What's your static and dynamic compression. It sounds like there is some OK parts in the motor and some work done. I don't mind driving big narly stuff on the road. Yours is stick so no need to worry about stall speeds, you don't have power brakes, as long as you have enough compression I would run it. Will be a strong runner to mid 6000 rpm. I'm hoping whoever did the head work know what cam was being used and made sure there was enough clearance between the retainers and guides for that much lift, and hopefully that put a better set of springs on there too......if not TAS stage 1 plus spring will handle this job nicely
Well I have had pistons for 15 years or longer and from memory I think 9:1 maybe 10:1 as gas was goin down the tube and I have stock stage 1 springs on the heads now. How can I check clearence of retainers to guids to make sure I think I have no wiggle KB retainers in a box somplace just finding them after 20 years and 2 moves I also want to be able to run on the freeway for long periods and miles and not beat things up its not like I dont have another cam choice to use the lunati is a 112- 248 on bottom says k96u its more like a MK 113 or 118 I think
They make a special tool for checking all the valve stuff.........but you can get some "checking springs" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4758-2 They are just very low tension springs, use a dail indicator, or dail calipers to measure how far the top of your retainer is from any spot on the head or better yet the valve pocket.......then compress the valve till it stops, measure again from the same spot on the head, this will give you total available lift, subtract your cam lift figured with the correct rocker arm ratio and that's your clearance. If I recall some where in the .525-.550 area you start to get issues. Keep in mind you want to keep some cushion in there to as some parts expands. At least .050. So if your cam lifts .550 you would want .600 in movement. You can gain clearance by having the guides turned down, they can be cut for the newer .500 seals at the same time, you can gain some by having the bottom cone of the retainer cut away. Im almost sure your stk stage 1 springs won't work with that cam, I bet they are in or very close to coil bind and might not have enough open pressure to work correctly. I have used TA's stage 1 plus spring on a cam running a tick over .575 spinning to 6500 rpms with no issues. They are plug and play. No valve pocket modification needed to fit, should fit stk retainers.....but I would up grade them and the locks too. Springs are like 100 bucks just set the proper install heights and pressures and all should good if you have the clearance in the guides
I did intake lifter and ended up with 110 so that would be the lobe center if I did it correct just need to do exhaust thats with crank gear at the -4 on the key and 0 lined up with cam dot
You have a cam card? Is it a MK3 or MK3H? Whichever one you have it is retarded if you are saying the 110* is the intake lobe center. The MK3 cam is ground 0n a 105* LSA and is ground with 5* advance. Therefore the 240* intake of the MK3 should be at 100*. If it is the 3H then the 252* intake should be a 106* LSA and should be at 101* LSA for 5* advance. Believe me you need that cam at the advanced number. I'd try the lower gear at the +6* spot and see what you get.
LSA is lobe separation angle. That's ground into the cam and can't be changed. Its the difference between intake center line and exhaust center line. No amount of degreeing in a cam can physically change this. When you degree you cam you are checking or changing the actual location of where the valve starts to open and close and in turn effecting the lobe centerline in relation to the crank. Most ppl just check the intake centerline and set it way and call it good. But it wise to check all the events......IO,IC,EO,EC and also intake and exhaust centerlines. This let's you know all aspects of the cam were ground correctly at least for that cylinder. I like to also check #6 for all the same. It is possible for the location of lifers to effect these readings cause the angle they sit hits the lobe differently. I check both sides and then figure out my average. It is possible for example you want an intake centerline of 108.....so you check #1 and say you find 105 so you think you need to retard it a few degrees to try to get as close to 108 as possable......but #6 might be sitting at 111. So by the time you retard 2* to #1 back towards 108 you actally could be making the other side of the motor even farther off towards 113. I know this makes the water even muddier
