Camshaft and gears

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by 41speciman, Aug 22, 2018.

  1. 41speciman

    41speciman Well-Known Member

    Lunati is 112 lobe center 248 duration just dont know the lift on I or E
     
  2. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    What does lift have to do with anything? So is that 248* on the intake or is that the exhaust? If it is the exhaust that cam may actually be "bigger" then the Mk3 if it has more intake duration. I said it in other threads and I'll say it again if you can't degree the cam don't use a billet timing set. Get a stock timing set, install it as-is, and figure it will probably be in the ballpark. Done. We did it way back when and it mostly worked well and at least one of your cam choices is from way back when.
     
  3. 41speciman

    41speciman Well-Known Member

    I was looking through my vast collection of stuff and found some nice pistons out of another block they say K B on top very small dish more flat top also valve relief . The new pistons are same as stock dish with notched for valves I could have those matched balanced and gain some compression and last cam I degreed in was 15-18 yrs ago
     
  4. 41speciman

    41speciman Well-Known Member

    Ok again I have tried to follow how this is done +6 on crank
    @050 Io 33
    Max lift 333
    @050 IC 40
    +2 on crank
    @050 IO 27
    Max lift 332
    @050IC 44
    Unless my dial indicators are so wacked thats my problem
     
  5. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    The difference between a MK 3 and 3H is noticeable when degreeing it in. The 3H has a good bit more duration on the intake. Now you're getting somewhere at the +2*position. 27+44+180=251* so you're right there. Lift is right there also. Generally speaking you're @+7* advance compared to the specs at +5* but at your altitude and fairly low compression that will be a big help. Now, just move the dial indicator and lifter to the exhaust lobe and take those measurements. That will really finish telling you where the cam is at. If it is close then I'd say it is set.

    MK3H specs:
    252* I/E @.050", 106* LSA
    .339" I/E lobe lift
    25* BTDC IO, 47* ABDC IC, 101* ILC
    57* BBDC EO, 15* ATDC EC, 111* ELC
    +5* advance, 40* OL

    Sorry for the late response.
     
  6. 41speciman

    41speciman Well-Known Member

    Thank you no worries on how fast response I also did take it apart and had it decked 020 after I check exhaust should I use steel head gasket or I have felpro blue that came with gasket set probably 040 Does the intake need work also its a old B4B if so how much to take off and pushrods stock kenne bell 3/8 length but have some adjustment in rockers setting them will be next in the book thank you for the help Jeff
     
  7. 41speciman

    41speciman Well-Known Member

    Ok
    EO @050 55
    Max lift 334
    EC @050 13
    So off 2 should that be ok ?
     
  8. 41speciman

    41speciman Well-Known Member

  9. 41speciman

    41speciman Well-Known Member

    These are the head gaskets I have instock
     
  10. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    So what you have is:
    27 IO/44 IC
    55 EO/13 EC
    251*I/98.5* ILC
    248*E/111 ELC
    104.8* LSA, +6.3* ADV, 40* OL

    A little shy on the exhaust duration compared to the sheet but everything is in the ballpark so I'd say you're looking pretty good. The lift looks good and the little bit of extra advance won't hurt anything.

    If the pistons are right around .020" below the deck at all 4 corners I'd use the steel shim gaskets with Copper Coat assuming the heads/block are 1972 and earlier because they have round water passages. If you're under .020" the FelPros are probably the way to go for correct .040" at a minimum piston top to head bottom clearance.

    I usually had the intake side of my heads shaved the same amount I had the head surface shaved. If you had both the heads and block shaved and with the thinner steel head gasket something will have to come off. It probably will be the easiest to take some from the intake sides. Bolt up the heads and then make a determination to see if you can get the bolts in and go from there. Forget the rubber seals on each end of the intake and just use a thick bead of Permatex across the China wall after you've had the intake shaved.

    What do you mean you have some adjustment in rockers setting them? Anyway you look at it to allow maximum rpm with that cam you only need about .030" of preload so either adjustable pushrods or rocker arms are necessary. Double valve springs are necessary too. Something to also consider is a set of Rhoades lifters if you don't have a new set already and probably even if you do. That's what I ran when I ran that cam way back.
     
  11. 41speciman

    41speciman Well-Known Member

    Yes Kenne Bell roller rockers rohds lifters set preload from zero lash 1/2 turn and locked them in pleanty of valve to piston clearence so should be ready to lite it up soon
     
  12. MN GS455

    MN GS455 Well-Known Member

    Here is the newest Avon Pro Gear timing set that I’ve been using/stocking. Three keyway. I’m not fond of 9 keyway for any application.

    Uses a single true roller chain much like the B.B. Chev Marine engines. Looks awesome, like their other products,
     

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