Hey, thought i might share my stupidity with you. a year or so ago i was setting the timing on my lada 1300sl, did it purely by feel(which i absolutely didn't have). it felt right with only the idle being a little higher than before. once i got a dial back timing light for my buick, i also reset the lada's timing. I cr*ped my pants when i found out what it had been. 60* initial(factory spec. 15.6*):spank: :spank::spank:. it ran ok, but didn't have the power to get off the line.(and accelerate...). i wonder how it didn't blow up, it didn't even ping :laugh: What i'm trying to say is that maybe you should recheck timing as larry suggested. I hope i could be helpful, if not, maybe atleast i gave you something to laugh about p inar
Thanks for the info. Everything is being rechecked (timing), rebuilt (carb) or reset (tranny linkage) at the moment. After using my dial back timing light I found my initial timing was set at around 30.
Carb update: OK so I had my mechanic follow Cliffs book to the tee and heres some of what was addressed. Main air bleeds in bowl Upper bleeds Air bleed adjusters Base plate checked for full opening. The above is not inclusive but I was told everything was adjusted, replaced or modified as per Cliffs recommendations in his book. The changes initially resulted in a good idle, good rpm and no shut down when put in gear. However, as in the past, after the car runs for a while and is restarted or if its shut down over night everything goes back to crap. Im at a loss for whats going on at this point. Everything on this cars motor has been replaced with OEM or better parts and has been re checked for possible issues. The carb itself has been checked and taken apart too many times to count and nothing has been found that should or would cause the problem I am explaining. Any ideas?? Im about to return the carb to the rebuilder and buy a Holley from Summit due to my frustration but do not wish to through good money after bad! Cliff, PM sent.
I just glanced over most of these posts but I have a question. Are you running your vacuum advance on a ported or fulltime supply? I had a similar cam in an old 350, It was an Kenne Bell Mark2c regrind 224/235 at .050 on 110* and even though the idle needed to be higher than the factory 650 to run right, Idled at around 800/900, I never had the issues you've had. You're a little to far away to just toss you one of my carbs to try but it sounds to me as if you have more than just a simple carb problem. Specially if it changes overnight and you say the timing marks can't be read. Are you sure your timing gears and chain were installed correctly? My 350 really woke up when I got the initial timing to 18 to 20 degrees with only 14 in the distributor with a total of 32 to 34. Most close to stock 350's love a Buick 750 cfm QJ but mine loved an 800. I even have around here somewhere all my notes as to which Jets, Idle feed restrictions, Metering rods(primary and secondary), Power piston springs(that's a huge issue when changing cams), and so on. I wish I had had Cliffs( a number one publication) book back in the day because we used to have to figure this stuff out on our own. Don't give up on your motor but you may want to reconsider who's been helping you tune it. I'm just saying:eek2: Here's a video of a buddys l'il 350 with a similar cam(Poston GS118) that I built the motor, Dist, Trans and carb for over 12 years ago. http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10151191424052479
I was kinda joking...Kinda. ''Put a Q-jet on it'' is the go-to silver-bullet answer for every question around here, even when the carb isnt the problem. Its funny that even when someone is sinking goofy amounts of time and money into a Q-jet without results, Q-jet people act like thats still a good idea. I can buy a bran-spankin-new Holley. Not a re-pair, re-man, re-furb, re-built, ,re-stored... A NEW HOLLEY. Thats why Im a Holley man, if at some point my old Holley is beyond fixing for any reason, I can buy a new one and start over. A Q-jet is a 30+ year-old can of worms 90% of the timeou: But the Q-jet faithfull point out the good 10% and pretend the other 90% dont exist.ray:
I honestly believe that Steve's performance problems run beyond carburetion. I tried to help, but somehow offended him, which wasn't my intention. Haven't heard from him in awhile.
I agree. I would borrow a ''good'' Q-jet just to see if it changes anything. Even if the borrowed carb isnt perfect for the car, it would tell me if the carb is the one causing the problems. Also, I know its a silly question, but has anyone thought of the sealant failing on the bottom of the carb? Its a common problem on Q-jets and thats what some of his ''ran good till the next day'' problems sound like. I figure the carb builder addressed this, but the first thing I learned about being a mechanic is dont assume anything:Smarty:
Who knows? The last i read, it was a remanufactured carburetor. They are the absolute worst. Remanufacturers disassemble carbs and throw the parts in piles. Then they assemble carburetors from the pile and give them generic jetting. Cliff R won't even touch one of them as they are more trouble than they are worth. If the main wells were sealed with JB Weld, the E10 will rot that after awhile. Too many unknowns.
I bought a rebuilt Q-jet for my 72 GS a while back from National Carburetor and it was a TURD.. I sent it back and they had it for a while and then sent the TURD back.. I have the TURD in a box in the basement.. Bought a q-jet off of e-bay and it runs a perfect as you could ever ask..
I do this for a living, and don't spend any time at all pissing with commercially "remanufactured" q-jets. We don't allow them in the shop, they are ALWAYS a mess. If working with a good unit, it only takes minutes to dial it in for the application. As for the Holley comments, we avoid the "low" end stuff. They are basically junk, piss-poor castings, metering block issues, plastic parts, and seldom if ever dead on in all areas for the application they are used on. Not to mention they don't bolt to stock intakes well, and like all those units, guzzle more fuel than one can afford to buy. Still cool to put the sticker in your window, like we did back in high school, and burn everyones eyes who stood behind your car in the parking lot after a football game......Cliff
Larry. I was Offended BY Him. I bought a QJ from him last Dec. It must have been his junk One. I tried to get my money back, Silence. Now I see He's trying to buy another Carb with the Hundred I sent him. PONCH
Sorry to hear that Ponch. I'd forget about it if you can. Chalk it up to experience. Live and learn. I think the overwhelming majority of members on this site are honest. I couldn't sleep if I did something like that. I'd rather refund someone's money if they are not happy. Keep your head up.
Guys let's back it up a little... Eagleguy I remember us talking about you getting the compression close as possible to the needed 9.5 by using the thinnest head gaskets possible. is it possible that by not having the compression up to spec will give the same idle problem being spoken about?
No, I think it is more likely a timing, vacuum leak issue, cam timing, or the carburetor was a re manufactured "Frankenstein". Lower compression/cam combo might make the engine under perform if anything
That's OK. Lets not be concerned about the guy who ripped Me off, And dont be concerened about my decompressed Wallet. Thank's for Your concern. But as you say Larry, I'll just forget it and I can sleep well Knowing I didn't rip anyone off. Also I know that SOMEBODY on the Thead cares. I still have his address and am gonna send it back. But maybe I should just throw it out so it wont get sold again. I'd hate to see someone else get de-compressed and Dare to stray from the original intent of A Post. Sorry I strayed. If it happens again I wont say anything so this kind of thing runs rampant on The Board. My Apologies. PONCH