When you move the crank gear to any other spot besides 0 you won't use the 0 reference on the crank gear again. If you have the crank gear on -4 slot you need to be lining the dot on the cam gear up with crank gear gear tooth that is actually 4 teeth to the right of 0 mark. So take you some white out or nail polish and paint that tooth and then line that painted tooth up with the dot on the cam gear. If you were to have the crank gear on the +4 slot, you would then count 4 teeth to the left of the 0 mark. And when moving this sometimes you no longer get the dot on the cam to be percale at 6 and the crank tooth the be at 12, sometimes they are slightly past that true vertical line we all picture in our minds
This is the info I have for the MK3: @.050" 240*I/248*E IO 20* BTDC/IC 40* ABDC/100* ICL EO 54*BBDC/EC 14* ATDC/110* ECL 105 LSA .324"I/.327"E lobe lift The cam is ground with 5* advance. I'd check intake open/close points on lobe one to see if you are close to that number to at least confirm you are in the area and exactly what version cam you have. Those numbers are from long ago and KB(as TA does today) had been know to make small changes to the cam and was indicated on the specific cam card. The MK3H was 252* I/E duration. This is the closest TA has to the MK3. Notice they recommend 10:1 at least and with most of their cams that is pretty much the low end of acceptable. With that cam more would be better. http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_296-08H My MK3H ran very strong to 6500 but I rarely took it there. I usually shifted at 6000 and I had 12:1 compression so there was no weakness from lack of cylinder pressure. Hopefully you have a carb other than a Q-Jet because it is not going to like to idle that well with that cam without some work although the stick shift will help tremendously. I had a Switch-Pitch 2000/3000 converter with 4.10's so that helped. I drove it all over the place so it is streetable no doubt including many highway miles but back then the speed limit was 55 so it was easier to keep up with traffic with those gears. If you have the valve notches in the pistons and springs to support it you can always try it. By serious I meant the compression should be up there for best results. Not enough compression and that cam will bleed your cylinder pressure down for poor low rpm performance. The C113 will idle like a stocker compared to this cam with all the overlap. Mean idle though. To get full advantage for this cam you really need to shift near 6000 rpm. Make sure your oiling system is up to it.
I think 10:1 compression and yes notched pistons oil mods to block done and rear bypass line installed some light head work done hardened seats and Intake smoothed a bit and have a thermoquad worked out to 1100 cfm stinger S-4 will lite it up and 3:64 posi rear end
Im useing the comp cams degree wheel with 2 sets of numbers do you use top set only I have not degreed in 15 years but dont want to set it wrong
Look at your directions, but 1 set of numbers will be used for measuring the actual events, IO, IC, EO,EC. The other set will be for doing centerlines. The second set numbers just makes it easier so you don't have to do the calculations
I came up with Int @ 050 27 open ramp Close ramp @ 050 was 51 + 180 =243 243รท2=121-12.5=109.25 how close is this ?
Based on the specs you posted on your earlier post, IO of 20, IC of 40 with a 100 ICL, you are 8 maybe 10 degrees retarded. 7 by the IO 11 by the IC 9 by the ICL. If you want it in how the cam card says I would advance it 8 degrees and remeasure. See where you come up if not more right in the middle
I should of also said crank gear is set ay -4 key and crank tooth lined up with cam dot So you think advance to the +4 side of crank gear ? Thank you much
If you have the corresponding tooth for the -4 slot on crank gear lined up with the cam dot, then yes try again at the +4 slot and it's corresponding tooth. This should get you close to the cam card. Which is what I would expect. The 9 way set is based so dot to dot is a true 0 degrees. The factory sets had 4 degrees advanced built in. A lot of cams are based on the factory sets so a lot of them have 4 degrees advance built in based on a stk gear set. So when we go to a 9 way setup most ppl have to go to the +4 area to get near the cam card
Thank you I will try this later today and see what I come up with I was goin off catalog specs and says 110 so if I can hit between 105 and 110 I would be happy
Does this mean that the TA performance single roller "stock replacement" also has 4* advance in the gear set or is it a true 0? I have a cam with 3* advance already so I don't necessarily want 7* total.
Never used the single set. If your cam has 3 built in I would assume that is with the stk gears which had the 4 in them. But this is why it's so important to actually measure and not assume who did what with which pieces
