Probably a good thing the windows were left open, kept the air moving a little. Otherwise, the interior would have been less mildew and more mold.
Taking bets on whether or not she starts tomorrow. Really wanna/need to get that door opened. Ideas? Im too old to climb through the window and doubt I could make it over the console either LOL. Yeah Bill, the interior actually looks like a time capsule. Sandy (70 y.o.) had a couple of kids that were crack heads and destroyed/stole everything in their paths. "Kids" are 50 ish. JHC, thats what this world is becoming!(?). This guy was in another section of the garage that was walled off and already filled to the brim with junk and an overhead door with a busted spring. Too much effort to get over there and destroy anything more. I agree that I am not looking for a money pit! An old hot rod pal came up here yesterday from Dwight , Il. and said the hot ticket down there is add a spoiler and paint it hot rod black with a clear coat and kids eat them up. Its nice enough that I "think" it deserves better than that, but thats another bridge. Yesterday I popped the radiator cap and it was full to the top with bright green juice and 1/2 quart low on a 1,000 mile oil change. As mentioned, just turning the key started the fuel pump, lit up the dash, and ran the primary cooling fan. To me thats all kind of "promising". I am concerned that the intercooler just below the hood was packed solid with mouse nesting; Im guessing that should get vacuumed out? I hate to use air and plug it all together. The air intake was clean as a whistle. I really need to get hat driver side door apart to open. I had a hold of the flush lock knob with needle nose pliers and ended up stripping the knob off and the threaded stub shaft has now dropped below the panel edge but is retrievable. The electric side of it doesn't even click and the key in the lock wiggles it but wont unlock it. Itll pull the knob down to lock, but not up to open. I only have one set of keys so forcing that is out. The car also has an unknown combination lock pad above the handle, so I am guessing that panel needs to come off. Any hints are good and Im also off to google it. Once inside, I can step on the clutch pedal for a start up. Pipe up with ideas guys! After all, its only a DORF LOL! ws
Sounds like you're either going to have to pull the panel or get a tow truck driver with the necessary slim jim skills to get that lock up. Probably the latch assembly is all goo'd and sticky. If you can find access, spray a copious amount of wd40 at it, into the lock cylinder, let it all soak and try again. If you need to pull the panel, should just be about 6 Philly heads and then the door clips are the straight in Christmas tree type, nothing fancy. If the panel is like a same year mustang, it's just cheesy cardboard backing and the pins will just rip out of it and the only thing really holding it on will be those screws after that. It'll fire right up I'm betting.....if you want, get a hood prop and hold the clutch pedal by wedging it between the seat and pedal. Then you can give it a try from the passenger side....looking like a good project. Little touch up paint, couple headlights, a buff and wax and that outside will be sparkling!
Thanks Pal!! Did my due dilligence this morning and it looks pretty simple... famous last words. ha! watch this... Its a DOC so you may need to figger out how to open it... Sandy said her husband always had problems with it and never locked, also had to climb across to open the handle. Personally, I dont think the guy was that sharp. Once open, its gonna be a cake walk. Re: cheating on the pedal; Just my luck she'll light off and be stuck in gear. Does that guy have a conventional shifter or is it in the top cover? ws https://www.google.com/search?ei=1B..........0j0i71j0i22i30j33i22i29i30.A3JXLAGsrF8
The shifter goes straight into the top of transmission. If it's flopping around feeling like it's in neutral, it's in neutral. Go for it.....you could jack the rear wheels up if you're nervous, too......trans is a borg-warner t5 by the way. Same as 5.0s, camaros, and firebirds of the day. Super easy to dink and dorf with (see what I did there?) Guy can rebuild one in an hour on his bench. Those first two videos that come up in your link are for the next bodystyle, just so you know, so don't follow those. Totally different cars.
