Buick 350 Heavy Duty Motor Mounts, or limiting strap?i

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by magilla2, Feb 20, 2018.

  1. magilla2

    magilla2 Well-Known Member

    Hey guys,

    What do you use for a good motor mount? Tore my relatively new (1 yr old TAPerformance) one in half on driver side due to torque. (I wheel with an SM 465 at 6.55:1 in granny low, with 2.5:1 transfer case and 4.10 gears... 66:1 gearing, in other words... the trans stick flopped 4” to passenger side on a hill climb, and I just knew...)

    Any help appreciated. New mount and limiting strap, or solid mount?
     
  2. Julian

    Julian Well-Known Member

    Strap
     
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  3. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Mine has a chain but I’m switching to a mid plate mount and fabbing up front plates too. For your purposes I would use a Thick strap.
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    I use a strap at the back of the motor and tie to frame. There was a article somewhere maybe in the GS Extra magazine or here where you have the motor mount welded with a piece of steel on the outer side of the mount. You are welding the top to the bottom. I am sure you may get more vibration out of this but so do the rocks on the hills, lol.

    I bet Larry knows what I am talking about probably has the article some where.
     
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  5. Buick#455

    Buick#455 Well-Known Member

    Sean, what is your chain attached to? Looks like the head & I presume the frame.
     
  6. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Yes frame and head bolt... it’s not nearly enough though, updating this right now
     
  7. tsm3089

    tsm3089 Well-Known Member

    hr parts and stuff poly mounts for the v6 work great.
     
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  8. magilla2

    magilla2 Well-Known Member

    Ooooh, I’ll have to look at the poly mounts. I also ordered a C4010 engine torque strap for a Ford that uses two rod ends with a turnbuckle, with a tab for the power steering bracket and a bracket welded to frame.

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    Last edited: Feb 20, 2018
  9. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    I used to drill two 1/4" holes staggard, thru mount and use crimped lock nuts tightened just snug so motor mount is still cushioned but can't torque up or apart anymore. Quick fix.
    Plus you won't see an ugly chain.
     
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  10. magilla2

    magilla2 Well-Known Member

    I ordered the HRParts'n'stuff heavy duty 3.8 liter driver’s side poly mount guaranteed not to rip apart... since I had to replace the mount anyway. $129 isn’t a bad price. Would have been close to $100 for the above tension strap and a new mount, and no welding required (it’s a tight fit, and the time to take stuff out, clean the metal, and weld the bracket in would easily make up the difference in cost). Thanks for the heads-up, tsm3089!

    Here’s the website ad: Our new mounts are MUCH stronger than stock, and are designed to handle 1400 HP+ while transferring power quicker, without any of the problems associated with solid mounts. There are NO negative effects to the block or knock sensor from using our Poly mounts. They actually reduce the negative effects from using solid type mounts. They include the highest quality polyurethane bushings from a well known manufacturer that have been modified to be used with our design. They are soft enough to allow a slight amount of movement which reduces bind/stress, and also stiff enough to keep the engine where it is designed to be under full power. There is also added clearance over the stock mounts for after market oiling systems, and they should NOT need any additional modifications.

    Got them from RJC Racing.

    <http://rjcracing.com/product/motor-mounts/>

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    Last edited: Feb 21, 2018
  11. jay3000

    jay3000 RIP 1-16-21

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