Broken main cap bolts on a 455

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by 69SkylarkGS, Dec 14, 2019.

  1. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Send it to Jim Weise for a complete 500 hp rebuild:cool:
     
  2. 69SkylarkGS

    69SkylarkGS Well-Known Member

    I wish lol, I don’t have 15k to drop on an engine. I’m a single dad with both my kids full time. If I don’t do it myself or with the help of a buddy I’m pretty much out of luck.
     
  3. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Its not rocket science, you can do it!
     
    Mark Demko likes this.
  4. 69SkylarkGS

    69SkylarkGS Well-Known Member

    It’s either that or I’ll create a boat anchor trying lol. I do appreciate the words of encouragement!
     
  5. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I would disassemble everything, and have the crank checked at the least for straightness and cracks.
    Im just thinking here, If that LeSabre was rear ended hard enough to total it, was the rear axle shoved forward along with the driveshaft, into the transmission, then into the crank?
    Probably a long shot but yah never know.
     
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  6. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Where abouts do you live?
     
  7. 69SkylarkGS

    69SkylarkGS Well-Known Member

    Myrtle Beach, SC
     
  8. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Dang. I'm in the Florida Panhandle, else I would offer to assist with engine specific tools. :/
     
  9. 69SkylarkGS

    69SkylarkGS Well-Known Member

    I do appreciate the offer! Too bad I’m not closer to you.
     
  10. 69SkylarkGS

    69SkylarkGS Well-Known Member

    Just an update,

    After a lot of thought I decided to wait and save up money to send the motor to a machine shop. I found one where they said they have experience with Buick engines. I pulled the heads and cam in preparation to send it over hopefully sometime this week. Here’s what it looked like inside.


    153402C1-1102-49BE-9A6B-3DD38B1C6B41.jpeg 500161F7-98CA-44EB-8AB8-5002F4535F70.jpeg 9018F27B-A56D-4D27-8A85-1F5B61B81E4F.jpeg 0DF99141-8A9F-4440-A07A-9FF0BEB1CE0C.jpeg 9B2A5742-2EF2-4811-9E86-3FC91D8C2CD8.jpeg 9F3EBD2C-11F4-4E92-A42B-0B78D5D4F532.jpeg 4EB8BD68-7206-450D-907E-7D99922DEEBE.jpeg B3EB7732-1F1F-4D96-A6E5-857BA11897EF.jpeg F02F4D3F-97BB-431C-B73B-B4121AD70900.jpeg 12D21172-ABEF-457C-A2E2-B770FEC525F1.jpeg
     
  11. 69SkylarkGS

    69SkylarkGS Well-Known Member

  12. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Looks like some water got in there, hopefully not too pitted, a set of .038 pistons, some basic oil mods, and some resizing of the critical holes sizes, balance and some main studs and rods bolts timing cover and enjoy
     
    69SkylarkGS likes this.
  13. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Hopefully, the new pistons are taller (and lighter!) so you don't need to take so much off the decks to get the pistons level (zero deck). Ideally, the decks wouldn't be cut more than it takes to get them square to the crank saddles.

    Too bad there's rust in the cylinders. Any chance it's so light that a dingleberry brush will take care of it? (Probably not...)
     
    69SkylarkGS likes this.
  14. 69SkylarkGS

    69SkylarkGS Well-Known Member

    I was a bit bummed about the rust as well. The rust isn’t too bad but I’m certainly not qualified to make that call as far as boring or honing goes haha.
     
  15. 69SkylarkGS

    69SkylarkGS Well-Known Member

    Why .038 over instead of .030?

    I actually have a blue block I picked up a while back sitting in my garage and I’m wondering if I should just use that with everything else from this motor. The blue block will need to be bored but it’s never been checked out.

    Any recommendations on a cam that will work well with these small valve heads? I know doing the stage 1 valves will be pricey. I’ll probably at least ask about the price of going to the stage 1 valves. I’ve thought about a ta 212 or a ta 284-88h. I’m looking for something mild and easy to tune and more focused on torque. The car has an M21 for now so that 2.20 first gear will need it. Original posi rear with 3.42s in the back.
     
  16. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    .038 over gets you to 4.350 which I believe is a Mopar 440 .030 over, so the rings are cheaper. I would look into the Autotec or Diamond Pistons that JW sells. They will have the better compression distance to get you to 0 deck without a lot of milling.

    You will need to know what your static compression ratio is before picking a cam. If you use a cam like the TA212 with 10:1 or higher, your Dynamic compression will be too high. Best to stick with 9.5:1 for the TA212. For the TA284-88H, you'll want 10:1.
     
  17. 69SkylarkGS

    69SkylarkGS Well-Known Member

    I appreciate you explaining the over bore. I’m more leaning toward the 88h but I may be pushing it running iron heads with 10:1. I was looking at the forged pistons sold by ta but I’ll check those others out to.
     
  18. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Read this article,

    http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html
     
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  19. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I think most the TA stuff ends up way down the hole due to 1.980 compression height, I would get you block going first then get 2.000 or 2.020 to fit your block to 0 deck or. 010 down and get .040 gaskets, for the street you will want the dished pistons.
     
    69SkylarkGS likes this.
  20. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    69SkylarkGS likes this.

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