"Those seeking advice should either heed or ignore it." Ben Franklin Luke was absolutely correct in the body style differences. The vids' from yesterday were NOTHING like what I encountered. Got the battery installed and got both windows up first (to be sure of weather proofing) then down to attack the stuck door lock. It got to the point that I had to remove the passenger side (PS) panel to figure out how the DS came apart. True to form, there was about twenty screws (5 were good and hidden of course!) and one was right up against the dash board so that had to wait. The power seat functions (drive stuff is really dry like everything here) but moved it enough to see with a mirror that half the screws were already missing. The panel is held in position with the GM style Christmas tree style nylon push pins. The baby wonder bar made short work of them and with the seat all the way forward could open the back half of the panel to get to the door latch. It was frozen solid in the locked position and the solenoid is DOA. Put the PS switch in its place and the passenger door locks both ways. Hmmm A bad solenoid on the DS and a bad switch to boot. The linkage was so rusty that the PO had bent stuff inside the door (lock linkage and outside handle stuff), so the attack was from the top with a LA (longa$$) screwdriver. My neighbor who flips beaters happens to show up and is pretty determined to figger it out. Within a minute, BAMM! The door was open. Dang dorfs! Juiced it up with PB Blaster and it opens easily from the inside handle at least. Looks like a call to rockauto. I'll tell 'em Larry sent me LOL. So I finally get to sit in the mildew compartment on a sheet to get a feel for whats going on. It does in fact have 130K on the clock. Just goofing around I wanted to see if the engine was stuck, so I stomped on the 3rd pedal and turned the key, expecting a cloud of smoke from under the hood or dash. NADA! Making contact with the start position produced LESS than a tick sound and that bastard was running! I mean like 1/32 of an engine turn. The car has sat since 2005. I was impressed. Gas gage was on "E" with a low fuel light. so rather than go any further I shut it down. Too bad this aint a 1970 455 GSX loaded out eh? So now for some free advice: Theres a few issues that need to be addressed. Put 4-1/2 gallons of premium in it from a can. 91 octane and E-FREE. Let it run for a half hour and found a few things wrong. A. No gas gage and low fuel light is ON continuously. B. EVERYTHING WORKS! Unbelievable! C. Check engine light is on. D. Clutch, shifter and brakes work. Moved it back and forth a few feet. Of course REVERSE is in the WRONG position Hahaha. E. AC works but cycles from low freon level. F. AC cooling fan runs when cycling but NO service fan. Temp gage didnt show hot but it was getting up there on the hand and pressure test. Ran on FULL DEFROST to help cool it down. G. Had a hard time restarting with fresh gas. The old stuff stank to high heaven! Added a can of chemtrol B-2 and fresh gas and still struggled. 3 drops of ether and she was off to the races! ON TWO BANGERS! Then 3 and finally 4. Smoothed out and ran like it was supposed to LOL. H. Radio and power antenna, power Moon Roof, windows, seats, power trunk and power gas door all work. I. No runs, no leaks, no errors except ONE. 1. Gas tank with 4 gallons of gas leaks. There was a gallon maybe in there for that first start, but added 4 more and she makes wee wee. Theres a skid plate/explosion shield covering the tank bottom and one outa 4 drains is dripping. probably not pump related, It leaked all night to what ever level. I havent checked it this morning yet. EXSPURTS?? Heres a bunch-o-pics and 2 vids. Please let me know whatcha think OK? ws
You're shooting yourself in the foot by not draining the fuel tank first....WHy on earth....I wouldn't run 6 month old crap thru any of my cars.Anyway huge following with these T-Birds, easily get $3500 with min effort. And BTW, probably pissing because its now over-full, and its common for these gages to not work after 20 tears, easy change-out.
As heavy as all the trash is from phase separation, Im pretty sure it was all at the very bottom of the tank. There was no leakage when first started, so I put in 4 gallons of fresh stuff yesterday. By 7 pm last night there was 2 quarts of gas in the 7 quart pan. That got dumped into the cold burn barrel. This morning there was about 8 quarts lost (7 retrieved and one from spillage) and the trash was pretty evident in the retrieved fuel. See pics. I think the next step is a pump and sender and a good power wash job on the tank before a repair takes place. Might replace the tank with a new plastic one if available. The pics show the opacity of the gas with a white water bottle cap in the residue. ws
Looks like I hafta do some comparison shopping today. Rockheadauto has a new tank, pump and mounting kit for $180.00 plus the BBT (big brown truck for another $30.00). Soooo. is there a logical firing order to dropping this tank or is it cum si, cum sa ? (thats Latin you pervs!) There appears to be 3 big holes in the new one; one to fill, one for the pump and a third for, anyone's guess? ws https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6321882&cc=1430182&jsn=599
3rd hole is probably a vent. Should be straight forward, but you'll need a fuel line disconnect tool. I like the little scissor type with a pivot in the middle. I'll post a pic when I get up and rolling.
I know the disconnects on the 2000 silverado were delicate and a dealer only item. Am I gonna need a floor jack under this thing? Hose clamp on the fill hose or attached to the filler door? Too many questions and all help appreciated! Today Im putting the PS door panel back together and gonna move the car to the back shop (outside tho!) for the tank job. Model T valve job is next weekend; been promising hat for 2 years. Can ya recommend a good service book? Cant seem to find a real one! What about a Turbo coupe forum (I feel like a turncoat but need some specific info!). Tanks for the memories LOL... ws
You'll want a jack under it unless you want to bench press 100-200 lbs. of tank and shlossing fuel. Dunno on the fuel neck, should just be a worm clamp I'd think. These are the fuel line pliers I use, they're the cheapest style but work the best (how often is that the case?) About $5 at any auto parts store. Just get the Lisle brand or whatever.....
