans tunnel to raise the trans more or try to make the engine sit lower to get the back of the trans up more. If I jack the trans up and use spacers then it will be 0 at the trans to shaft but still be 3 at the rear end which is ok at the rear. Need help for this. Remember this is stock locations on a 70 GS 455 engine and trans car made by the factory.
Got 0 on the trans to shaft and 4 on the pinion. But I found another problem. I have an oil leak at the back of the engine now and it seems to be running richer as I was loading it in the trailer. I wonder if I broke the rear main web when the case broke? I haven't tried to find the leak yet but Might need a machined .030 block and crank or a balanced short block to assemble myself. I have a 76 block that I was going to put in the Regal but I have no where I can trust to do the machine work. I have to have it balanced to a Romac balancer and a JW flex-plate. I might trade a car for a short block!!!!
