Hey guys, curious as to what kind of chassis paint you would suggest. I've heard decent stuff about the eastwood stuff, but just want to get some other opinions. The issue is the frame won't be down to bare metal, it will only be sanded in trouble areas and roughed up. Anyone have anything particular I should look into? Or another step I should add in to make it more effective? Thanks.
I used the Eastwood improved Chassis black with their primer as well and was pleased with the results. I did my A arms only so far and they look new.
I bought the Extreme Chassis Black (I think that's what Dave bought). Haven't used it yet, but there are a ton of parts sitting in the back of my wagon ready for blasting when funds permit. I have heard many good things about it.
So you have it down to the frame and all that work putting it back together, yet your not going to blast it?o No: I'd blast it, acid wash, Eastwoods rust encaplator, Eastwood chassis black. It will then outlast you:kodak: It's your project, but only a couple hundred more to do it right:bglasses: Just my 2 cents.
SO true! My frame is in very good condition. I tried hitting it with wire wheels on an angle grinder and air grinder. LOTs of work. Good results - but SOOO slow and messy! For a couple hundred bucks it will be blasted clean in a few hours - then smooth as a baby's butt!
When I did my restoration, I believe the frame work ( from underneath the car) was the toughest job. That was 7 years ago, and it still looks new. I started using Eastwood products, but switched to POR-15. I am glad I did! I pressure washed the frame, making sure all the grease and loose dirt/rust was removed, and then left the slight surface rust needed by the POR-15 to bond to the metal. And did it... For a top coat I used Rustoleum Satin Black and to this day it looks like I just finished the job... Hope this helps... Russell 1970 Skylark Convertible 455 :3gears:
Thanks guys, just to clarify the car is not down to the frame. I'm pretty much looking for something I can apply from under the car. From what Russel said the POR 15 sounds about right. This is pretty much intended to be a band aid like fix for the undercarriage that won't look like total crap. My living status has changed and the Skylark is now spending the summer months out of doors. I'm breaking the piggy bank this fall to put it away somewhere for the winter months at least but this means no work is gonna get done this winter, and I have no place during the summer to do much. Working only in a driveway that several other people use is a PITA. Back on topic however, due to its recent exposure surface rust is already starting on the undercarriage :rant: Not that I can really expect much more its just frustrating. Thanks for the advice guys.
Andrew, If you plan to use the POR laying on your back and paint it on with a brush be prepared to be wearing it on your arms like a tattoo for a long time. Been there. If you are married or have girlfriend she will yell at you and be embarassed to go out with you. Been there.
Duly noted. Long sleeves it is. Maybe I can at least minimize the damage. The sweat and heat are worth the lack of nagging later. :Smarty: Thanks for the tip, getting really dirty with that stuff which probably sticks like glue never crossed my mind. ou: Oh, and if you don't mind me asking where in MA are you from?
Andrew, I did not do a frame-off on my '66 GS, and had no plans for Pebble Beach, so I just scraped off the loose stuff and coated everything I could reach with a brush with Rustoleum satin black. I had all the drive train, suspension, gas tank, exhaust, etc. out, so I got it covered pretty well. It's only been 2 years, so I can't tell how long it will last. It looks pretty good to me.
Hm. This seems like a cheap alternative. I might seriously consider this for now and save the serious chassis coating for when I have a garage again and can actually take stuff apart. Thanks for the advice.
I am convinced the POR-15 stands for "Paint Over Rust"-15 days to remove from your hands and arms...Long sleeves and vinyl gloves are a must, and get a pack of cheap, throw away paint brushes to use... This product used as a base coat with Rustoleum as a top coat has my frame looking great 7 years later. There is no peeling or rust at all. Using just the Rustoleum may need touch up every year or so, unless you try their "Hammer-Tight" spray that is a great product as well... Russell :beers2:
That's really good. It will be nice not having to re do it right away. From what I hear there are a few good options its pretty much down to price now.
i am using kbs rust coatings basically same as por a little cheaper and has better uv protection ill post up pics when i get home
If you want to top coat the POR do it while it is still tacky. Read the directions. If it dries you will be roughing it up with sand paper which is not easy... - Bill
My first experience with POR15 was painting the inside of some truck tool boxes. Great stuff and I've been using it ever since, but like the advice about not getting in on your hands and arms, which is all true, don't get it on the garage floor either, unless you plan to look at it for the rest of your life. Toolbox job was 15 years ago and the drippings on the floor are still there, and the garage floor was dirty at the time!!! ou: Bill