Thanks Luke... I knew I could count on ya! That rockheadauto pic actually show 4 holes; Im guessing the side hole is the filler? We'll learn about this one together I'm sure. That way when we make out trade (??LOL) for my 442 or BBC Chevelle you already be wayyyy ahead. Thanks man... ws
Picked up the fuel line tool at crackauto for $5.00 ... 5/16 and 3/8 fuel line size. Nobody wants to match rockhead auto so its off to the races with them PLUS the BBT (big brown truck)! Sterilized the trunk (power washed all the rug panels with bleach water and DAWN, then vacuumed dry) and passenger cabin side and installed the door panel. Trunk still stinks like mouse piss, so it got a doosh with Lysol, Fabreeze, and closed up tight to permeate. Everything is a go for launch. I did start it again and moved it 30 feet to garage "B". I give up for today. Boat gets pulled out next week and blocked... more fun! ws
I'm still not sold on that type of connection. The fuel filter on the Ford pickup I had required that tool. I broke one of the tools trying to remove it. Tried another to no avail. I cut the whole damned thing out and replaced it with a filter that took regular clamps.
Thats where I was at with my 2000 silverado. Along the frame rail for 100,00 miles? Shoot! I work by the hour! ws
Oh, yeah, it's a terrible design, and I mean that sincerely. They get filled full of corrosion and dirt a lot of times, and it's a PITA to clean out and sometimes you just can't.....That tool I've got in my hand is 23 years old and has done probably a legit 1,000 connections (Polaris went to those types of connections on their fuel injected snowmobiles, ATVs, etc. around 2005, too). I've had to cut a few lines, too, when there's no other options. Bill, the trick is to spray brake clean and compressed air down into the connection to blow out debris. There's a little four to six pronged retainer in there, and the prongs hold against the lip on the pump connection line. That the tool folds the spring loaded tangs in, then you pull the line off. Put the tool into the line, shove the line into the tool (farther onto the pump, I know that's counter-intuitive) and then slide the line and tool off the pump together. Sometimes rotating the tool back and forth helps, too.
Ordered the tank, filter, and 2 belts from rockhead. Wish me well.... Im goin' in! ws Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total 1988 FORD THUNDERBIRD 2.3L 140cid L4 Turbocharged DAYCO 5060615DR Belt $ 10.80 $ 0.00 1 $ 10.80 GATES K050330 Belt $ 10.45 $ 0.00 1 $ 10.45 MOTORCRAFT FG1060 Fuel Filter $ 10.26 $ 0.00 1 $ 10.26 SPECTRA PREMIUM KIT0157 Fuel Tank & Pump Assembly $ 176.99 - 1 $ 176.99 SPECTRA PREMIUM F23B [Kit Component] Fuel Tank $ 84.46 $ 0.00 1 - SPECTRA PREMIUM ST87 [Kit Component] Fuel Tank Strap $ 13.29 $ 0.00 1 - SPECTRA PREMIUM ST88 [Kit Component] Fuel Tank Strap $ 13.28 $ 0.00 1 - SPECTRA PREMIUM SP2124H [Kit Component] Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly $ 65.96 $ 0.00 1 - Shipping Ground, First Class Mail $ 33.97 Tax $ 12.12 Order Total $ 254.59 MasterCard -$ 254.59 Balance Due $ 0.00
I had a couple T-birds in the 80's, they were pretty comfortable cruisers, too. When I drive around, I often wonder where they all went! It's kind of like real birds, you know they die, but you rarely see dead birds. I can't be much help other than to say what Luke was saying about the clips. I first came upon those on my Mustang. I had to drop the tank and change the pump and filter. The tool Luke pictured, is the tool I used. I also tried the other type(s) that are like ring shaped, and the ones that are like clothespins. The tool Luke showed did the best job, but...yeah...they are tough! Sometimes you got to turn the tool back an forth, sometimes you have to push in. Some came easy, some I wrestled with for 10 minutes. what I found helpful was turning the fitting a bit if possible back + forth before disconnecting. Like at the filter, you can turn the filter. That tool Luke showed...there are good (USA like KD) and bad (like HF) ones. The bad ones don't fit well, but will work with greater effort, sometimes. Sometimes the cheap ones don't fit perfectly. There's a knack to it. Look at the videos on youtube....
Hey Frank... yeah the crackauto tool will probably bust and then Ill hafta return it and buy some HP hose and clamps. Ive just finish a worldwide search for even chinaman headlight buckets and NADA I thought for sure those street racing knuckleheads would have a source. 20 pages of google and Im blurrry eyed... worse than those lenses LOL... Guess I hafta try some 2000 paper and a clearcoat; hope its all external. ws
